Dominator

8A+ Boulder problem

Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence.

Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.

Media

Jerry Moffatt
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Carlo Traversi
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:05 on 06 May 2021
Katie Lamb
Added at 06:05 on 06 May 2021

Ascents

4 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Jerry Moffatt Boulder (Worked) 01 Jan 1993 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

Carlo Traversi Boulder (Worked) 01 Jan 2020 (approx)

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

Katie Lamb Boulder (Worked) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NITbCI3yBc

Fred Nicole Boulder (Worked)

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.