Jerry Moffatt

en.wikipedia.org

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18th March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[9] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4

[10] Photoshoot for DMM 1995 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu8uyrStQ6I/

[11] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0ixcvxW0xNrX07Hxwxw8fE?

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18th March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[9] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4

[10] Photoshoot for DMM 1995 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu8uyrStQ6I/

[11] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0ixcvxW0xNrX07Hxwxw8fE?

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 21:09 on 16 September 2022
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:07 on 21 July 2023
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 18:11 on 22 November 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Added at 20:02 on 25 February 2024
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 09:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Added at 09:05 on 15 May 2022
Added at 19:11 on 22 November 2021
Skytop Vandals (7c+)
Added at 13:06 on 28 June 2023
Zoolook (8a)
Added at 07:02 on 27 February 2024
White Wall (E5)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:09 on 04 September 2023
Ard Ay (8A+, FA)
Added at 11:12 on 15 December 2023
© Guy Holwill
To Bolt or Not to Be (8b+)
Added at 17:03 on 14 March 2024
© Peter Mathis
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 09:01 on 14 January 2021
The Phoenix (E7)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Evolution (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Le Minimum (8c)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Face (8a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:08 on 25 August 2021
Renegade Master (E8, FA)
Added at 07:11 on 01 November 2021
Ulysses' Bow (E6, FA)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Chouca (8a+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Thriller (7C+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Kingdom Come (E5)
Added at 18:02 on 25 February 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Super Imujin (E6)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 15:10 on 11 October 2021
La Bérézina (7C)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Added at 10:11 on 24 November 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Stone Love (8b+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Dominator (8A+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Ace (8B, FA)
Added at 13:09 on 26 September 2022

Ascents

79 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1980 White Wall E5 Lead | worked 1980
Inertia Reel Traverse 8A+ Boulder | worked 1980s
First ascent.
1981 Psyche 'n' Burn E6 Lead | worked 1981
1982 Little Plum 8a Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

The Prow 8a Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent. 1 session.
Rooster Booster 7c+ Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent.
Indecent Exposure 7c Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent.
The Storm 7b+ Lead | worked Feb 1982
First ascent.
1983 Zero E7 Lead | flash 1983
Third ascent.

Shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

Genocide E6 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Linden E6 Solo | onsight 1983
Impropa Opera 7C Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Slapstick 7C Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+ Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ Boulder | worked 1983
The Face 8a+ Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Masterclass 8a Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Ekel 7c+ Lead | worked 1st Jan 1983
Chasin' the Trane 7c Lead | worked 1983
Ulysses' Bow E6 Solo | worked 14th Apr 1983
First ascent.

Solo after top rope practice.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

Sole Power 7C Boulder | worked 2nd Jun 1983
First ascent.
Master's Wall E7 Lead | worked 14th Jul 1983
First ascent.

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Right Wall E5 Solo | worked 15th Jul 1983
Memory Lane E3 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Foil E3 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Left Wall E2 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Cemetry Gates E1 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Cenotaph Corner E1 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Oyster 8a Lead | worked Aug 1983
First ascent.
1984 Messiah E7 Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
The Phoenix E7 Lead | flash 1984
Super Imujin E6 Lead | flash 1984
Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked 1984

The first ascent in a day.

Le Bidule 8a+ Lead | worked 1984
Papy on Sight 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
Orange Sunshine 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Polpot 7c Lead | onsight 1984
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ Lead | flash 18th Mar 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Verbal Abuse E7 Lead | worked Aug 1984
First ascent.

Nobody else can hang those holds. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ Lead | worked Aug 1984
First ascent.

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

1985
1986
1987 Powerband 7C Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
Le Minimum 8c Lead | worked 1987
La Rage de Vivre 8b+ Lead | worked 1987
Second ascent?
Ghettoblaster 8b Lead | worked 1987
1988 Stone Love 8b+ Lead | worked 1988
Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant 8b+ Lead | worked 1988
Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked Mar 1988

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked May 1988
Third ascent?
Slingshot 7C+ Top Rope | worked Dec 1988
First ascent.

Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented.

1989 Superman 8B Boulder | worked 1989
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge issue 114, page 44

Jerry's Roof 7C Boulder | worked 1989
First ascent.
The Bastard 8b Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.
Zoolook 8a Lead | onsight Jun 1989
1990 Liquid Ambar 8c+ Lead | worked 30th Mar 1990
1991 Stick It 8A Boulder | worked 1991
First ascent.

The same day Jerry made the first ascent of The Force.

Thriller 7C+ Boulder | worked 1991
The Force 7C Boulder | worked 1991
First ascent.

The problem, like Thriller, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:

‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’

It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force.

...

Later that year, my old friend John Bachar went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1]

References

[1] Revelations (2010)

Les Mains Sales 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Zeke the Freak 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

1992 Punks in the Gym 8b+ Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
Serpentine 8a Lead | onsight 1992
1993 Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 1993
First ascent.

I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]

References

[1] Revelations (2010)

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

1994
1995 Renegade Master E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Progress (pre-hold break) 8c Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 13th May 1995
Sean's Roof 8A+ Lead | worked Aug 1995
First ascent.
1996 The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 1996
First ascent.
1997 Samson 8A Lead | worked 1997
First ascent.
1998
1999
2000
2001 The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

2002 Ard Ay 8A+ Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

Brutal Arête 7B Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge 119, page 71.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Liquid Ambar 8c+ Lead | worked 30th Mar 1990 8c
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 13th May 1995
Progress (pre-hold break) 8c Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Le Minimum 8c Lead | worked 1987
Stone Love 8b+ Lead | worked 1988
La Rage de Vivre 8b+ Lead | worked 1987
Second ascent?
Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant 8b+ Lead | worked 1988
Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked Mar 1988

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked May 1988
Third ascent?
Punks in the Gym 8b+ Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
The Bastard 8b Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.
Ghettoblaster 8b Lead | worked 1987
Les Mains Sales 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Zeke the Freak 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

The Face 8a+ Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ Lead | worked Aug 1984
First ascent.

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

Le Bidule 8a+ Lead | worked 1984
Chouca 8a+ Lead | worked
Little Plum 8a Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

Masterclass 8a Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Oyster 8a Lead | worked Aug 1983
First ascent.
The Prow 8a Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent. 1 session.
Zoolook 8a Lead | onsight Jun 1989
Serpentine 8a Lead | onsight 1992
Rooster Booster 7c+ Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

Papy on Sight 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
Orange Sunshine 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent.
Ekel 7c+ Lead | worked 1st Jan 1983
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ Lead | flash 18th Mar 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Skytop Vandals 7c+ Lead | flash
Indecent Exposure 7c Lead | worked 1982
Second ascent.
Chasin' the Trane 7c Lead | worked 1983
Polpot 7c Lead | onsight 1984
The Storm 7b+ Lead | worked Feb 1982
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Superman 8B Boulder | worked 1989
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge issue 114, page 44

The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

Inertia Reel Traverse 8A+ Boulder | worked 1980s
First ascent.
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 1993
First ascent.

I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]

References

[1] Revelations (2010)

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

Sean's Roof 8A+ Lead | worked Aug 1995
First ascent.
Ard Ay 8A+ Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

Stick It 8A Boulder | worked 1991
First ascent.

The same day Jerry made the first ascent of The Force.

The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 1996
First ascent.
Samson 8A Lead | worked 1997
First ascent.
Slingshot 7C+ Top Rope | worked Dec 1988
First ascent.

Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented.

Thriller 7C+ Boulder | worked 1991
Impropa Opera 7C Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Slapstick 7C Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Sole Power 7C Boulder | worked 2nd Jun 1983
First ascent.
Powerband 7C Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
Jerry's Roof 7C Boulder | worked 1989
First ascent.
The Force 7C Boulder | worked 1991
First ascent.

The problem, like Thriller, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:

‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’

It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force.

...

Later that year, my old friend John Bachar went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1]

References

[1] Revelations (2010)

Rock Atrocity 7C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
La Bérézina 7C Boulder | worked
Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+ Boulder | worked 1983
First ascent.
Brutal Arête 7B Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge 119, page 71.

Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked 1984

The first ascent in a day.

Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ Boulder | worked 1983
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Renegade Master E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Master's Wall E7 Lead | worked 14th Jul 1983
First ascent.

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Messiah E7 Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Verbal Abuse E7 Lead | worked Aug 1984
First ascent.

Nobody else can hang those holds. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Zero E7 Lead | flash 1983
Third ascent.

Shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

The Phoenix E7 Lead | flash 1984
Psyche 'n' Burn E6 Lead | worked 1981
Genocide E6 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Ulysses' Bow E6 Solo | worked 14th Apr 1983
First ascent.

Solo after top rope practice.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

Linden E6 Solo | onsight 1983
Super Imujin E6 Lead | flash 1984
White Wall E5 Lead | worked 1980
Right Wall E5 Solo | worked 15th Jul 1983
London Wall E5 Lead | flash

An early flash ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.

Kingdom Come E5 Lead | worked
Memory Lane E3 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Foil E3 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Left Wall E2 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Cemetry Gates E1 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Cenotaph Corner E1 Solo | repeat 15th Jul 1983
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade