John Bachar

Also known as: Punk Monk

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 23rd March 1957
Date of death: 5th July 2009
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Notable Partnerships
John Long
Ron Kauk

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s and a member of the The Stonemasters. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/

[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber

[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 23rd March 1957
Date of death: 5th July 2009
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Notable Partnerships
John Long
Ron Kauk

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s and a member of the The Stonemasters. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/

[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber

[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:06 on 23 June 2023
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
UP 40 (E4, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:06 on 22 June 2023
Father Figure (7c+)
Added at 18:12 on 07 December 2021
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Father Figure (7c+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021

Ascents

11 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Ascent Date
1975 Free Blast E4 (Alternate Leads worked) 1975
First ascent.
The Naked Edge E4 (Alternate Leads worked) 1975

Third ascent, some falls.

Astroman E5 (Lead worked) May 1975
First ascent.
1976
1977
1978 UP 40 E4 (Solo worked) Jan 1978
First ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CKcQNG_jwHX/

Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder worked) 1978

Second ascent.

Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132

The Nose 8b+ (Aid worked) 1978

John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours.

1979
1980
1981 Bachar-Yerian E6 (Alternate Leads ground up) 1981
First ascent.
Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead worked) 1981
First ascent.

https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

1982
1983
1984
1985 Father Figure 7c+ (Solo worked) 1985

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709

1986 The Nose 8b+ (Aid repeat) 1986

Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft.

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Nose 8b+ (Aid worked) 1978

John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours.

The Nose 8b+ (Aid repeat) 1986

Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft.

Father Figure 7c+ (Solo worked) 1985

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709

Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead worked) 1981
First ascent.

https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder worked) 1978

Second ascent.

Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132

Bachar Cracker 6B (Boulder)
First ascent.
Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bachar-Yerian E6 (Alternate Leads ground up) 1981
First ascent.
Astroman E5 (Lead worked) May 1975
First ascent.
Free Blast E4 (Alternate Leads worked) 1975
First ascent.
UP 40 E4 (Solo worked) Jan 1978
First ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CKcQNG_jwHX/

The Naked Edge E4 (Alternate Leads worked) 1975

Third ascent, some falls.

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade