Change | 9b+ Sport route at Flatanger

More

• Change Log

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0uesTSgMys

Second ascent.

The third ever repeat of a 9b+ or harder (the rest being first ascents).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8AETvINyAk

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFsDEqBn8h0/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7DLZ0wAhwU

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg_hGbCj8uj/

Fourth ascent. 5 sessions.

I was really at my limit. Especially because I hadn't really worked out all sequences perfectly yet. I hadn't even managed to send either of the two sections separately. The route is incredibly pumpy and I was often really near to dropping off. I was in it for at least 45 minutes, perhaps an hour.

...

I'd also like to emphasize [sic] again what a visionary achievement it was for Adam [Ondra] to free this route 12 years ago. Don't forget, I also have the benefit of videos and all the beta, that helped me a lot. If, like Adam, you have no idea whether it will work in the first place, then a project like this can seem completely impossible in the beginning. His really was a really awesome ascent!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C--ypMjC7xA/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-climbs-change-9b-plus-flatanger-just-5-days.html

[3] https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-change-olympics/

[4]https://www.instagram.com/p/C_rCZ3jiaRi/

Fifth ascent. 15 sessions.

Being able to pass the boulder problem at the beginning from the ground for the first time and then climbing the 50 meter complete line was a physical and mental fight that I will never forget. I gave everything I had, my arms and body couldn’t do more, but in the end I managed to clip the chain 🥳 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_P2HuUt0yQ/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_aJupNNLfu/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_-M2iNtyDR/

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMnJydMmIVM