John Bachar
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | US |
| Date of birth: | 23 March 1957 |
| Date of death: | 05 July 2009 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 7B |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8b+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E5 |
John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!
Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.
Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.
John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.
References
[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802
[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017
[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/
[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline
Pics + Vids
Father Figure (7c+)
Father Figure (7c+)
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Ascents
9 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1975 | The Naked Edge | E4 (Alternate Leads) | 01 Jan 1975 (approx) | |
|
Third ascent, some falls. |
||||
| Free Blast | E4 (Alternate Leads) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1975 (approx) | |
| Astroman | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 May 1975 (approx) | |
| 1976 | ||||
| 1977 | ||||
| 1978 | Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder) | 01 Jan 1978 (approx) | |
|
Second ascent. Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132 |
||||
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid) | 01 Jan 1978 (approx) | ||
|
John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours. |
||||
| 1979 | ||||
| 1980 | ||||
| 1981 | Bachar-Yerian | E6 (Alternate Leads Ground up) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1981 (approx) |
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1981 (approx) | |
|
https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/ |
||||
| 1982 | ||||
| 1983 | ||||
| 1984 | ||||
| 1985 | Father Figure | 7c+ (Solo) | 01 Jan 1985 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709 |
||||
| 1986 | The Nose | 8b+ (Aid) | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | |
|
Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft. |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid) | 01 Jan 1978 (approx) | ||
|
John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours. |
||||
| The Nose | 8b+ (Aid) | 01 Jan 1986 (approx) | ||
|
Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft. |
||||
| Father Figure | 7c+ (Solo) | 01 Jan 1985 (approx) | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709 |
||||
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1981 (approx) | |
|
https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/ |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder) | 01 Jan 1978 (approx) | ||
|
Second ascent. Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132 |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bachar-Yerian | E6 (Alternate Leads Ground up) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1981 (approx) | |
| Astroman | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 May 1975 (approx) | |
| Free Blast | E4 (Alternate Leads) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1975 (approx) | |
| The Naked Edge | E4 (Alternate Leads) | 01 Jan 1975 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent, some falls. |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|