Climbers

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian climber, and one of the best all rounders of his generation with many comp achievements (Bronze in the 2020 Tokyo olympics, winning the World Championships in 2023), sport routes (third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in 2019, first ascent of B.I.G 9c in 2023) and boulder problems (fifth ascent of Alphane 9A in 2023).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y47TXwLbCu8

Alongside other goals, Drew is trying to tick every problem 8B+ or harder in Colorado.

References

[1] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, January 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/100qfg5/pro_rock_climber_drew_ruana_ama/

[2] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, June 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/14bxa21/drew_ruana_ama_round_2/

Peak district based climber's climber.

References

[1] Training for the Olympic Qualification Series, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX6NicPSTEE

[2] New Beginnings, 2025 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3D0FfS4v8k

Johnny Dawes is very influential in British climbing, particularly in the 1980s and particularly in the Peak District and North Wales. Alongside contemporaries such as Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon he helped take over the mantel from the likes of Ron Fawcett and pushed the standards in trad climbing to new levels, culminating in his ascent of Indian Face on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy).

Whilst Johnny's trad climbing was cutting edge he did not embrace sport climbing in the way that many did in the early 90s, though he did still climb up to 8b+, a very respectable level for the time.

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes and Nick Dixon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gfAxYENlmU

[2] Features in 80's Birth of Extreme

[3] Interview for the film Stone Monkey, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdeaV_vfp5Q

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D88mEgfHJ-I

Prolific explorer and first ascenionist in the peak district. Has also repeated many hard problems at home and abroad. Part owner of Beastmaker.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee

[2] Wedge Climbing profile

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

Sébastien Bouin is a sport climber from the south of France. While being an exceptionally good all round climber, he is known for his extreme endurance climbing and establishing many hard first ascents. For example, his route Nordic Marathon in Flatanger takes in over 130m while climbing the out of the cave.

Ben Bransby is a prolific all rounder with everything from hard boulders to outrageously bold alpine-style ascents in Patagonia to his name.

At one point he was attempting to climb every route on Stanage, though as of 2024 he has hit a roadblock with the final two routes Marbellous and Mother of Pearl.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1o7RLJApyhQ2CEBAwVKzvz?

Features in Forte.

One half of the WideBoyz.

References

[1] Features in Without a Partner: Rope Solo of El Cap in Under 24rhs

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

As well as his hard bouldering exploits he also repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Niccolò Ceria is an Italian boulderer. He is known for his aesthetic approach to bouldering which focuses on the quality of the problem and the movement, as well as the difficulty.

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-jorge-diaz-rullo-conatus-spinoza

[2] Interview with desnivel, February 2025 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPYi1svMkEk

A newer name in the British climbing landscape, however his reputation speaks for itself with the third ascent of Isles of Wonder SDS and the first ascent of Poseidon's Wrath .

Sollys YouTube channel also boasts a wealth of esoteric climbing content. Although he has moved from the South West of England he remains one of the most prolific developers of that area.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajSuf5s2yyo