| From: | Switzerland 🇨🇭 |
| Date of birth: | 21st May 1970 |
| Age: | 55 years old |
| Gender: | Male |
| Height: | 180 cm |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
| Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8A+ |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a+ |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Bernd Zangerl | |
| Contemporaries | |
| Bernd Zangerl | |
| Klem Loskot | |
| Ben Moon | |
| Malcolm Smith | |
| Family | |
| François Nicole (sibling) | |
Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established one of the first 8Bs with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.
He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.
[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html
[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU
[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU
[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515
[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html
[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42
[7] Interview with Kyle Dunsire, 2000 https://www.australianbouldering.com/interviews/fred.html
60 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| La Chimère | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2002 | |
| Bain de Sang First ascent. | 9a | Lead | worked | Sep 1993 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| L'Isola che no c'é First ascent. | 9a | Lead | worked | 14th Mar 2009 | |
| Legacy Second ascent. | 9a | Lead | worked | 13th Sep 2019 | |
| Elfe First ascent. | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
| Light Weight Baby | 8c+ | Lead | did not finish | ||
|
Fred pulled an undercling off the route which was later repaired. |
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| Le Toit d'Auguste | 8b | Lead | worked | 1987 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Monkey Wedding First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | 20th Aug 2002 | 8B+ |
| Terremer First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | Dec 2005 | 8C+ |
| Witness the Fitness | 8C | Boulder | worked | Dec 2006 | |
| Kryptos | 8C | Boulder | worked | Oct 2009 | |
| Le Boa First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | Mar 2011 | 8C |
References[1] https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/fred_nicole_climbs_le_boa_-_new_font_8c-64179 |
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| Arzak First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2015 | |
| Chakijana First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | Oct 2016 | |
| Le Poinçonneur des Lilas First ascent. | 8C | Boulder | worked | ||
| Radja First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 1st Mar 1996 | |
|
With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+. References |
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| Eau Profonde First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Oct 1997 | |
| Coeur de Lion First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
References |
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| Oliphant's Dawn First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Sep 2000 | |
References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html |
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| Dreamtime (pre break) First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 28th Oct 2000 | 8C |
| Goldfish Trombone | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Feb 2001 | |
| Esperanza First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 15th Feb 2001 | |
| Black Eagle Assis (pre break) First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2002 | |
| New Base Line Second ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Mar 2003 | |
| Amandla First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| Entlinge First ascent. | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| La Danse des Balrogs First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | Apr 1992 | |
References |
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| Li First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1997 | |
| Slashface First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1997 | |
| La Pierre Philosophale First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| La Proue First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| Ammagamma 1 session. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| Cave Rave Second ascent? | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| La Soucoupe First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 15th Nov 1999 | 8B/8B+ |
| Fatman (assis) First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | Between 1st Jan 2000 and 1st Mar 2000 | 8B/8B+ |
| The Arch First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2000 | |
| Spectre | 8B | Boulder | worked | 20th Jan 2001 | |
| Alma Blanca First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | Mar 2001 | |
| Mooiste Meisie First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2003 | |
| Nagual First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2003 | |
| Madiba First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | 18th Jul 2003 | |
| Terre de Sienne First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | Dec 2004 | 8C |
| The Swarm | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2009 | |
| The Escapist | 8B | Boulder | worked | Sep 2014 | |
| Netsuke First ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | Before 21st Mar 2017 | |
References |
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| The Vice Second ascent. | 8B | Boulder | worked | ||
| Dominator Third ascent. | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1995 | 8A+ |
|
Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent. |
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| Karma First ascent. | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1995 | 8A |
|
Originally 8A, upgraded to 8A+ after holds were chipped off in June 2001 References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| Reve de Faire First ascent. | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
| The Mandala Second ascent. 3 sessions. | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2000 | 8A+ |
| Massive Attack | 8A+ | Boulder | flash | 12th May 2003 | |
| Frank's Wild Years First ascent. | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | ||
| Souvenir First ascent. | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1988 | |
| Baboon Master First ascent. | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1996 | |
| Hinerauge | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| Team Work First ascent. | 8A | Boulder | worked | ||
| Thriller | 7C+ | Boulder | flash | 1993 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45 |
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| Caroline First ascent. | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | 1996 | |
| Tea Garden Roof First ascent. | 7C | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E La Nave Va First ascent. | 8c+ | Boulder | worked | May 1994 |