Ben Moon

Instagram.com | UKClimbing.com | ifsc.results.info | en.wikipedia.org | moonclimbing.com

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 13th June 1966
Age: 58 years old
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Malcolm Smith
Contemporaries
Fred Nicole
Klem Loskot
Marc le Menestrel
Antoine Le Menestrel
Jean-Baptiste Tribout

Ben pushed the cutting edge of sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s as well as establishing hard boulder problems in the early 2000s. He made many notable ascents in the UK including Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, one of the earliest examples of a pure sport route in the UK (previously many routes were climbed in a sport style but relied on old aid gear. Ben equipped Statement with bolts specifically to free climb it).

1980s

Ben established or repeated many of the hardest sport routes in the world at the time, most notably in the UK and the France. Agincourt at Buoux, first climbed by Ben in 1989, was one of the hardest lines in the world at the time and still has a fierce reputation featuring extremely hard moves on tiny pockets.

1990s

in 1990 Ben established Hubble at Raven Tor, at the time the first 8c+ in the world but now considered to be 9a.

Around 1995 he put considerable effort in to what would become Northern Lights at Kilnsey but despite an extended campaign couldn't get it done. This marked a bit of a turning point where he started to focus more on bouldering.

2000s

In 2005 he established Voyager an 8B boulder in the Peak DIstrict, then almost exactly a year later Ben succeeded in climbing the low start Voyager SDS to give the peak district one of it's hardest problems to date and an enduring testpiece that took 9 years before seeing a second ascent.

Ben continues to climb hard. In 2015 he climbed Rainshadow for his second 9a, 25 years after making the first ascent of Hubble.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593

[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0

[3] The Real Thing

[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609

[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] A Sport Climbing Pioneer: The Story Of Ben Moon, Interview with Matt Groom, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfyU4KHvioM

[11] Interview with Adrian Berry March 2005 https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044659/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=460

[12] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7b64enKBPgbOPR9gK7T4nZ?

[15] On The Edge Issue 84, page 40

Contributors
70 contributions since 22nd December 2020.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 13th June 1966
Age: 58 years old
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Malcolm Smith
Contemporaries
Fred Nicole
Klem Loskot
Marc le Menestrel
Antoine Le Menestrel
Jean-Baptiste Tribout

Ben pushed the cutting edge of sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s as well as establishing hard boulder problems in the early 2000s. He made many notable ascents in the UK including Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, one of the earliest examples of a pure sport route in the UK (previously many routes were climbed in a sport style but relied on old aid gear. Ben equipped Statement with bolts specifically to free climb it).

1980s

Ben established or repeated many of the hardest sport routes in the world at the time, most notably in the UK and the France. Agincourt at Buoux, first climbed by Ben in 1989, was one of the hardest lines in the world at the time and still has a fierce reputation featuring extremely hard moves on tiny pockets.

1990s

in 1990 Ben established Hubble at Raven Tor, at the time the first 8c+ in the world but now considered to be 9a.

Around 1995 he put considerable effort in to what would become Northern Lights at Kilnsey but despite an extended campaign couldn't get it done. This marked a bit of a turning point where he started to focus more on bouldering.

2000s

In 2005 he established Voyager an 8B boulder in the Peak DIstrict, then almost exactly a year later Ben succeeded in climbing the low start Voyager SDS to give the peak district one of it's hardest problems to date and an enduring testpiece that took 9 years before seeing a second ascent.

Ben continues to climb hard. In 2015 he climbed Rainshadow for his second 9a, 25 years after making the first ascent of Hubble.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593

[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0

[3] The Real Thing

[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609

[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] A Sport Climbing Pioneer: The Story Of Ben Moon, Interview with Matt Groom, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfyU4KHvioM

[11] Interview with Adrian Berry March 2005 https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044659/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=460

[12] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7b64enKBPgbOPR9gK7T4nZ?

[15] On The Edge Issue 84, page 40

Contributors
70 contributions since 22nd December 2020.

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Ascents

59 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 14th Jun 1990 8c+
First ascent.

The first 9a in the world.

While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job.

Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981

[3] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022
Action Directe 9a Lead | did not finish Apr 1992

Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. He then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/ben-moon-british-rock-climbing-legend-interview.html
Northern Lights 9a Lead | did not finish After 1st Jan 1993
Over 100 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/458296474236533
Rainshadow 9a Lead | worked 8th Jun 2015
Around 19 sessions.

