Ben Moon
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | GB |
| Date of birth: | 13 June 1966 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8B+ |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a |
| Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 8a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash): | 8a |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E10 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Jerry Moffatt | |
| Malcolm Smith | |
| Social Media |
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Ben pushed the cutting edge of sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s as well as establishing hard boulder problems in the early 2000s. He made many notable ascents in the UK including Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, one of the earliest examples of a pure sport route in the UK (previously many routes were climbed in a sport style but relied on old aid gear. Ben equipped Statement with bolts specifically to free climb it).
1980s
Ben established or repeated many of the hardest sport routes in the world at the time, most notably in the UK and the France. Agincourt at Buoux, first climbed by Ben in 1989, was one of the hardest lines in the world at the time and still has a fierce reputation featuring extremely hard moves on tiny pockets.
1990s
in 1990 Ben established Hubble at Raven Tor, at the time the first 8c+ in the world but now considered to be 9a.
Around 1995 he put considerable effort in to what would become Northern Lights at Kilnsey but despite an extended campaign couldn't get it done. This marked a bit of a turning point where he started to focus more on bouldering.
2000s
In 2005 he established Voyager an 8B boulder in the Peak DIstrict, then almost exactly a year later Ben succeeded in climbing the low start Voyager SDS to give the peak district one of it's hardest problems to date and an enduring testpiece that took 9 years before seeing a second ascent.
Ben continues to climb hard. In 2015 he climbed Rainshadow for his second 9a, 25 years after making the first ascent of Hubble.
References
[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593
[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0
[3] The Real Thing
[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78
[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k
[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.
[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609
[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686
[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc
Podcasts
Pics + Vids
Rainshadow (9a)
Agincourt (8c, FA)
Statement of Youth (8a, FA)
Voyager SDS (8B+, FA)
Voyager SDS (8B+, FA)
Hubble (9a, FA)
Northern Lights (9a)
Agincourt (8c, FA)
Jerry's Traverse (7C+)
Pinch 2 (8A+)
Pump up the Stamina (8c+)
Hubble (9a, FA)
High Fidelity (8B)
Hubble (9a, FA)
Agincourt (8c, FA)
Ascents
41 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1982 | Hate | 6c+ (Top Rope) | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) | |
|
Ben's first english 6a, just two years later he'd make the first ascent of Statement of Youth! |
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| 1983 | ||||
| 1984 | Statement of Youth | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 25 Jun 1984 |
| 1985 | Chouca | 8a+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1985 (approx) | |
|
Third ascent. |
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| 1986 | La Rose et le Vampire | 8b (Lead) | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | |
|
Third ascent. |
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| Hot Fun Closing | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | |
| 1987 | Zeke the Freak | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 04 Aug 1987 |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043969785822 |
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| 1988 | ||||
| 1989 | Maginot Line | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1989 (approx) |
| Agincourt | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1989 (approx) | |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k @ 53mins https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/289577857775063 |
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| 1990 | Hubble | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 14 Jun 1990 |
|
The first 9a in the world. While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job. Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022 |
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| 1991 | Kleptomania | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jan 1991 (approx) | |
| Cry Freedom | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jun 1991 (approx) | ||
|
An early ascent. Used in the media at the time to extol the benefits of bouldering for climbing stamina routes! |
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| 1992 | Action Directe | 9a (Lead Did not finish) | 01 Apr 1992 (approx) | |
|
Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. Ben then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1] |
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| 1993 | Make it Funky | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | |
|
Third ascent. |
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| Sea of Tranquility | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | |
| Equilibrium | E10 (Top Rope) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | |
| 1994 | Superman SDS | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) |
| Pump up the Stamina | 8c+ (Boulder Did not finish) | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) | ||
|
Ben got close but never quite managed to finish it off. |
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| Pinch 2 | 8A+ (Boulder) | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) | ||
| 1995 | Bronx | 8c+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | |
|
Done in 1995, within 2 days of climbing Super Plafond |
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| Northern Lights | 9a (Lead Did not finish) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | ||
|
Ben has been trying the route again in recent years and has now had over 100 sessions on it. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/458296474236533 |
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| Le Super Plafond | 8c+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | ||
| 1996 | ||||
| 1997 | ||||
| 1998 | ||||
| 1999 | ||||
| 2000 | ||||
| 2001 | ||||
| 2002 | Cypher | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Mar 2002 (approx) |
|
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2002/03/slipstones_project_completed-3016 |
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| 2003 | ||||
| 2004 | ||||
| 2005 | Voyager | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 16 Nov 2005 |
| 2006 | Voyager SDS | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 15 Nov 2006 (approx) |
| 2007 | ||||
| 2008 | ||||
| 2009 | ||||
| 2010 | ||||
| 2011 | ||||
| 2012 | ||||
| 2013 | Mecca Extension | 8c (Lead) | 15 Oct 2013 | |
|
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| 2014 | ||||
| 2015 | Rainshadow | 9a (Lead) | 08 Jun 2015 | |
|
25 years after his first 9a, Hubble. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdKeEk6sSD0 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/ben_moon_on_rainshadow_9a_-_im_over_the_moon-69776 |
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| 2016 | ||||
| 2017 | ||||
| 2018 | Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 24 Nov 2018 | |
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqkgmd_AYsM/ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/11/evolution_8c+_by_ben_moon-71782 |
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| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hubble | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 14 Jun 1990 | 8c+ |
|
The first 9a in the world. While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job. Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022 |
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| Action Directe | 9a (Lead Did not finish) | 01 Apr 1992 (approx) | ||
|
Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. Ben then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1] |
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| Northern Lights | 9a (Lead Did not finish) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | ||
|
Ben has been trying the route again in recent years and has now had over 100 sessions on it. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/458296474236533 |
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| Rainshadow | 9a (Lead) | 08 Jun 2015 | ||
|
25 years after his first 9a, Hubble. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdKeEk6sSD0 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/ben_moon_on_rainshadow_9a_-_im_over_the_moon-69776 |
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| Sea of Tranquility | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | |
| Bronx | 8c+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | ||
|
Done in 1995, within 2 days of climbing Super Plafond |
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| Le Super Plafond | 8c+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | ||
| Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 24 Nov 2018 | ||
|
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqkgmd_AYsM/ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/11/evolution_8c+_by_ben_moon-71782 |
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| Liquid Ambar | 8c+ (Lead) | |||
|
Second ascent. Pre-1991. |
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| Maginot Line | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1989 (approx) | |
| Agincourt | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1989 (approx) | |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k @ 53mins https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/289577857775063 |
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| Cry Freedom | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jun 1991 (approx) | ||
|
An early ascent. Used in the media at the time to extol the benefits of bouldering for climbing stamina routes! |
||||
| Make it Funky | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent. |
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| Mecca Extension | 8c (Lead) | 15 Oct 2013 | ||
|
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| Le Minimum | 8c (Lead) | |||
|
An early ascent. |
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| Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis | 8b+ (Lead) | |||
|
In 2 days. Second ascent? |
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| La Rage de Vivre | 8b+ (Lead) | |||
|
An early repeat. |
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| Zeke the Freak | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 04 Aug 1987 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043969785822 |
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| La Rose et le Vampire | 8b (Lead) | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent. |
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| Chouca | 8a+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1985 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent. |
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| Statement of Youth | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 25 Jun 1984 | |
| Hot Fun Closing | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | |
| Kleptomania | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jan 1991 (approx) | ||
| The Dillusioned Glue Machine | 8a (Lead Flash) | |||
|
At the time one of the hardest flashes on peak district limestone. |
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| Hate | 6c+ (Top Rope) | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) | ||
|
Ben's first english 6a, just two years later he'd make the first ascent of Statement of Youth! |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Superman SDS | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) | |
| Voyager SDS | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 15 Nov 2006 (approx) | |
| Pilgrimage | 8B+ (Boulder Did not finish) | |||
|
Before Malcolm Smith made the first ascent Ben came close to doing it, falling off near the end. |
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| Cypher | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Mar 2002 (approx) | |
|
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2002/03/slipstones_project_completed-3016 |
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| Voyager | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 16 Nov 2005 | |
| The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | |||
|
Second or third ascent. |
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| High Fidelity | 8B (Boulder) | |||
|
Second ascent. |
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| Pinch 2 | 8A+ (Boulder) | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) | ||
| Karma | 8A+ (Boulder) | |||
| Dominator | 8A+ (Boulder) | |||
|
Second ascent. |
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| Walk on By | 7C+ (Boulder) | |||
| Jerry's Traverse | 7C+ (Boulder) | |||
| Ben's Roof | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
| Brad Pit | 7C (Boulder) | |||
|
With the toe on the rail method. |
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| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Equilibrium | E10 (Top Rope) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) |
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pump up the Stamina | 8c+ (Boulder Did not finish) | 01 Jan 1994 (approx) | ||
|
Ben got close but never quite managed to finish it off. |
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