Fred Nicole

Also known as: Frédéric Nicole

Quick Info

Nationality: CH
Height: 180 cm
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Notable Partnerships
Bernd Zangerl
Social Media

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: CH
Height: 180 cm
Date of birth: 21st May 1970
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Notable Partnerships
Bernd Zangerl
Social Media

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html

Contributors: remus

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Added at 20:02 on 05 February 2022
Slashface (8B, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Alma Blanca (8B, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Dreamtime (pre break) (8B+, FA)
Added at 12:01 on 06 January 2023
Slashface (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Terremer (8C, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Coeur de Lion (8B+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Le Boa (8C, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
La Danse des Balrogs (8B, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Radja (8B+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022

Ascents

36 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1988 Souvenir 8A Boulder | worked 1988
First ascent.
1989
1990
1991
1992 La Danse des Balrogs 8B Boulder | worked Apr 1992
1993 Bain de Sang 9a Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.
1994 E La Nave Va 8c+ Boulder | worked May 1994
First ascent.
1995 Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995
First ascent.
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

1996 Caroline 7C+ Boulder | worked 1996
First ascent.
Radja 8B+ Boulder | worked 1st Mar 1996
First ascent.

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807

1997 Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1997
1998 Coeur de Lion 8B+ Boulder | worked 1998
La Proue 8B Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
1999
2000 Oliphant's Dawn 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2000
First ascent.

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 28th Oct 2000
2001 Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 20th Jan 2001
Esperanza 8B+ Boulder | worked 15th Feb 2001
First ascent.
2002 Black Eagle Assis (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.
La Chimère 9a+ Lead | worked 2002
Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 20th Aug 2002
First ascent.
2003 Mooiste Meisie 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Nagual 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
New Base Line 8B+ Boulder | worked Mar 2003
Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 12th May 2003
2004 Terre de Sienne 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2004
First ascent.
2005 Terremer 8C Boulder | worked 2005
Entlinge 8B+ Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
2006 Witness the Fitness 8C Boulder | worked Dec 2006
2007
2008
2009 The Swarm 8B Boulder | worked 2009
Kryptos 8C Boulder | worked Oct 2009
2010
2011 Le Boa 8C Boulder | worked 2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019 Legacy 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2019

Second ascent.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
La Chimère 9a+ Lead | worked 2002
Bain de Sang 9a Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.
Legacy 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2019

Second ascent.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 20th Aug 2002 8B+
First ascent.
Terremer 8C Boulder | worked 2005
Le Boa 8C Boulder | worked 2011
Arzak 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Witness the Fitness 8C Boulder | worked Dec 2006
Kryptos 8C Boulder | worked Oct 2009
Radja 8B+ Boulder | worked 1st Mar 1996
First ascent.

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807

Coeur de Lion 8B+ Boulder | worked 1998
Oliphant's Dawn 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2000
First ascent.

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 28th Oct 2000 8C
Esperanza 8B+ Boulder | worked 15th Feb 2001
First ascent.
Black Eagle Assis (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 2002
First ascent.
Entlinge 8B+ Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
Amandla 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
New Base Line 8B+ Boulder | worked Mar 2003
La Danse des Balrogs 8B Boulder | worked Apr 1992
Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1997
La Proue 8B Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
Mooiste Meisie 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Nagual 8B Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Terre de Sienne 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2004 8C
First ascent.
Alma Blanca 8B Boulder | worked
Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 20th Jan 2001
The Swarm 8B Boulder | worked 2009
Ammagamma 8B Boulder | worked

In a session.

Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995
First ascent.
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 1995

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 12th May 2003
Souvenir 8A Boulder | worked 1988
First ascent.
Team Work 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Caroline 7C+ Boulder | worked 1996
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
E La Nave Va 8c+ Boulder | worked May 1994
First ascent.