Fred Nicole

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Also known as: Frédéric Nicole

Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Age: 54 years old
Height: 180 cm
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Contemporaries
Bernd Zangerl
Klem Loskot
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

Contributors
69 contributions since 15th May 2021.

Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Age: 54 years old
Height: 180 cm
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Contemporaries
Bernd Zangerl
Klem Loskot
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

Contributors
69 contributions since 15th May 2021.

Podcasts

Library

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

53 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
La Chimère 9a+ Lead | worked 2002
Bain de Sang 9a Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
L'Isola che no c'é 9a Lead | worked 14th Mar 2009
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/photos/landrsquo-isola-che-non-candrsquo-andegrave-the-island-does-not-exist/
Legacy 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2019
Second ascent.
Elfe 8c+ Lead | worked 1997
First ascent.
Le Toit d'Auguste 8b Lead | worked 1987

Antoine Le Menestrel, the strongest climber of the time, had been unable to free it and that was enough to put in doubt Bérhault's success. Can you imagine the reaction and skepticism when two 16-year-olds from Switzerland succeeded where the greatest had not? [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 20th Aug 2002 8B+
First ascent.
Terremer 8C Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/
Witness the Fitness 8C Boulder | worked Dec 2006

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/01/fred_nicole_repeats_sharmas_witness_the_fitness-32728
Kryptos 8C Boulder | worked Oct 2009
Le Boa 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2011 8C
First ascent.

It was one of those longterm projects, which you never know if it will go for sure. I started trying it two years ago. It was just after completing L'Isola che no c'é. I enjoy having this kind of projects where you can go back over and over again, and slowly, try after try, you start to visualize the complete picture of it.

It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line.

Most of the time I don't grade my boulders anymore, but people are still curious what they could be. On this one my feeling lies around 8C boulder, as it felt as the hardest boulder I ever did on pockets. For sure the hardest thing since L'isola che non c'é and reckoning the time spent on it anyway an important line for me. [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/fred_nicole_climbs_le_boa_-_new_font_8c-64179
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Arzak 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Radja 8B+ Boulder | worked 1st Mar 1996
First ascent.

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807
Eau Profonde 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 1997
First ascent.
Coeur de Lion 8B+ Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/
Oliphant's Dawn 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2000
First ascent.

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C845oYHCTC3/
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 28th Oct 2000 8C
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-nicole-sends-dreamtime-8c-at-cresciano-switzerland.html
Goldfish Trombone 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2001
Esperanza 8B+ Boulder | worked 15th Feb 2001
First ascent.
Black Eagle Assis (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.
New Base Line 8B+ Boulder | worked Mar 2003
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html
Entlinge 8B+ Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
Amandla 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
La Danse des Balrogs 8B Boulder | worked Apr 1992
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=728
Li 8B Boulder | worked 1997
First ascent.
Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1997
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/456926684373512

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/
La Proue 8B Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
Cave Rave 8B Boulder | worked 1999
Second ascent?

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
Ammagamma 8B Boulder | worked 1999
1 session.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
The Arch 8B Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.
Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 20th Jan 2001

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html
Mooiste Meisie 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Nagual 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Madiba 8B Boulder | worked 18th Jul 2003
First ascent.
Terre de Sienne 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2004 8C
First ascent.
The Swarm 8B Boulder | worked 2009

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html
The Escapist 8B Boulder | worked Sep 2014

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/the_escapist_8b+_by_fred_nicole-69204
Alma Blanca 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/451840591548788
The Vice 8B Boulder | worked
Second ascent.
Netsuke 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.
Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
Reve de Faire 8A+ Boulder | worked 1999
First ascent.
The Mandala 8A+ Boulder | worked 2000 8A+
Second ascent. 3 sessions.
Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 12th May 2003
Frank's Wild Years 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Souvenir 8A Boulder | worked 1988
First ascent.
Team Work 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Thriller 7C+ Boulder | flash 1993

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45
Caroline 7C+ Boulder | worked 1996
First ascent.
Tea Garden Roof 7C Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
E La Nave Va 8c+ Boulder | worked May 1994
First ascent.