John Bachar
Quick Info ˅
John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s and a member of the The Stonemasters. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!
Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.
Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.
John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.
References
[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802
[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017
[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/
[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline
[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/
[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber
[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012
Pics + Vids
Father Figure (7c+)
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Father Figure (7c+)
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Ascents
11 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1975 | Free Blast | E4 (Alternate Leads worked) | 1975 |
| First ascent. | |||
| The Naked Edge | E4 (Alternate Leads worked) | 1975 | |
|
Third ascent, some falls. |
|||
| Astroman | E5 (Lead worked) | May 1975 | |
| First ascent. | |||
| 1976 | |||
| 1977 | |||
| 1978 | UP 40 | E4 (Solo worked) | Jan 1978 |
| First ascent. | |||
| Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder worked) | 1978 | |
|
Second ascent. Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132 |
|||
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid worked) | 1978 | |
|
John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours. |
|||
| 1979 | |||
| 1980 | |||
| 1981 | Bachar-Yerian | E6 (Alternate Leads ground up) | 1981 |
| First ascent. | |||
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead worked) | 1981 | |
|
First ascent.
https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/ |
|||
| 1982 | |||
| 1983 | |||
| 1984 | |||
| 1985 | Father Figure | 7c+ (Solo worked) | 1985 |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709 |
|||
| 1986 | The Nose | 8b+ (Aid repeat) | 1986 |
|
Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft. |
|||
| Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid worked) | 1978 | |
|
John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours. |
|||
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid repeat) | 1986 | |
|
Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft. |
|||
| Father Figure | 7c+ (Solo worked) | 1985 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709 |
|||
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead worked) | 1981 | |
|
First ascent.
https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/ |
|||
| Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder worked) | 1978 | |
|
Second ascent. Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132 |
|||
| Bachar Cracker | 6B (Boulder) | ||
| First ascent. | |||
| Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bachar-Yerian | E6 (Alternate Leads ground up) | 1981 | |
| First ascent. | |||
| Astroman | E5 (Lead worked) | May 1975 | |
| First ascent. | |||
| Free Blast | E4 (Alternate Leads worked) | 1975 | |
| First ascent. | |||
| UP 40 | E4 (Solo worked) | Jan 1978 | |
| First ascent. | |||
| The Naked Edge | E4 (Alternate Leads worked) | 1975 | |
|
Third ascent, some falls. |
|||
| Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|