25 years after his first 9a, Hubble.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdKeEk6sSD0

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/ben_moon_on_rainshadow_9a_-_im_over_the_moon-69776
Big Bang 9a Lead | did not finish

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 100, page 55
Liquid Ambar 8c+ Lead | worked 1991
Second ascent. 5 sessions.
Sea of Tranquility 8c+ Lead | worked 1993
First ascent.
Bronx 8c+ Lead | worked 1995

Done in 1995, within 2 days of climbing Le Super Plafond.
Le Super Plafond 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 24th Nov 2018

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqkgmd_AYsM/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/11/evolution_8c+_by_ben_moon-71782
Le Minimum 8c Lead | worked Apr 1988

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.
Agincourt 8c Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k @ 53mins

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/289577857775063
Maginot Line 8c Lead | worked Nov 1989
First ascent.
Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1991

An early ascent. Used in the media at the time to extol the benefits of bouldering for climbing stamina routes!
Make it Funky 8c Lead | worked 1993
Third ascent.
Macumba Club 8c Lead | worked 1995
Mecca Extension 8c Lead | worked 15th Oct 2013

Red pointed Mecca Extension today, finally. 8c? maybe a soft one. Back to the main event on Thursday, Evolution.
La Rage de Vivre 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.
Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+ Lead | worked Between 1st Sep 1988 and 1st Dec 1989
Second ascent. 2 sessions.
Eugenics 8b+ Lead | worked 2020
Fifth Dimension 8b+ Lead | worked 20th Jun 2020
First ascent.
La Rose et le Vampire 8b Lead | worked 1986
Third ascent.
Zeke the Freak 8b Lead | worked 4th Aug 1987
First ascent.
Lockdown 8b Lead | worked 3rd Jun 2020
First ascent.
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ Lead | worked 1985
Chouca 8a+ Lead | worked 1985
Third ascent.
Chimes of Freedom 8a+ Lead | worked 1990

First re-ascent after the block had come off.
Menopausal Discharge 8a+ Lead | flash 1990s

Early 1990s.

References

[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.
Statement of Youth 8a Lead | worked 25th Jun 1984
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k
Hot Fun Closing 8a Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Kleptomania 8a Lead | onsight 1991
The Dillusioned Glue Machine 8a Lead | flash

At the time one of the hardest flashes on peak district limestone.
Hate 6c+ Top Rope | worked 1982

Ben's first english 6a, just two years later he'd make the first ascent of Statement of Youth!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWxoLMvIUCZ/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Superman SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
Voyager SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked Nov 2006
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp5iLBp601g
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | did not finish
Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | did not finish

Before Malcolm Smith made the first ascent Ben came close to doing it, falling off near the end.
Black Lung 8B Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent. 3 sessions.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/uaWvY1jMT6A?si=BXFKo-KQR0MCY6gC
Cypher 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2002
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2002/03/slipstones_project_completed-3016

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C37y0IGoDq6/
High Fidelity 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35565873
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Second ascent.

References

[1] Confirmed Ben made the second ascent via email correspondence, 30th November 2023.
Voyager 8B Boulder | worked 16th Nov 2005
First ascent.
Pinch 2 8A+ Boulder | worked 1994

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1057
8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3qPcrdIOMD/

[2] On The Edge Issue 103, page 10
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked Before 1st Jan 2001

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 99, page 73
Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZH5SvrIe6H/
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked
Second ascent.
The Thing 8A Boulder | worked 1989
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge issue 114, page 44
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 1998

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9
Diaphanous Sea 8A Boulder | flash 2000

References

[1] https://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/bolfa/February-2006.pdf
Ranieri's Reach 8A Boulder | worked 2004
First ascent.
Déviation 8A Boulder | worked

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 21
Walk on By 7C+ Boulder | worked Before 1st Jan 2000
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BRVFCw0gV67/
Jerry's Traverse 7C+ Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=173
Brad Pit 7C Boulder | worked 1997

With the toe on the rail method. [1]

It's hard, but not that hard. [1][2]

References

[1] Hard Grit

[2] On The Edge Issue 67, page 10
Ben's Roof 7C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Equilibrium E10 Top Rope | worked 1993
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Pump up the Stamina 8c+ Boulder | did not finish 1994

Ben got close but never quite managed to finish it off. [1]

References

[1] Confirmed via email with Ben

[2] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1728