Fred Nicole

Also known as: Frédéric Nicole

Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Age: 55 years old
Gender: Male
Height: 180 cm
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Notable Partnerships
Bernd Zangerl
Contemporaries
Bernd Zangerl
Klem Loskot
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Family
François Nicole (sibling)

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established one of the first 8Bs with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

[7] Interview with Kyle Dunsire, 2000 https://www.australianbouldering.com/interviews/fred.html

Contributors
249 contributions since 15th May 2021.
TdG
23 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
8 contributions since 20th January 2025.

Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Age: 55 years old
Gender: Male
Height: 180 cm
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Notable Partnerships
Bernd Zangerl
Contemporaries
Bernd Zangerl
Klem Loskot
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Family
François Nicole (sibling)

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established one of the first 8Bs with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42

[7] Interview with Kyle Dunsire, 2000 https://www.australianbouldering.com/interviews/fred.html

Contributors
249 contributions since 15th May 2021.
TdG
23 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
8 contributions since 20th January 2025.

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Ascents

60 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
La Chimère 9a+ Lead | worked 2002

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

Legacy Second ascent. 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2019
Elfe First ascent. 8c+ Lead | worked 1997

Fred pulled an undercling off the route which was later repaired.

Antoine Le Menestrel, the strongest climber of the time, had been unable to free it and that was enough to put in doubt Bérhault's success. Can you imagine the reaction and skepticism when two 16-year-olds from Switzerland succeeded where the greatest had not? [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Monkey Wedding First ascent. 8C Boulder | worked 20th Aug 2002 8B+
Kryptos 8C Boulder | worked Oct 2009

It was one of those longterm projects, which you never know if it will go for sure. I started trying it two years ago. It was just after completing L'Isola che no c'é. I enjoy having this kind of projects where you can go back over and over again, and slowly, try after try, you start to visualize the complete picture of it.

It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line.

Most of the time I don't grade my boulders anymore, but people are still curious what they could be. On this one my feeling lies around 8C boulder, as it felt as the hardest boulder I ever did on pockets. For sure the hardest thing since L'isola che non c'é and reckoning the time spent on it anyway an important line for me. [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/fred_nicole_climbs_le_boa_-_new_font_8c-64179

Arzak First ascent. 8C Boulder | worked 2015
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas First ascent. 8C Boulder | worked

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807

Eau Profonde First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 1997

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C845oYHCTC3/

Goldfish Trombone 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2001
Esperanza First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked 15th Feb 2001
Black Eagle Assis (pre break) First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked 2002
Amandla First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked 2005
Entlinge First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked 2005
Li First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 1997
La Pierre Philosophale First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 1998
La Proue First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 1998

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

La Soucoupe First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 15th Nov 1999 8B/8B+
The Arch First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 2000
Mooiste Meisie First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 2003
Nagual First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 2003
Madiba First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 18th Jul 2003
Terre de Sienne First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2004 8C
The Vice Second ascent. 8B Boulder | worked

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

Originally 8A, upgraded to 8A+ after holds were chipped off in June 2001

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

Reve de Faire First ascent. 8A+ Boulder | worked 1999
The Mandala Second ascent. 3 sessions. 8A+ Boulder | worked 2000 8A+
Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 12th May 2003
Frank's Wild Years First ascent. 8A+ Boulder | worked
Souvenir First ascent. 8A Boulder | worked 1988
Baboon Master First ascent. 8A Boulder | worked 1996
Hinerauge 8A Boulder | worked 1998
Team Work First ascent. 8A Boulder | worked

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45

Caroline First ascent. 7C+ Boulder | worked 1996
Tea Garden Roof First ascent. 7C Boulder | worked 2005
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
E La Nave Va First ascent. 8c+ Boulder | worked May 1994