Verbal Abuse | E7/7c+ Trad climb at Raven Tor

Originally a trad route climbed on glued pegs. These have now been replaced with some bolts. Originally the bolts were going to replace the pegs on a like for like basis, but ended up in a spaced configuration to maintain a trad feel without it requiring double ropes to climb.

Kristian Clemmow:

It was Jerry [Moffatt] who was keen for his route to be re-equipped as no one seems to have done it in years. Initially Haydn drilled some holes for resin bolts directly next to the old pegs but never finished the job.

Verbal Abuse was climbed with twin ropes with a baby bouncer fall at the crux. This would have involved a traverse or a down climb to set up so I suggested to Jerry putting the bolts at 180° to the original peg placements but in a straight line so people could use a single rope. You'd still get a similar experience that he wanted to be maintained. There is nothing stopping you stick clipping the first and extending the draws if you wish. It's a compromise. No doubt someone will add a few more bolts it the future.

Contributors: remus


2 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jerry Moffatt Lead (Worked) Aug 1984
First ascent.

Nobody else can hang those holds. [1]


[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Dominic Lee Lead (Did not finish) 1982

Dom came close to making the first ascent but never got round to finishing it off. On his best attempt a hold broke off after he'd completed the hard climbing, but he was unable to regain the high point.

Bit of a regret that I didn’t finish this off. Around this time after mad max I lost interest and stopped climbing for a few years.