Climbers

Ben Moon is a British sport climber and boulderer. Throughout the 80s and 90s he was at the cutting edge, establishing and repeating many of the hardest routes and problems in the UK and Europe.

Ben was an early proponent of sport climbing in the UK at a time when trad climbing dominated and the use of bolts was very controversial. Statement of Youth (8a) which he established in 1984 was one of the first 8as in the UK. While many routes relied to varying degrees on bolts and pegs from aid ascents, Statement is an early example of a route that was bolted specifically so it could be free climbed.

Alongside Jerry Moffatt, Marc Le Menestrel, Antoine Le Menestrel and others Ben was at the forefront of the 80s sport climbing revolution which saw difficulty increase massively over the course of the decade: having climbed Statement of Youth in 1984 with some difficulty, by 1989 Ben had established Agincourt (8c) and Maginot Line (8c), two of the hardest sport climbs in the world at the time. In 1990 he made the first ascent of Hubble (9a), originally suggested at 8c+ it is now a contender for one of the first 9as in the world alongside Action Directe (9a).

In the early 90s he invested significant time into what would become Northern Lights (9a) at Kilnsey. Despite a protracted siege over several years Ben was unable to make the first ascent, being beset with injuries and poor conditions on the route. It seems likely that frustration with this process partly led to him spending an increasingly large amount of time bouldering.

As with sport climbing he was a very capable boulderer and established or repeated many of the hardest problems in the UK at the time. Problems such as 8 Ball (8A+), Cypher (8B) and Voyager SDS (8B+) are enduring hard classics.

2013 saw a resurgence after a period away from serious climbing, firstly climbing Mecca Extension (8c) at Raven Tor, then in 2015 climbing Rainshadow (9a) at Malham Cove just shy of his 49th birthday.

Moon Climbing

Ben is the founder and sole owner of Moon Climbing. Born out a previous business called S7, the brand initially focused on clothing and bouldering accessories. They are now best known for the Moonboard which spawned an entire category of climbing wall products, where users can climb on a standardised board and share problems via an app.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593

[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0

[3] The Real Thing

[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609

[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] A Sport Climbing Pioneer: The Story Of Ben Moon, Interview with Matt Groom, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfyU4KHvioM

[11] Interview with Adrian Berry March 2005 https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044659/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=460

[12] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7b64enKBPgbOPR9gK7T4nZ?

[15] On The Edge Issue 84, page 40

[16] https://moonclimbing.com/News/post/trad-ethics-ben-moon

James McHaffie is a prolific North Wales based trad climber who's also a very capable sport climber. He is one of the best trad onsight climbers in the UK (and potentially the world) with over a hundred E7 onsights to his name. He's also completed some impressive challenges, such as the 100 lakes extremes in a day.

On the 26th May 2021 James climbed Revelations at Raven Tor, the last route of 180 on his way to ticking every route in the book Extreme Rock. This incredible effort demonstrates a huge breadth and depth of experience, from relatively pedestrian climbs such as The Strand at Gogarth (North Stack And Main Cliff) to bold and intimidating leads such as Johnny Dawes' Indian Face and Jerry Moffatt's Master's Wall.

References

[1] Interview with DMM, September 2021 https://dmmwales.com/journal/may-2021/mchaffie-completes-extreme-rock

[2] Interview with RockClimbingUK, 2011 https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23709.0

[3] Interview with Marc Langley for UKClimbing.com, September 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/james_mchaffie_-_the_cumbrian-13045

[4] Adam Hocking picture of James McHaffie during his 100 lakes extremes in a day challenge https://www.instagram.com/p/CDb9sm3DI-T/

[5] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/caffs_100_lakeland_extremes-890

Peak district based climber's climber.

References

[1] Training for the Olympic Qualification Series, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX6NicPSTEE

[2] New Beginnings, 2025 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3D0FfS4v8k

[3] https://alpineclub.org.nz/feature/interview-jim-pope

[4] Climbing in the Hoggar Mountains (2026) https://jimpopeonarope.substack.com/p/climbing-in-the-hoggar-mountains

Alex Barrows is a British sport climber and boulderer. He specialises in onsighting and longer, endurance style routes.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/user11693449

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian climber, and one of the best all rounders of his generation with many comp achievements (Bronze in the 2020 Tokyo olympics, winning the World Championships in 2023), sport routes (third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in 2019, first ascent of B.I.G 9c in 2023) and boulder problems (fifth ascent of Alphane 9A in 2023).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y47TXwLbCu8

One half of the WideBoyz.

References

[1] Features in Without a Partner: Rope Solo of El Cap in Under 24rhs

[2] Interview with Alex Megos (2026) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6vBe-2guBw

Prolific explorer and first ascenionist in the peak district. Has also repeated many hard problems at home and abroad. Part owner of Beastmaker.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee

[2] Wedge Climbing profile

Features in Forte.

Drew Ruana is an American climber with an extensive list of V16 ascents including first ascents of "Distortion" V16, "Insomniac" V16, and "Maxwell's Demon Sit" V16. Growing up in the Vertical World climbing team in Seattle, Drew established many of the hardest routes in the Pacific Northwest in the late 2010s, with first ascents of "Brave New World" 9a and "The Assassin" 9a, the hardest routes in Washington and Oregon respectively. Following a brief spell in Salt Lake City where Drew competed on the IFSC circuit, Drew enrolled at the Colorado Schools of Mines in Golden, Colorado where he graduated with a degree in Computer Science in 2025. Alongside other goals, Drew is trying to tick every problem 8B+ or harder in Colorado.

References

[1] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, January 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/100qfg5/pro_rock_climber_drew_ruana_ama/

[2] AMA on reddit.com/r/climbharder, June 2023 https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/14bxa21/drew_ruana_ama_round_2/

Noah Wheeler is a young and up and coming boulderer who currently resides in Colorado, USA. He is one half of Wheel Rock with his brother Benn Wheeler.

Noah burst onto the scene in 2022 in which he repeated three 8C/V15 boulders with G-Master, Paint it Black, and Delirium. In 2024 Noah repeated Sleepwalker 8C+/V16 and Insomniac 8C+/V16. In the dying days of 2024 Noah repeated the infamous Return of the Sleepwalker 9A/V17 at only 22 years of age, this made him the youngest person to climb 9A/V17 at the time of his ascent.

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-mais-jeune-americain-nomme-noah-wheeler

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3O6FI1hbAKBsel83KUqvNS?

Sébastien Bouin is a sport climber from the south of France. While being an exceptionally good all round climber, he is known for his extreme endurance climbing and establishing many hard first ascents. For example, his route Nordic Marathon in Flatanger takes in over 130m while climbing the out of the cave.

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-jorge-diaz-rullo-conatus-spinoza

[2] Interview with desnivel, February 2025 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPYi1svMkEk

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established one of the first 8Bs with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

[7] Interview with Kyle Dunsire, 2000 https://www.australianbouldering.com/interviews/fred.html

Jack Palmieri is a British boulderer. He started climbing relatively late in life but has rapidly established himself by repeating a huge number of hard problems in the UK and abroad.

Around 2017 Jack spent a lot of time in Parisellas Cave, repeating nearly all the hard problems (including Silk Cut and Pilgrimage) in the cave as well as adding some new link ups of his own.

Using this as a base, he has then branched out in an attempt to seemingly climb every hard boulder in the UK. In 2022 alone he climbed over 100 8th grade boulder problems in the UK [1], a very impressive feat given the weather!

References

[1] Interview with UKClimbing.com, December 2022 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/jack_palmieri_on_climbing_100_8s_in_a_year-14907

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/jack_palmieri_on_climbing_200_8s_in_a_year-15678

A newer name in the British climbing landscape, however his reputation speaks for itself with the third ascent of Isles of Wonder SDS and the first ascent of Poseidon's Wrath .

Sollys YouTube channel also boasts a wealth of esoteric climbing content. Although he has moved from the South West of England he remains one of the most prolific developers of that area.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajSuf5s2yyo