Wolfgang Güllich

en.wikipedia.org | wolfgangguellich.com
Also known as: WoGü

Quick Info

From: Germany 🇩🇪
Date of birth: 24th October 1960
Age: 31 years old
Date of death: 31st August 1992
Gender: Male
Height: 178 cm
Weight: 68 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Notable Partnerships
Kurt Albert
Jerry Moffatt
Ron Kauk
Norbert Bätz
Milan Sykora

A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing.

A sport climbing pioneer. Wolfgang established the first 8b with Kanal im Rücken, 8b+ with Punks in the Gym and 8c with Wallstreet as well as one of the first 8c+/9as with Action Directe.

References

[1] At Raven Tor in the 80s

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2698243753575116

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1465090346890469

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-wolfgang-gullich-one-of-greatest-climbers-of-all-times.html

[5] A collection of articles from http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/

[6] Hepp, T., Güllich, W. (1994). Wolfgang Güllich: Life in the Vertical : a Biography. Germany: Boulder Edition.

Contributors
103 contributions since 9th February 2021.
TdG
10 contributions since 29th August 2025.
6 contributions since 18th August 2025.

Quick Info

From: Germany 🇩🇪
Date of birth: 24th October 1960
Date of death: 31st August 1992
Age: 31 years old
Gender: Male
Height: 178 cm
Weight: 68 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Notable Partnerships
Kurt Albert
Jerry Moffatt
Ron Kauk
Norbert Bätz
Milan Sykora

A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing.

A sport climbing pioneer. Wolfgang established the first 8b with Kanal im Rücken, 8b+ with Punks in the Gym and 8c with Wallstreet as well as one of the first 8c+/9as with Action Directe.

References

[1] At Raven Tor in the 80s

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2698243753575116

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1465090346890469

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-wolfgang-gullich-one-of-greatest-climbers-of-all-times.html

[5] A collection of articles from http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/

[6] Hepp, T., Güllich, W. (1994). Wolfgang Güllich: Life in the Vertical : a Biography. Germany: Boulder Edition.

Contributors
103 contributions since 9th February 2021.
TdG
10 contributions since 29th August 2025.
6 contributions since 18th August 2025.

Podcasts

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

24 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Action Directe 9a Lead | worked 14th Sep 1991
First ascent. 11 sessions.

With this ascent Wolfgang became one of the first people in the world to climb a sport route graded 9a, though at the time he suggested a grade of UIAA XI which translates to 8c+/9a. Famously, he trained specifically for the route by doing single finger campusing.
Wallstreet 8c Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.

There’s a very difficult boulder on Wallstreet. I came across it and thought it could be possible. During the winter I went training in Nuremberg, and with the help of a professor of physical education I worked on specific muscles, in particular intramuscular coordination associated with reaction speed, in order to be able to do the boulder moves. [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-wallstreet/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/453337488065765

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/337696649629850

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2MZBmTret7Im6Uu77iP7pX?
Punks in the Gym 8b+ Lead | worked 9th Apr 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/937980766268099

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/929016537164522

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/442057275860453

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/44jSroCmJWJowHbQQrnpsJ?

[5] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

[6] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7aLk38OBDUEJXuLPTwMun6?
Kanal im Rücken 8b Lead | worked 24th Oct 1984
First ascent.

It is the motivation you have when you are standing there looking at a wall. You pick out the hardest section of rock and look for the route of least resistance in that section. You see only a few minuscule holes or edges and you know you can make it up there, you alone. Then you get excited about it, what the Americans call psyching up. You experience an explosion of energy totally from within. [1]

References

[1] Hepp, T., Güllich, W. (1994). Wolfgang Güllich: Life in the Vertical : a Biography. Germany: Boulder Edition.

[2] Mountain 101, page 17 /library/11122/mountain-101
Kamasutra 218 8b Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Dead Line 8b Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Ghettoblaster 8b Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
La Rose et le Vampire 8b Lead | worked

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/874337119299131
Slimline 8a+ Lead | worked 1991
First ascent.
The Face 8a+ Lead | worked
Second ascent.
Elektrischer Sturm in der Hölle 8a Lead | worked 1984
Papy on Sight 7c+ Lead | worked 1984

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/903835756349267
Hitchhike the Plane 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Weedkiller 7c+ Solo | worked

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiBZ6RpJbtU/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Grand Illusion E8 Lead | worked 1st Jul 1982
Second ascent. 7 sessions.

References

[1] Interview with Beth Wald for Climbing magazine, June 1987 /file/9eeda9ea-30d3-bd23-eab0-660b20dbc71c/wolfgang gullich interview by beth wald climbing magazine june 1987.pdf
Wisom of Body E8 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11
R.I.P E8 Lead | worked 27th Jun 1986
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.
The Phoenix E7 Lead 1982

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/44jSroCmJWJowHbQQrnpsJ?
The Master's Edge E7 Lead | did not finish 1990s

Wolfgang Gullich famously broke his back in a deliberate fall to test the gear in the half-height shot hole in the early 90's

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/millstone_-_quarried_grit-2791
Skytop Vandals E6 (approx) Lead | worked Oct 1984
Second ascent.

References

[1] Hepp, T., Güllich, W. (1994). Wolfgang Güllich: Life in the Vertical : a Biography. Germany: Boulder Edition.
Power, Corruption and Lies E6 Lead | worked Between 1st Feb 1985 and 1st Jan 1986
Third ascent.
Separate Reality E5 Solo | worked 1986

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/529040177162162

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/457933647606149

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/453681641364683

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/339232022809646

[5] https://www.instagram.com/p/C-9WTSTNYZH/
Edge Lane E5 Lead | worked

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/855983911134452
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade