Nationality: | GB |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8B+ |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a |
Hardest Sport (Flash): | 8a+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E9 |
Notable Partnerships | |
Jerry Moffatt | |
Ben Moon | |
Social Media |
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An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.
He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]
[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f
[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard
[3] Stone Love
34 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
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1991 | Magnetic Fields | 8b (Lead) | 4th May 1991 | |
Fourth redpoint of the day. |
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1992 | Hubble | 9a (Lead) | 1992 | |
1993 | Cry Freedom | 8c (Lead) | June 1993 | |
An early, fast repeat (date not exact) |
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1994 | Leviathan | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1994 |
Transcendence | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 1994 | |
1995 | Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 1995 | |
Second ascent. |
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1996 | ||||
1997 | ||||
1998 | ||||
1999 | ||||
2000 | Transform | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 2000 |
2001 | 8 Ball | 8A+ (Boulder) | November 2001 | |
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801 |
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Careless Torque | 8A (Boulder) | 20th December 2001 | ||
The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | 20th December 2001 | ||
6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque, |
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2002 | Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2002 |
2003 | Monk Life | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | October 2003 |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503 |
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2004 | Mithril | 8B (Boulder) | 2004 | |
Pilgrimage | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Director's Cut | 8B (Boulder) | 2004 | ||
Dreamtime (pre break) | 8B+ (Boulder) | February 2004 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118 |
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2005 | Supersize Me | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | June 2005 |
2006 | ||||
2007 | Metalcore | 8c+ (Lead) | June 2007 | |
2nd ascent. |
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True North | 8c (Lead) | June 2007 | ||
The Smiddy | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 2007 | |
Blackout | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 19th September 2007 | |
2008 | Unjustified | 8b+ (Lead) | June 2008 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629 |
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Gut Buster | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | September 2008 | |
2009 | ||||
2010 | Firefight | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | April 2010 |
https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html |
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Pas de Deux | 8a+ (Lead) | 18th May 2010 | ||
1st redpoint. http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html |
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Blood Diamond | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 16th June 2010 | |
Hunger | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 7th July 2010 | |
Scotland's first 9a. https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Hunger | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 7th July 2010 | |
Scotland's first 9a. https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger |
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Hubble | 9a (Lead) | 1992 | ||
Blood Diamond | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 16th June 2010 | |
Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 1995 | ||
Second ascent. |
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Metalcore | 8c+ (Lead) | June 2007 | ||
2nd ascent. |
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Transform | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 2000 | |
Cry Freedom | 8c (Lead) | June 1993 | ||
An early, fast repeat (date not exact) |
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True North | 8c (Lead) | June 2007 | ||
The Smiddy | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 2007 | |
Unjustified | 8b+ (Lead) | June 2008 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629 |
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Dr Crimp | 8b+ (Lead) | |||
Blackout | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 19th September 2007 | |
Magnetic Fields | 8b (Lead) | 4th May 1991 | ||
Fourth redpoint of the day. |
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Pas de Deux | 8a+ (Lead) | 18th May 2010 | ||
1st redpoint. http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html |
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Energy Vampire | 8a+ (Lead Flash) | |||
Early 90s. |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Leviathan | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1994 | |
Monk Life | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | October 2003 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503 |
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Pilgrimage | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 2004 | 9a |
Gut Buster | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | September 2008 | |
Dreamtime (pre break) | 8B+ (Boulder) | February 2004 | 8C | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118 |
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Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2002 | |
Supersize Me | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | June 2005 | |
Firefight | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | April 2010 | |
https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html |
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Mithril | 8B (Boulder) | 2004 | ||
Director's Cut | 8B (Boulder) | 2004 | ||
The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | |||
Second or third ascent. |
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8 Ball | 8A+ (Boulder) | November 2001 | ||
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801 |
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Pinch 2 | 8A+ (Boulder) | |||
In a day. https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6362.msg89768.html#msg89768 |
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Halfway House | 8A (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | 20th December 2001 | ||
6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque, |
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Careless Torque | 8A (Boulder) | 20th December 2001 | ||
Muttertag | 8A (Boulder) | |||
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Powerband | 7C (Boulder) | |||
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Transcendence | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 1994 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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