Pete Livesey

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ron Fawcett

One thing that one sees in climbing is that over the period of years influential figures come along...and because of their activities they seem to trigger other people off, and I think that Livesey is one of these. Ok he may not be the finest climber, maybe there are others that are better, but his activities were so widespread, diverse and sensational in nature that people were talking about it. He was the controversial figure of the day. [1]

Livsey was an early proponent of training for climbing, a practice that was then taken on board and used to great affect by the following generation of climbers including Ron Fawcett, Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.

Mick Ward:

In running, kayaking and caving, he'd been prevented from being the absolute best by lack of natural talent. Pete looked at climbing more carefully, saw an athletic curve just beginning to take off, knew the time was ripe for him to make his move. [2]

References

[1] Ken Wilson in Rock Athlete

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297

Contributors
44 contributions since 30th August 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ron Fawcett

One thing that one sees in climbing is that over the period of years influential figures come along...and because of their activities they seem to trigger other people off, and I think that Livesey is one of these. Ok he may not be the finest climber, maybe there are others that are better, but his activities were so widespread, diverse and sensational in nature that people were talking about it. He was the controversial figure of the day. [1]

Livsey was an early proponent of training for climbing, a practice that was then taken on board and used to great affect by the following generation of climbers including Ron Fawcett, Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.

Mick Ward:

In running, kayaking and caving, he'd been prevented from being the absolute best by lack of natural talent. Pete looked at climbing more carefully, saw an athletic curve just beginning to take off, knew the time was ripe for him to make his move. [2]

References

[1] Ken Wilson in Rock Athlete

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297

Contributors
44 contributions since 30th August 2021.

Library

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Pics + Vids

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Ascents

23 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Zero E7 Lead | worked Jul 1979
First ascent.
Footless Crow E6 Lead | worked 19th Apr 1974
First ascent. Harder than Right Wall.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtgvwb8VGJU

[2] Mountain 35 (1974), page 11 /library/11054/mountain-35
Mossdale Trip E6 Lead | worked 1977
First ascent.
Das Kapital E6 Lead | worked
First ascent.
Jenny Wren E5 Alternate Leads | worked 1971
First ascent. With John Sheard.

References

[1] Mountain 19 (1972), page 14
Doubting Thomas E5 Lead | worked 1971
First ascent. 2 points of aid.
Right Wall E5 Lead | worked 1974
First ascent. Easier than Footless Crow.

Ken Wilson [?]:

After two abseil inspections to clean loose rock and study the line, Livesey linked up an intricate series of holds and ledges, to gain the traverse ledge of the girdle, without aid either for resting or progress. The prospect of unprotected and fierce climbing ahead stopped him at this point and, after tying off his rope, he soloed off up Cemetery Gates to have a further inspection from a rope, and to try two alternatives with jumar protection. Returning to the ledge, he pulled down the rope and finished the route, although the chosen alternative proved more difficult and sustained than expected. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37
The Cumbrian E5 Lead After 5th May 1975
Second ascent. With Al Manson. 1 point of aid.

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37
The Golden Mile E5 Lead | worked Jul 1980
First ascent.
Liberator E5 Alternate Leads | worked

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo
Wellington Crack E4 Lead | worked Apr 1973

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=611

[2] Mountain 35 (1974), page 11 /library/11054/mountain-35
Crack-a-go-go E4 Lead 1974
First ascent. First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 39 (1974), page 9 /library/11058/mountain-39
Zukator E4 Alternate Leads 1974
First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 14 /library/11056/mountain-37
Dry Gasp E4 Rope Solo 1974
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 12 /library/11056/mountain-37
Butterballs E4 Lead 1974
Fourth ascent. With Ron Fawcett.

Fawcett and Livesey climbed this as part of a longer link up. It's unclear who led this pitch.

References

[1] Mountain 38, page 10 /library/11057/mountain-38
Cream E4 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Downhill Racer E4 Lead | worked 13th Mar 1977
First ascent.

A controversial ascent as holds were chipped prior to it being climbed, though Livesey never admitted to the chipping.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.

[2] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=934
Central Wall E3 Lead 1971
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 19 (1972), page 14
Face Route E3 Lead | worked Oct 1971
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=120
Adjudicator Wall E3 Lead 1972
Second ascent. With John Sheard. Easier than Jenny Wren.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
High Street E3 Solo Before 1st Mar 1974

References

[1] Mountain 32 (1974), page 14 /library/11051/mountain-32
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys E3 Alternate Leads 1975
With Pete Gomersall. First free ascent.
Debauchery E1 Alternate Leads 1967
With John Sheard.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade