Malcolm Smith


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

As well as his hard bouldering exploits he also repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors
176 contributions since 7th January 2021.
21 contributions since 20th December 2024.
TdG
14 contributions since 4th September 2025.
1 contribution since 7th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

As well as his hard bouldering exploits he also repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors
176 contributions since 7th January 2021.
21 contributions since 20th December 2024.
TdG
14 contributions since 4th September 2025.
1 contribution since 7th July 2025.

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Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

51 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent. Belayed by Ron Fawcett.
First ascent.
Progress 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked Between 13th May 1995 and 1st Jan 1996
Second ascent.

2nd ascent.

Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.

An early, fast repeat.

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Dr Crimp 8b+ Lead | worked

Fourth redpoint of the day.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

Steall Appeal 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1997
First ascent.
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.

Early 90s.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 136 (1990), page 15 /library/11325/mountain-136

References

[1] Mountain Issue 136 (1990), page 17 /library/11325/mountain-136

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5098601

Perky Pinky
Indoor
8B Boulder | worked 1990s 8B
First ascent.
Milk It
Indoor
8B Boulder | worked 1990s
First ascent.

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

First ascent.
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
Third ascent.
Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
First ascent.
Second ascent. 1 session.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 108, page 60.

Second ascent.

Chris Sharma was close to getting the third ascent in the same session, but the team were arrested for parking in the wrong place before he was able to seal the deal. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 112, page 16.

Third ascent.
Director's Cut 8A+ Boulder | worked 2004
Pongo SDS 8A Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

Halfway House 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Perky Pinky 8B Boulder | worked 1990s 8B
First ascent.
Milk It 8B Boulder | worked 1990s
First ascent.

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence