Dave Cuthbertson

Also known as: Cubby

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors
TdG
22 contributions since 15th August 2025.
12 contributions since 8th August 2021.
1 contribution since 12th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Murray Hamilton

Dave Cuthbertson is an extremely influential Scottish climber who was operating at his peak in the 1980s. He was responsible for some of the hardest routes of the era, for example his route Requiem was established in 1983 and features ~8a climbing on trad gear, making it the hardest route in the UK at the time.

Contributors
TdG
22 contributions since 15th August 2025.
12 contributions since 8th August 2021.
1 contribution since 12th July 2025.

Podcasts


Library


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No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

39 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ring of Steall 8c+ Lead | did not finish 1992
Predator 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Austrian Oak 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked Before 1st Jan 1991

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Statement of Youth 8a Lead | worked
Raindogs 8a Lead | worked
Fourth ascent?

Due to some miscommunication with Chris Gore Dave thought the correct style was to place all the draws on every attempt, leading to a slightly longer than expected redpoint process! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

Uncertain Emotions 7b Lead | worked Jun 1986
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
County Ethics 7C+ Lead | worked 1990
First ascent.
Monty Python's Flying Circus 6C Boulder | worked 1977
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Requiem E8 Lead | yo-yo 1983 E7
First ascent.

A hugely impressive ascent for it's time featuring extremely hard climbing (comparable to 8a sport) on trad gear.

Looking back now with hindsight Im quite pleased I did it trying it ground up...I'd get to my high point, touch the holds above and then lower back to the ground...A sort of extended yo-yo style. [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10

Femme Fatale E8 Lead | worked 27th Jul 1986
First ascent.
Symbiosis E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

Cleaned on an ab rope but not practiced.

The Great Arch E8 Alternate Leads | worked 1997 E7
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

References

[1] Climber August 1997, page 6

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DOGkIDmDOcS/

Gone With the Wind E7 Lead | worked 1982
Romantic Reality E7 Lead May 1984
First ascent.

FA Pitch 1 Pete Whillance & Derek Jamieson 31 July 1980; Pitches 2&3 Dave Cuthbertson & Kev Howett May 1984

Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1986
Liminality E7 Lead | worked 22nd May 1987 E6
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

Several pegs. A 4' sling was pre-placed on the otherwise difficult to clip 3rd peg for the FA

Yes, Yes E7 Lead | worked Sep 1997
First ascent.
Angel E7 Lead | worked 3rd Jun 1998
First ascent.

With Jo George

Undertow E7 Lead | worked
First ascent.
Wild Country E6 Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Scarab E6 Lead 1980
Prophet of Purism E6 Alternate Leads | worked 1981
First ascent.

With Roy Williamson. After abseil inspection.

In Loving Memory E6 Lead 1981
First ascent.
Revengeance E6 Lead | worked Jun 1981
First ascent. 2 sessions.

After abseil inspection

The Handren Effect E6 Lead | worked Apr 1983
First ascent.
The Screaming Abdabs E6 Lead 22nd Jun 1988
First ascent.
Mega Tsunami E6 Lead Jun 2001
First ascent.
Circe E5 Lead 1980
Lady Charlotte E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Rest and Be Thankful E5 Lead 25th Apr 1980
First ascent.
Nijinski E5 Lead 1982
First ascent.
Jahu E5 Solo Jun 1984 E6
First ascent.

Originally graded E6 6a

Just a Little Tease E5 Lead Jun 1984
First ascent.
Right Wall E5 Lead | onsight

An early onsight ascent.

The reputation that went with Right Wall then was massive...I did the route fine. In fact the hardest part was, there was chalk all over the place, and I ended up partly in Lord of the Flies...I got to the top and I thought "Hmm, Scottish E4"! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson

The Painted Wall E4 Lead 5th May 1985
First ascent.
Marjorie Razorblade E3 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Lady Jane E2 Lead Jul 1977
First ascent.
The Flytrap E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade