Malcolm Smith

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Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

As well as his hard bouldering exploits he also repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors
44 contributions since 7th January 2021.
6 contributions since 20th December 2024.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

As well as his hard bouldering exploits he also repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors
44 contributions since 7th January 2021.
6 contributions since 20th December 2024.

Lists

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

48 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
Northern Lights 9a Lead | did not finish Before 1st Jan 2000

References

[1] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith
Hunger 9a Lead | worked 7th Jul 2010
First ascent.

Scotland's first 9a.

References

[1] https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger
Progress 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked Between 13th May 1995 and 1st Jan 1996
Second ascent.
Metalcore 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2007

2nd ascent.
Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.
Bat Route 8c Lead | worked 1990s

An early, fast repeat.
Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1993

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)
Transform 8c Lead | worked 1999
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16
True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2007

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0
The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2008

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629
Dr Crimp 8b+ Lead | worked
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked 4th May 1991

Fourth redpoint of the day.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.
Pas de Deux 8a+ Lead | worked 18th May 2010

1st redpoint.

http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8
Energy Vampire 8a+ Lead | flash

Early 90s.
Fated Path 7c+ Lead | worked 1990
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 2003
First ascent.

At the time I didn't have to do any special training for it, it was well within my level. [3]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6245846

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

[3] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith
Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | worked 2004 9a
First ascent.
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2004 8C

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118
Gut Buster 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5098601
Perky Pinky
Indoor 		8B Boulder | worked 1990s 8B
First ascent.
Milk It
Indoor 		8B Boulder | worked 1990s
First ascent.
Perky Pinky
Indoor 		8B Boulder | worked Jun 1999

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Third ascent.

References

[1]https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119
Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
Firefight 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2010
First ascent.

https://vimeo.com/11089789

https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html
Working Class Sit Start 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 1999

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16
Frank's Wild Years 8A+ Boulder | worked Mar 2000

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 108, page 60.
Turn That Frown Upside Down 8A+ Boulder | worked 2001
Second ascent.

Chris Sharma was close to getting the third ascent in the same session, but the team were arrested for parking in the wrong place before he was able to seal the deal. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 112, page 16.
8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2001
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801
Director's Cut 8A+ Boulder | worked 2004
Pinch 2 8A+ Boulder | worked
1 session.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6362.msg89768.html#msg89768
Pongo SDS 8A Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
Duel 8A Boulder | worked 1999

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001

References

[1] 6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque,

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119
Bully 8A Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://youtu.be/ngQbNJeCVls?t=101
Muttertag 8A Boulder | worked

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src
Halfway House 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Powerband 7C Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Perky Pinky 8B Boulder | worked 1990s 8B
First ascent.
Milk It 8B Boulder | worked 1990s
First ascent.
Perky Pinky 8B Boulder | worked Jun 1999

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence