Malcolm Smith

Quick Info ˅

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked):	9a
Hardest Sport (Flash):	8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

Quick Info

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked):	9a
Hardest Sport (Flash):	8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

Lists

Pics + Vids

Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021

Added at 21:01 on 16 January 2023

Monk Life (8B+, FA)

Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020

Powerband (7C)

Added at 10:01 on 07 January 2021

Firefight (8B, FA)

Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021

Magnetic Fields (8b)

View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:01 on 22 January 2023

Hunger (9a, FA)

Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/File_IMG01217-...

Hunger (9a, FA)

Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=30...

Pas de Deux (8a+)

Added at 08:04 on 13 April 2022

Gut Buster (8B+, FA)

Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

Ascents

34 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.

Year	Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date
1991	Magnetic Fields	8b (Lead)		4th May 1991
1991	Magnetic Fields	Fourth redpoint of the day. https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/
1992	Hubble	9a (Lead)		1992
1993	Cry Freedom	8c (Lead)		June 1993
1993	Cry Freedom	An early, fast repeat (date not exact)
1994	Leviathan	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	1994
1994	Transcendence	E9 (Lead)	✓	1994
1995	Evolution	8c+ (Lead)		1995
1995	Evolution	Second ascent.
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000	Transform	8c (Lead)	✓	2000
2001	8 Ball	8A+ (Boulder)		November 2001
	8 Ball	Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801
	Careless Torque	8A (Boulder)		20th December 2001
	Careless Torque	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420
	The Joker	8A (Boulder)		20th December 2001
	The Joker	6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque, https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119
2002	Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start)	8B (Boulder)	✓	2002
2003	Monk Life	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	October 2003
2003	Monk Life	https://vimeo.com/6245846 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503
2004	Mithril	8B (Boulder)		2004
	Pilgrimage	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	2004
	Director's Cut	8B (Boulder)		2004
	Dreamtime (pre break)	8B+ (Boulder)		February 2004
	Dreamtime (pre break)	https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118
2005	Supersize Me	8B (Boulder)	✓	June 2005
2006
2007	Metalcore	8c+ (Lead)		June 2007
	Metalcore	2nd ascent.
	True North	8c (Lead)		June 2007
	True North	https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0
	The Smiddy	8b+ (Lead)	✓	August 2007
	Blackout	8b (Lead)	✓	19th September 2007
2008	Unjustified	8b+ (Lead)		June 2008
	Unjustified	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629
	Gut Buster	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	September 2008
	Gut Buster	https://vimeo.com/5098601
2009
2010	Firefight	8B (Boulder)	✓	April 2010
	Firefight	https://vimeo.com/11089789 https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html
	Pas de Deux	8a+ (Lead)		18th May 2010
	Pas de Deux	1st redpoint. http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8
	Blood Diamond	8c+ (Lead)	✓	16th June 2010
	Hunger	9a (Lead)	✓	7th July 2010
	Hunger	Scotland's first 9a. https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date
Hunger	9a (Lead)	✓	7th July 2010
Hunger	Scotland's first 9a. https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger
Hubble	9a (Lead)		1992
Blood Diamond	8c+ (Lead)	✓	16th June 2010
Evolution	8c+ (Lead)		1995
Evolution	Second ascent.
Metalcore	8c+ (Lead)		June 2007
Metalcore	2nd ascent.
Transform	8c (Lead)	✓	2000
Cry Freedom	8c (Lead)		June 1993
Cry Freedom	An early, fast repeat (date not exact)
True North	8c (Lead)		June 2007
True North	https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0
The Smiddy	8b+ (Lead)	✓	August 2007
Unjustified	8b+ (Lead)		June 2008
Unjustified	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629
Dr Crimp	8b+ (Lead)
Blackout	8b (Lead)	✓	19th September 2007
Magnetic Fields	8b (Lead)		4th May 1991
Magnetic Fields	Fourth redpoint of the day. https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/
Pas de Deux	8a+ (Lead)		18th May 2010
Pas de Deux	1st redpoint. http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8
Energy Vampire	8a+ (Lead Flash)
Energy Vampire	Early 90s.

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Leviathan	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	1994
Monk Life	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	October 2003
Monk Life	https://vimeo.com/6245846 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503
Pilgrimage	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	2004	9a
Gut Buster	8B+ (Boulder)	✓	September 2008
Gut Buster	https://vimeo.com/5098601
Dreamtime (pre break)	8B+ (Boulder)		February 2004	8C
Dreamtime (pre break)	https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start)	8B (Boulder)	✓	2002
Supersize Me	8B (Boulder)	✓	June 2005
Firefight	8B (Boulder)	✓	April 2010
Firefight	https://vimeo.com/11089789 https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html
Mithril	8B (Boulder)		2004
Director's Cut	8B (Boulder)		2004
The Ace	8B (Boulder)
The Ace	Second or third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119
8 Ball	8A+ (Boulder)		November 2001
8 Ball	Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801
Pinch 2	8A+ (Boulder)
Pinch 2	In a day. https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6362.msg89768.html#msg89768
Halfway House	8A (Boulder)	✓
The Joker	8A (Boulder)		20th December 2001
The Joker	6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque, https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119
Careless Torque	8A (Boulder)		20th December 2001
Careless Torque	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420
Muttertag	8A (Boulder)
Muttertag	Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src
Powerband	7C (Boulder)
Powerband	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Transcendence	E9 (Lead)	✓	1994

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade