Linden | E6 Trad climb at Curbar Edge

United Kingdom / England / Hope Valley

Chipped: Two divots were drilled for skyhooks on the first ascent.
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Ascents

5 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. 2 points of aid.

With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain Magazine:

This event must surely mark the lowest point in gritstone climbing for a very long time.

To which Drummond replied:

…Rome wasn't built in a day, nor Cenotaph ascended by Saint Joseph without a pin here and a pin there. And Quietus top-roped first. I'm still learning how to learn. Silly Myhill. It isn't your hill. The route is there for you too. Go on – open your legs – let's see what you can do. Balancing on those two impeccable skyhooks should keep you quiet. You might even learn to pray; and not prey.

Though in a later interview he repented:

I erred and was willing to err. If you are creating something, to a degree you have a right to define the way in which to create and I was willing to chip holds… I was different, in that I was wilful and was prepared to change the rock to suit me because I was at the cutting edge and had a right to blunt it a little. I was wrong.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] Mountain 28 (1973), page 15 /library/9632/mountain-28

[3] Mountain 31 (1974), page 39 /library/11050/mountain-31

First free ascent.

An early E6.

First onsight ascent

Nah don't agree with being pumpy or desperate!! Soloed this onsight in 1982 no big cigar but it hadn't even been led then!! [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/curbar_edge-21/linden-11110

Jerry Moffatt Solo | onsight 1983