Froggatt Edge

More

• Change Log
• Notes Log
• Threads

Nat Allen:

He had a go and got to the very delicate move. He had a really good go; he could have got across to the ledge, but he daren't. Then Wilf [White] had a top rope on it. The next week-end, Joe led it. He went straight for it and did it.

References

[1] Peak Rock, p.83

With one machine nut for aid

Don jumped off from the lip while attempting to make the first ascent.

This iconic image was on the cover of the 'Recent Developments' guide to the peak.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/457331050999742

Probably the hardest route on grit at the time. There was an all-day jumar inspection prior to the first ascent.

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 91.

[2] https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/death_of_a_lie

A controversial ascent as holds were chipped prior to it being climbed, though Livesey never admitted to the chipping.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.

[2] https://youtu.be/dnGh-hggvxs?t=934

With sideruners

Climbed with three belayers.

Athletic seconds required to prevent cratering. [1]

A few days after the ascent, Woodward repeated the route several times for photos.

Photographer Ian Smith:

Jonny had actually made the first ascent a few days earlier… and the plan was to for him to do the route as well as possible, given the poor conditions, to get a sequence of photos. It was clearly a climb at the absolute upper limit of what was possible at the time, particularly as he was wearing what nowadays would be regarded as very crude and non-sticky boots (this being well before the introduction of the Boreal Firé). He explained that he had top-roped it a number of times and had not been able to do it so he had decided that what was required was the adrenaline of trying it on the lead and seven falls later he had succeeded.

The photo session went really well and Jonny climbed the route a couple of times for different photography angles and, it being a Sunday and Froggatt being a popular crag, created quite a stir as most of the climbers in the near vicinity stopped their own climbing and sat around to watch Jonny at work. The first time he topped out the crowd broke out into spontaneous applause, very unusual behaviour for the normally reserved British climbers. [3]

References

[1] Lovers' Leap Café, Stoney Middleton: New Route Books - 1982-1994 (RockArchivist - New Route Books), Phil Kelly 2023. Page 4.

[2] On The Edge Issue 71, page 50

[3] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/beaugeste/index.html

In EBs

Entry in Stoney New Routes book:

The Screaming Dream. E8 7B (B3)

Free climbs the problem Knowns as "The Crack".

"If you've got what it takes it will take all you've got."

Duration of ascent 25 seperate occassions [sic] spread over 9 months.

Hang Loose,

Mark Leach

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=391047

Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented.

References

[1] Letter to On The Edge, issue 104, page 8

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115414339915452

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117981336325419

With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

On the same day Ben also soloed every other route on the slab, only missing out on Toy Boy.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2004/01/heason_adds_new_e9_to_froggatt-9871

References

[1] Winter Sessions @ 39:00

…its a really cool prow - about 7A 4 or 5 metres long and i think it should be called "the captain" as it looks a bit like a large bulbous phallus when viewed end on! its about 50m to the right of Stottie, if you walk along the path on the top of Froggatt then go right down a small path about 50m before that boulder with a crack and a polished foothold on it(the one on the left of the path) just drop over the edge by about 10m and walk to the right and you should see it or walk about 50m right from Stottie if you know where that is.... it starts way low and left sharing the very first decent flake and finishes right at the tip then rocks rightwards around the backside. take a brush as it may be a little scrittly still and enjoy...a peak classic in the making... [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22237.0

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/nedfee/p/BbPj63jnM79/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/11/ned_feehally_climbs_direct_finish_to_renegade_master-71366