John Bachar

en.wikipedia.org
Also known as: Punk Monk

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 23rd March 1957
Age: 52 years old
Date of death: 5th July 2009
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Notable Partnerships
John Long
Ron Kauk

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s and a member of the The Stonemasters. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/

[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber

[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012

[8] https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climbing-legends-john-bachar/

Contributors
35 contributions since 26th February 2021.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 23rd March 1957
Date of death: 5th July 2009
Age: 52 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Notable Partnerships
John Long
Ron Kauk

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s and a member of the The Stonemasters. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/

[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber

[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012

[8] https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climbing-legends-john-bachar/

Contributors
35 contributions since 26th February 2021.

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

12 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Nose 8b+ Aid | worked 1978
15hrs 00mins.

A speed record.
The Nose 8b+ Aid | repeat 1986
With Peter Croft. 10hrs 05mins.

Another speed record.
Father Figure 7c+ Solo | worked 1985

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709
Chasin' the Trane 7c Lead | worked 1981
First ascent.

References

[1] https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | worked 1978
Second ascent.

Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132

[3] https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climbing-legends-john-bachar/
Bachar Cracker 6B Boulder
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bachar-Yerian E6 Alternate Leads | ground up 1981
First ascent.

Reaching the top was like waking out of a big dream in the middle of the afternoon, blinking in the unexpectedness of continued daylight. Dave [Yerian] looked as disoriented as I felt. In a self-deprecating way, we decided to call our line the Bachar-Yerian, an echo of grander routes such as the Chouinard-Herbert or the Steck-Salathé. We’d tried, in our own fashion, to be true to their spirit. In the end, I’d only placed thirteen bolts on the whole route: four from hooks, and the rest from no-hands stances including six for belays. Some people might criticize my use of aid, but I’d never intended to call it a free route–just to keep it as free as I could. Over and over I’d felt my whole life come down to one small move, one crystal–and within those tiny spaces and moments, I’d tried to get a measure of myself. Dave, meanwhile, watching me struggle, had stayed poised at each moment to protect me, despite the exposure that whirled about him and the weariness of his long-sustained fear. [1]

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/first-ascent/bachar-yerian/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7ix0YBwiTjj7ilO83xpGez?
Astroman E5 Lead | worked May 1975
First ascent. With John Long and Ron Kauk.
The Naked Edge E4 Alternate Leads | worked 1975
Third ascent.

Some falls.
Free Blast E4 Alternate Leads | worked 1975
First ascent.
UP 40 E4 Solo | worked Jan 1978
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CKcQNG_jwHX/
The Moratorium E4 Solo | worked 1980

In John's words, he was

completely hollowed out, I just got away with some bullshit. [1]

References

[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climbing-legends-john-bachar/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade