Raven Tor

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An epic ascent completed over several weeks involving some huge falls and a lot of loose rock.

References

[1] First Ascents supplement to Peak Limestone North https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

First free ascent. Originally a bold E6 6b.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Originally climbed as a trad route at ~E5/6. Retro bolted in 2009.

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

Climbed in three pitches.

A free ascent covering about 50% of the line of The Prow Routes, approaching from The Prowler and incorporating a new middle section to the right of the original aid route.

The ascent of Britain’s top super route was spread over three days, graded E7 and rated harder than many 5.13s. Lauded in the climbing press as the hardest route in the world. The original (Mecca) and direct starts remained as aid routes.

Jerry Moffatt repeated the route in one day, abseiling off for a whistle-stop brew at the Wriggly Tin Cafe!

The direct start was freed as Revelations in 1984 and the middle section freed as Rage in 1992. Ron’s version was climbed in one pitch in 2003 by Mark Pretty with a final bolt added by Simon Lee to connect to the Crucifixion belay. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

Nobody else can hang those holds. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

The start has got harder over time. Originally 8a+.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=391050

One of Jerry's first hard ascents following two years of issues with his elbows.

Freed two days after the first aid ascent! [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 1 (1987) page 7 /library/16453/on-the-edge-1

References

[1] Mountain Issue 123 (1988), page 18 /library/11309/mountain-123

The hardest route in the UK at the time, and completed the day before Martin moved to Switzerland to start a job with Mammut [1].

We ended up having this enormous bouldering session...doing loads of stuff and feeling really strong...then someone said "come on, have a go then" and I just did it. [1]

Pete Oxley:

I was at the crag when Basher sent Mecca - his last effort on his last day in the UK - how cool was that? Everyone stopped when he was on it - dead quiet - only the clouds moved. I was on In Brine and leaned out from a high bolt to watch, with bated breath, as history was made. [2]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/68128640

[2] Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey, Giles Barker. Peak Rock: The History, the Routes, the Climbers. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Graphics Limited, 2013. Page 240.

[3] Mountain Issue 124 (1988) page 14 /library/11310/mountain-124

The first 9a in the world.

While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job.

Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+.

He climbed the route again in 1992, a few days before Malcom Smith’s ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 13 /library/11317/mountain-134

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117980239658862

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117980342992185

The end of a three year siege.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242

A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route (Zeke the Freak in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the grade by a British person.

It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.

The first time I did that move from the ground, I did the route, but I only did the last move by the skin of my teeth. I'm pretty sure a gust of wind blew me up that last move...

Steve's diary [2]

Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route.

7th October 1998, day 22:

Yet another failed day. Getting annoying now! Feel as though I should be doing better. Maybe I am getting a ‘head’ problem on ‘that’ move. Today I had 2 RP efforts, first go was the best, swinging over to the pinch but not getting the distance. 2nd go was rubbish. No psyche and hardly tried. Evo is feeling a path, but that cross is just a killer! Today I got Myles (Gibson) up there for a look, and with his fingers his opinion on moves is really important. He found it nails too, and no info change really (would have been nice if he found an easier way!). He reckoned 8b at least for the extension if not more, so it means the route could be overall 9a. That’s probably why I’m not getting up it!

10th October 1998, day 23:

THAT move FOUR times today! Excellent conditions. I’m wasting them! They will run out soon for sure. Not sure about the head problem except I expect to fail now. I set off knowing I’ll get to that move, and fall off that move. But I still think I’m trying hard enough, even on the move. Its just so momentum orientated. I need to have the movement pattern in my mind and not just try and static it. I’m sure it will go. Spent ages fiddling with the move and found perhaps a slightly easier way of swinging it, but only slightly, and probably not at all really. But that top section is still so hard. Today after each go I climbed the top section to keep it fresh. I could for sure drop that bit! Just need to keep plugging away.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/

[2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor

[3] Rupert Davies and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/

[5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/

References

[1] On The Edge 119, page 11.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfe6xr2Mbrc&t=473

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mFHAXYze_A

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6056.0.html

[3] Climb Issue 23, page 40

The super extension to Keen Roof starting as far back in the cave as possible and blasting straight out through the roof into Keen Roof, I opted for NO knee bar. Prob soft 8B+ if you use the knee bar?, repeat how you like. So many days of struggling to put this one together. Dealing with wet holds for the last two weeks has made this one epic to get done. Low 8C without knee bar, time will tell.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el2wKdgvMYs

Dumb but fun, and most importantly something hard at the Tor that doesn't break my fingers!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7tq15Ydg7c

I’ve named it after a book of stories written by my great-grandfather called 'Persian Dawns, Egyptian Nights' in keeping with the middle Eastern theme of some of the other routes at the Tor like Arabian Nights, Mecca, Haj [sic] and Kaa'bah.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COFsT7Yjtot/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/COIGdOMj1u8/

The climb is very similar to Hubble in a sense but the sequence of moves are a lot more complex and technically demanding. I was stuck for a while on the lower section but once I was able to unlock a sequence, the route came together really quickly for me. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqoVQxpYwlw

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_brandenburg_gate_project_by_will_bosi_proposes_9a+-72925

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWAkBKEouWd/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWgNmfZNyMR/?hl=en

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfnkQC9k2ZU

I did one at Raven Tor, Wild South, which I tried a crazy amount of days, but I was ignoring a kneebar for a long time because I didn’t want there to be a kneebar there. Then one day, I tried a kneepad, and it worked really well. I gave that climb 8C because when I started trying the knee, it only took two sessions, and it didn’t feel as bad, but looking back I’m thinking it didn’t feel so bad because I’d spent so much time on the rest of the boulder. So I think that’s probably an 8C+. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zf16iiXqOT8

[2] https://www.climbing.com/people/interview-will-bosi-spots-of-time/

I guess it must be the hardest piece of climbing I've done to date, though unfortunately it's not the most classic 😂.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg681196.html#msg681196

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/09/alex_barrows_establishes_new_raven_tor_9a-73444

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyYrD-5N9cF/=

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg682739.html#msg682739

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/felix-wilkins-links-persian-dawn-into-hajj-at-raven-tor-as-season-ends/

Matt Bird: So Will, what grade is it then?

WB: I have been thinking so much about the grade ever since I started work on the project. I find it so hard to grade short, powerful boulders as so much of the grade weighs on fewer individual moves and the grade can shift dramatically around based on small changes in beta and whatever style suits the climber.

However, providing a grade based on my own experience of other hard boulders as well as boulders on Raven Tor and Peak Lime, I am pretty confident in suggesting that this sits as a low-end 9A boulder.

MB: Ok, let’s break it down then - why is it not 8C+?

On Raven Tor itself, to the left of Realm, are two boulders which are essentially one-move 8A+’s. The crux move on Realm is at least one to two grades harder and is comparable to the first move on Burden of Dreams. Stitching the crux move and the last move took so many sessions. Even matching the final hold is a real effort!

Looking at other hard single-move boulders I have done elsewhere, the crux move is significantly harder than other lines such as Forgotten Gem (8C/V15, Chironico, Switzerland) and Silent Singer (Bowderstone, Lake District, 8C/V15).

Comparing the whole boulder to other short, powerful 8C+ boulders, it feels harder than Brain Rot (8C+/V16 Magic Wood) and Ephyra (8C+/V16 Brione).

It is incomparable to 8C+ like Honey Badger (Badger Cove established by Bosi in 2022) as it is 20 minutes down the road but feels like a totally different boulder problem. Honey Badger has way more moves making it difficult to compare with Realm as they were different styles. However, I put in way more time on this boulder than I did on Honey Badger, which consciously or subconsciously made me think this was a harder overall problem.

MB: So, how does it compare to 9A’s you have done?

Straight away, we can discount Return of the Sleepwalker and Alphane as comparisons because they are such different boulders in terms of style compared to Realm.

So the comparisons from my own experience come to Burden of Dreams and Spots of Time. I think Spots is the best comparator as it is in the UK. I did it recently [Winter 2024], and it is a short boulder similar to Realm.

For me, the crux of Realm is slightly harder than the crux of Spots simply because the key hold is flat, slippy limestone, but when you put all of the moves of each boulder together, they come out around the same grade. I do think Spots and Realm are a step above the 8C+ boulders I have done to date, so that is why I am proposing a low-end 9A boulder grade. As always, I am excited to hear what others think as they try the problem as it is at Raven Tor, so I am hoping it will get a lot of attention! [1]

References

[1] Press release /file/e85dc179-1c14-6a29-c466-81f955348780/PRESS RELEASE_BOSI_9A FIRST ASCENT_PEAK DISTRICT.pdf

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DJ4S7KMoLpV/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2025/05/will_bosi_establishes_realm_of_torment_9a-73972

[4] https://youtu.be/bb4PMysTmyM?