The Phoenix | E7/7c+ Trad climb at Cascade Falls

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Ray Jardine
Added at 08:02 on 28 February 2021
Jerry Moffatt
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Hidetaka Suzuki
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Added at 18:09 on 10 September 2021
Hazel Findlay
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Added at 07:12 on 26 December 2022


6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ray Jardine Lead | worked May 1977
First ascent. 14 attempts.

An incredible ascent for it's time, combining cutting edge difficulty with the technical innovation of friends, which Jardine invented and put to good use on routes like this.

In 1977, armed with a handful of Friends, Jardine rappelled into The Phoenix project. Instead of lowering after he fell, he hung and worked out the moves. Though other Valley climbers scorned his hangdogging, Jardine pushed through. On his 14 try, he climbed the route, protecting it with nuts and pins at the bottom and Friends on the splitter.

“The Phoenix is the hardest thing I’ve ever done,” said Jardine in a 1979 Mountain Magazine interview. Not only had Jardine shown what cams and hangdogging could do, he’d also established the world’s first 5.13 trad route. [2]



[2] This was the World's First 13a Trad Climb, 6th December 2022

Mark Hudon Lead | worked 1978
Second ascent.
Jerry Moffatt Lead | flash 1984
Hidetaka Suzuki Lead | worked Sep 1987
Alex Honnold Solo | worked Jun 2011
Hazel Findlay Lead | flash 9th Nov 2017