Malcolm Smith

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s.

Features in Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard, and Stone Love.


Malcolm Smith
Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021
Malcolm Smith
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Monk Life (8B+, FA)
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
Powerband (7C)
Added at 10:01 on 07 January 2021
Firefight (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021


17 recorded ascents.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Hunger 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2010 (approx)

Scotland's first 9a.

Hubble 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 1992 (approx)
Transform 8c (Lead) 01 Jan 2000 (approx)
Dr Crimp 8b+ (Lead)
Energy Vampire 8a+ (Lead Flash)

Early 90s.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Leviathan 8B+ (Boulder) 15 Jun 2003
Monk Life 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Oct 2003 (approx)

Pilgrimage 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2004 (approx)
Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Sep 2008 (approx)
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 09 Feb 2004 (approx)

Malc suggested 8C.

Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Supersize Me 8B (Boulder) 01 Jun 2005 (approx)
Firefight 8B (Boulder) 01 Apr 2010 (approx)

Director's Cut 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2004 (approx)
Muttertag 8A (Boulder)

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

Powerband 7C (Boulder)

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Transcendence E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 1994 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date