John Bachar


Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 23 March 1957
Date of death: 05 July 2009
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 23 March 1957
Date of death: 05 July 2009
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s. He was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline


Pics + Vids

Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Added at 09:10 on 30 October 2021
Father Figure (7c+)
Added at 18:12 on 07 December 2021
Father Figure (7c+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021

Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1975 The Naked Edge E4 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)

Third ascent, some falls.

Free Blast E4 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
Astroman E5 (Lead) 01 May 1975 (approx)
1976
1977
1978 Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)

Second ascent.

Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132

The Nose 8b+ (Aid) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)

John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours.

1979
1980
1981 Bachar-Yerian E6 (Alternate Leads Ground up) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)
Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)

https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

1982
1983
1984
1985 Father Figure 7c+ (Solo) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709

1986 The Nose 8b+ (Aid) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Nose 8b+ (Aid) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)

John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours.

The Nose 8b+ (Aid) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft.

Father Figure 7c+ (Solo) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/957997997599709

Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)

https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)

Second ascent.

Bachar drew the original and iconic lightning bolt on the problem while working it with Ron Kauk and John Yabolinski in 1978.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1512130898853080

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/886783774721132

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bachar-Yerian E6 (Alternate Leads Ground up) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)
Astroman E5 (Lead) 01 May 1975 (approx)
Free Blast E4 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
The Naked Edge E4 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)

Third ascent, some falls.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade