Dominator | 8A+ Boulder problem

First ascent.

I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]

References

[1] Revelations (2010)

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 109, page 12

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 99, page 73

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NITbCI3yBc

Second ascent.

In June!