Malcolm Smith


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Features in Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard, and Stone Love.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Features in Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard, and Stone Love.


Pics + Vids

Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Monk Life (8B+, FA)
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
Powerband (7C)
Added at 10:01 on 07 January 2021
Firefight (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1992 Hubble 9a (Lead) 1st January 1992 (approx)
1993 Cry Freedom 8c (Lead) 1st June 1993 (approx)

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

1994 Transcendence E9 (Lead) 1st January 1994 (approx)
1995 Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 1st January 1995 (approx)

Second ascent.

1996
1997
1998
1999
2000 Transform 8c (Lead) 1st January 2000 (approx)
2001 8 Ball 8A+ (Boulder) 1st November 2001 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801

The Joker 8A (Boulder) 20th December 2001

6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque,

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 20th December 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

2002 Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2002 (approx)
2003 Leviathan 8B+ (Boulder) 15th June 2003
Monk Life 8B+ (Boulder) 1st October 2003 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/6245846

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

2004 Director's Cut 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2004 (approx)
Pilgrimage 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2004 (approx)
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 9th February 2004 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118

2005 Supersize Me 8B (Boulder) 1st June 2005 (approx)
2006
2007 True North 8c (Lead) 1st June 2007 (approx)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0

Metalcore 8c+ (Lead) 2nd June 2007 (approx)

2nd ascent.

The Smiddy 8b+ (Lead) 1st August 2007 (approx)
Blackout 8b (Lead) 19th September 2007
2008 Unjustified 8b+ (Lead) 1st June 2008 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629

Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 1st September 2008 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/5098601

2009
2010 Firefight 8B (Boulder) 1st April 2010 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/11089789

https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html

Pas de Deux 8a+ (Lead) 18th May 2010

1st redpoint http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8

Blood Diamond 8c+ (Lead) 16th June 2010
Hunger 9a (Lead) 7th July 2010

Scotland's first 9a.

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hunger 9a (Lead) 7th July 2010

Scotland's first 9a.

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

Hubble 9a (Lead) 1st January 1992 (approx)
Blood Diamond 8c+ (Lead) 16th June 2010
Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 1st January 1995 (approx)

Second ascent.

Metalcore 8c+ (Lead) 2nd June 2007 (approx)

2nd ascent.

Transform 8c (Lead) 1st January 2000 (approx)
Cry Freedom 8c (Lead) 1st June 1993 (approx)

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

True North 8c (Lead) 1st June 2007 (approx)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0

The Smiddy 8b+ (Lead) 1st August 2007 (approx)
Unjustified 8b+ (Lead) 1st June 2008 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629

Dr Crimp 8b+ (Lead)
Blackout 8b (Lead) 19th September 2007
Pas de Deux 8a+ (Lead) 18th May 2010

1st redpoint http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8

Energy Vampire 8a+ (Lead Flash)

Early 90s.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leviathan 8B+ (Boulder) 15th June 2003
Monk Life 8B+ (Boulder) 1st October 2003 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/6245846

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

Pilgrimage 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2004 (approx) 8B+
Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 1st September 2008 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/5098601

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 9th February 2004 (approx) 8C

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118

Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2002 (approx)
Supersize Me 8B (Boulder) 1st June 2005 (approx)
Firefight 8B (Boulder) 1st April 2010 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/11089789

https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html

Director's Cut 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2004 (approx)
The Ace 8B (Boulder)

Second or third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

8 Ball 8A+ (Boulder) 1st November 2001 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801

Pinch 2 8A+ (Boulder)

In a day.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6362.msg89768.html#msg89768

Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 20th December 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

The Joker 8A (Boulder) 20th December 2001

6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque,

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

Muttertag 8A (Boulder)

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

Powerband 7C (Boulder)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Transcendence E9 (Lead) 1st January 1994 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade