Dave Cuthbertson

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Also known as: Cubby

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors: remus (9 contributions since 08 Aug 2021)
Added on 29th November 2020. Last updated on 7th October 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors: remus (9 contributions since 08 Aug 2021)
Added on 29th November 2020. Last updated on 7th October 2024.

Podcasts

Pics + Vids

Ascents

30 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1977 Marjorie Razorblade E3 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Monty Python's Flying Circus 6C Boulder | worked 1977
First ascent.
Lady Jane E2 Lead Jul 1977
First ascent.
1978 The Flytrap E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
1979 Wild Country E6 Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
1980 Scarab E6 Lead 1980
Lady Charlotte E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Circe E5 Lead 1980
Rest and Be Thankful E5 Lead 25th Apr 1980
First ascent.
1981 In Loving Memory E6 Lead 1981
First ascent.
1982 Gone With the Wind E7 Lead | worked 1982
Nijinski E5 Lead 1982
First ascent.
1983 Requiem E8 Lead | yo-yo 1983
First ascent.

A hugely impressive ascent for it's time featuring extremely hard climbing (comparable to 8a sport) on trad gear.

Looking back now with hindsight Im quite pleased I did it trying it ground up...I'd get to my high point, touch the holds above and then lower back to the ground...A sort of extended yo-yo style. [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10
1984 Just a Little Tease E5 Lead Jun 1984
First ascent.
1985 The Painted Wall E4 Lead 5th May 1985
First ascent.
1986 Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1986
Uncertain Emotions 7b Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Femme Fatale E8 Lead | worked 27th Jul 1986
First ascent.
1987
1988 The Screaming Abdabs E6 Lead 22nd Jun 1988
First ascent.
1989
1990 County Ethics 7C+ Lead | worked 1990
First ascent.
1991 Austrian Oak 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Predator 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
1992
1993
1994
1995 Symbiosis E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

Cleaned on an ab rope but not practiced.
1996
1997 The Great Arch E8 Alternate Leads | worked 1997
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
1998
1999
2000
2001 Mega Tsunami E6 Lead Jun 2001
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Austrian Oak 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Predator 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Raindogs 8a Lead | worked
Fourth ascent?

Due to some miscommunication with Chris Gore Dave thought the correct style was to place all the draws on every attempt, leading to a slightly longer than expected redpoint process! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson
Statement of Youth 8a Lead | worked
Uncertain Emotions 7b Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
County Ethics 7C+ Lead | worked 1990
First ascent.
Monty Python's Flying Circus 6C Boulder | worked 1977
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Requiem E8 Lead | yo-yo 1983
First ascent.

A hugely impressive ascent for it's time featuring extremely hard climbing (comparable to 8a sport) on trad gear.

Looking back now with hindsight Im quite pleased I did it trying it ground up...I'd get to my high point, touch the holds above and then lower back to the ground...A sort of extended yo-yo style. [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10
Femme Fatale E8 Lead | worked 27th Jul 1986
First ascent.
Symbiosis E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

Cleaned on an ab rope but not practiced.
The Great Arch E8 Alternate Leads | worked 1997 E7
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Romantic Reality E7 Lead
First ascent.
Gone With the Wind E7 Lead | worked 1982
Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1986
Wild Country E6 Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
In Loving Memory E6 Lead 1981
First ascent.
The Screaming Abdabs E6 Lead 22nd Jun 1988
First ascent.
Mega Tsunami E6 Lead Jun 2001
First ascent.
Scarab E6 Lead 1980
Lady Charlotte E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Rest and Be Thankful E5 Lead 25th Apr 1980
First ascent.
Nijinski E5 Lead 1982
First ascent.
Just a Little Tease E5 Lead Jun 1984
First ascent.
Circe E5 Lead 1980
Right Wall E5 Lead | onsight

An early onsight ascent.

The reputation that went with Right Wall then was massive...I did the route fine. In fact the hardest part was, there was chalk all over the place, and I ended up partly in Lord of the Flies...I got to the top and I thought "Hmm, Scottish E4"! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson
The Painted Wall E4 Lead 5th May 1985
First ascent.
Marjorie Razorblade E3 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Lady Jane E2 Lead Jul 1977
First ascent.
The Flytrap E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade