The Ace | 8B Boulder problem at Stanage

UKClimbing.com

Low start to The Joker.

Alex Megos:

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Jerry Moffatt
Added at 13:09 on 26 September 2022
James Thornton
Added at 10:02 on 07 February 2021
Dave Mason
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
James Squire
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
Hamish Potokar
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
David Fitzgerald
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Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Orrin Coley
Added at 10:02 on 07 February 2021
Aidan Roberts
Added at 18:01 on 07 January 2022
James Pearson
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Added at 09:12 on 22 December 2021
James Pearson
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Added at 22:12 on 23 December 2021
Alex Waterhouse
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Added at 19:10 on 19 October 2022
Kieran Forrest
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Added at 07:11 on 03 November 2022
Sam Prior
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Added at 13:11 on 30 November 2022
Adam Ondra
Added at 14:03 on 06 March 2023
Adam Ondra
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Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2023
Jake Mason
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Added at 21:03 on 05 March 2023
Nathan Phillips
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Added at 06:04 on 04 April 2023
Leon Joyce
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Added at 22:10 on 25 October 2023
Alex Moore
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Added at 08:11 on 30 November 2023
Luca Martins
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Added at 16:01 on 03 January 2024
Tim Blake
Added at 22:01 on 15 January 2024

Ascents

32 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jerry Moffatt Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

Ben Moon Boulder | worked 2005
Second ascent.

References

[1] Confirmed Ben made the second ascent via email correspondence, 30th November 2023.

Malcolm Smith Boulder | worked 2005
Tyler Landman Boulder | worked Mar 2006
Fourth ascent.
Andy Earl Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2006
Michele Caminati Boulder | worked 12th Mar 2011
Stewart Watson Boulder | worked Dec 2011
Tom Newman Boulder | worked Oct 2012
James Thornton Boulder | worked 2015
Dave Mason Boulder | worked 2nd Feb 2015
James Squire Boulder | worked 11th Oct 2015
Hamish Potokar Boulder | worked 4th Dec 2015
Jan Hojer Boulder | worked Mar 2016
David Fitzgerald Boulder | worked 25th Mar 2017
Orrin Coley Boulder | worked 26th Jan 2018
Cailean Harker Boulder | worked 24th Feb 2018
Sam Blackwell Boulder | worked 7th Nov 2020
Matt Cousins Boulder | worked 26th Nov 2020
Aidan Roberts Boulder | worked 2021
James Pearson Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2021
Alex Waterhouse Boulder | worked Oct 2022
Kieran Forrest Boulder | worked Nov 2022
Sam Prior Boulder | worked 30th Nov 2022
Adam Ondra Boulder | flash 22nd Jan 2023

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

Jake Mason Boulder | worked Feb 2023
Nathan Phillips Boulder | worked 2nd Apr 2023
Leon Joyce Boulder | worked 25th Oct 2023
Alex Moore Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2023
Luca Martins Boulder | worked 29th Dec 2023
Tim Blake Boulder | worked 15th Jan 2024
Ryan Pasquill Boulder | worked
Tom Williams Boulder | worked