Climbers

Climber Name # Ascents Recorded Notes
Paul Robinson 47

Paul has climbed over 1000 boulder problems graded 8A or harder.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/paul-robinson-climbs-1000-boulders-8a-or-harder.html

Drew Ruana 45

Alongside other goals, Drew is trying to tick every problem 8B+ or harder in Colorado.

References

[1] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, January 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/100qfg5/pro_rock_climber_drew_ruana_ama/

[2] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, June 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/14bxa21/drew_ruana_ama_round_2/

Fred Nicole 44

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

Giuliano Cameroni 43
Pete Whittaker 43

One half of the WideBoyz.

Features in Without a Partner: Rope Solo of El Cap in Under 24rhs

Jim Pope 40

Peak district based climber's climber.

Author of the seminal Big Balls and Ground Falls.

References

[1] Training for the Olympic Qualification Series, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX6NicPSTEE

Solly Kemball-Dorey 39
Jakob Schubert 38

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian climber, and one of the best all rounders of his generation with many comp achievements (Bronze in the 2020 Tokyo olympics, winning the World Championships in 2023), sport routes (third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in 2019, first ascent of B.I.G 9c in 2023) and boulder problems (fifth ascent of Alphane 9A in 2023).

References

[1] https://www.thecrag.com/climber/jakobschubert

John Gaskins 38

John Gaskins is a controversial figure in British climbing. As well as an early repeat of Hubble he has claimed many ascents of hard routes and boulder problems. However for some of his hardest ascents it is unclear whether they happened. In particular he has been unable to describe the holds or sequences on his problem Shadowplay, and shortly after claiming the first ascent was unable to pull on to the problem to get photographs for his sponsors.

Similar inconsistencies exist on several other routes and problems he has claimed including Violent New Breed (9a+), Tranquilitas (8C) which John originally claimed as Karma of the Trees at 8A and Little Women Right Hand.

Despite the above John was a capable climber and almost certainly climbed several hard problems, such as Anaesthesia (8A+) at Woodwell.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee from UKBouldering.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbZALxPdjZg

[2] From the same interview as [1], footage of John climbing on his board https://vimeo.com/82936059.

[3] A Profile of John Gaskins by Simon Panton, On The Edge 120 page 48.

Pete Dawson 38
Malcolm Smith 37

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

Eliot Stephens 36
James Squire 36
Jonathan Siegrest 36
Ben Bransby 35

Nearly ticked every route on stanage (only Mother of Pearl and Marbellous remain at the time of writing).

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901

Dan Turner 35

Owner of one of the all time great psyche screams.

Jorge Díaz-Rullo 35
Nalle Hukkataival 35

Nalle Hukkataival is a Finnish boulderer. He made his name with first ascents and repeats of many of the hardest problems in the world in the period 2010-2020, including repeats of Gioia and Sleepwalker and the first ascents of Livin' Large and The Finnish Line.

In 2016 he established Burden of Dreams, the first 9A in the world.

Having been in the limelight for many years he has subsequently become more reclusive (by the standards of professional climbers).

References

[1] Features in The Circuit.

[2] http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/

Joe Brown 34

Born in 1930, Joe Brown was one of the pivotal figures in post-war climbing in the UK. In the 1950s and 60s, and alongside contemporaries such as Don Whillans, he pushed the standard of rock climbing in the UK to new levels with the first ascents of classic routes such as Cemetry Gates (E1), Great Slab (E3) and Right Eliminate (E3). Joe's routes frequently ventured in to territory that was previously considered off limits, often tackling bold and uncompromising features with minimal protection.

It is sometimes suggested that he was one of the inventors of jamming. Though this seems unlikely, though it is certainly true that he employed the technique to great effect on many of his new routes.

Jim Perrin:

With all the other greats of my time, I could understand how they climbed: fitness, physique, supple gymnasticism or sheer application. With Brown, there was something else at work. He was quite short, not heavily built, his muscles corded rather than developed, his movement smooth and deliberate. When I climbed with him, sometimes I would watch the way he made a move, copy it when I came to that point, and his way, that he had seen instantly, would be the least obvious and most immediately right. He was climbing's supreme craftsman, unerringly aware of the medium. [3]

References

[1] An extended biography written by Ollie Burrows is available here https://www.theclimbersshopjoebrownblog.co.uk/blog/joe-brown-biography including a list of many of Joe's first ascents.

[2] Interview with the BMC

[3] Obituary on UKClimbing written by Jim Perrin.

Shauna Coxsey 34

Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.

While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of New Base Line 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/shaunacoxsey

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g

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