Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ Sport route

See also Revelations.
🚫 This is currently unclimbable. Typically this is because the climb existed in some state but then changed significantly (e.g. by losing holds) and is now considered a different climb.

One of the first sport routes in the UK to be climbed in 'red point' style, where the moves were practised before the final ascent. Prior to this routes were more typically climbed onsight or in yoyo style where pre-practicing the moves wasn't allowed.

Originally given E7 7a. Early on the lip of a pocket on the route fell off making the route harder. Jerry Moffatt attempted to repair the hold but the repair quickly failed. Jerry re-climbed it with the pocket in the worse state. Around the same time Mark Pretty also applied some sika to the back of the pocket to try and reduce seepage.


Pics + Vids

Antoine Le Menestrel
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Antoine Le Menestrel
Added at 21:05 on 24 May 2021

Ascents

8 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jerry Moffatt Lead (Worked) Aug 1984

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

Ron Fawcett Lead (Worked) 1984
Ben Moon Lead (Worked) 1985
Alan Watts Lead (Worked) 1985

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

Antoine Le Menestrel Solo (Worked) 8th Aug 1985

An astonishing ascent of one of the hardest routes in the UK at the time. The ascent was recreated by Ned Feehally in Statement of Youth.

Around 4 o'clock, an impulse tells me that now's the time, everything is there, near. I am at the foot of the route, my head is empty, my body filled with concentration. JB [Jibe Tribout] leaves me for the first boulder and will take pictures. The moves are linked in perfection; no hesitation, no unnecessary movement, no tension, just total concentration all the way to the top. I climbed into a state of grace as I had never before climbed. A small sling around the waist allows me to descend into the arms of JB. Once again, our friendship is deepened. I'm not aware of anything except that I am happy. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/antoine_le_menestrels_diary_soloing_revelations-12001

John Welford Lead (Worked) Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Ed Morgan Lead (Worked) Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Martin Atkinson Lead (Worked) Before 1st Jan 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192