To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ Sport route at Smith Rock

United States / Oregon / Deschutes County

Bolted by Alan Watts.

Among the most famous routes in the world, this wall of relentless edges played a seminal role in the consolidation of Sport Climbing being the first 5.14a in North America.

Contributors
remus
53 contributions since 22nd November 2023.
LeodF
2 contributions since 31st January 2025.
Ted Kingsnorth
1 contribution since 5th November 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

30 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.
Scott Franklin Lead | worked May 1987
Second ascent.
Jerry Moffatt Lead | worked May 1988
Third ascent?
Ron Kauk Lead | worked Jul 1988
Around 3 sessions.
Steve Schneider Lead | worked Apr 1992
Lynn Hill Lead | worked 1998
First female ascent.
Tommy Caldwell Lead | worked Apr 1998
Chris Sharma Lead | worked Apr 1998
Dave Graham Lead | worked 1st Apr 2000
1 session. Second go.

Tantalisingly close to the onsight!

I should have onsighted it but I fell off low down before I'd got in to my rhythm and then got back on and climbed straight to the top. Fifteen minutes later I redpointed the 100-move monster without any difficulty. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 103, page 42

Jonathan Siegrist Lead | worked 14th May 2010
Ryan Palo Lead | worked 29th Jan 2011

Aged 13.

Peder Groseth Lead | worked 29th Dec 2013

3rd British ascent after Jerry Moffatt and Steve McClure.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/92349114

Sonnie Trotter Lead | worked Nov 2018