Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ Sport route

Originally given E7 7a. Early on the lip of a pocket on the route fell off making the route harder. Jerry Moffatt attempted to repair the hold but the repair quickly failed. Jerry re-climbed it with the pocket in the worse state. Around the same time Mark Pretty also applied some sika to the back of the pocket to try and reduce seepage.

One of the first sport routes in the UK to be climbed in 'red point' style, where the moves were practised before the final ascent. Prior to this routes were more typically climbed onsight or in yoyo style where pre-practicing the moves wasn't allowed.

See also Revelations.


Media

Antoine Le Menestrel
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Antoine Le Menestrel
Added at 21:05 on 24 May 2021

Ascents

6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Jerry Moffatt Lead (Worked) 01 Aug 1984 (approx)

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

Ron Fawcett Lead (Worked) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Antoine Le Menestrel Solo (Worked) 08 Aug 1985

An astonishing ascent of one of the hardest routes in the UK at the time.

Around 4 o'clock, an impulse tells me that now's the time, everything is there, near. I am at the foot of the route, my head is empty, my body filled with concentration. JB [Jibe Tribout] leaves me for the first boulder and will take pictures. The moves are linked in perfection; no hesitation, no unnecessary movement, no tension, just total concentration all the way to the top. I climbed into a state of grace as I had never before climbed. A small sling around the waist allows me to descend into the arms of JB. Once again, our friendship is deepened. I'm not aware of anything except that I am happy. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/antoine_le_menestrels_diary_soloing_revelations-12001

The ascent was recreated by Ned Feehally in Statement of Youth.

Ed Morgan Lead (Worked)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

John Welford Lead (Worked)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Martin Atkinson Lead (Worked)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192