| From: | Switzerland 🇨🇭 | 
| Date of birth: | 21st May 1970 | 
| Age: | 55 years old | 
| Gender: | Male | 
| Height: | 180 cm | 
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C | 
| Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8A+ | 
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a+ | 
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Bernd Zangerl | |
| Contemporaries | |
| Bernd Zangerl | |
| Klem Loskot | |
| Ben Moon | |
| Malcolm Smith | |
| Family | |
| François Nicole (sibling) | |
Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established one of the first 8Bs with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.
He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.
[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html
[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU
[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU
[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515
[5] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, May 2018 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-bouldering-at-cresciano-and-melloblocco-in-tour-2018.html
[6] Fred Nicole, On The Edge Issue 105 page 42
58 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | 
|---|---|---|---|---|
| La Chimère | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2002 | |
| Bain de Sang | 9a | Lead | worked | Sep 1993 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| L'Isola che no c'é | 9a | Lead | worked | 14th Mar 2009 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References | 
                                ||||
| Legacy | 9a | Lead | worked | 13th Sep 2019 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Second ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Elfe | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Le Toit d'Auguste | 8b | Lead | worked | 1987 | |
                                        
 References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | 
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Monkey Wedding | 8C | Boulder | worked | 20th Aug 2002 | 8B+ | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Terremer | 8C | Boulder | worked | Dec 2005 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/ [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/B6lZhPEn_Gs/?hl=en [3] https://www.climbing.com/news/nicole-adds-hueco-testpiece/  | 
                                ||||
| Witness the Fitness | 8C | Boulder | worked | Dec 2006 | |
| Kryptos | 8C | Boulder | worked | Oct 2009 | |
| Le Boa | 8C | Boulder | worked | Mar 2011 | 8C | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    
 References[1] https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/fred_nicole_climbs_le_boa_-_new_font_8c-64179  | 
                                ||||
| Arzak | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2015 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Chakijana | 8C | Boulder | worked | Oct 2016 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/8b-c-fa-by-fred-nicole-46-in-rocklands  | 
                                ||||
| Le Poinçonneur des Lilas | 8C | Boulder | worked | ||
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Radja | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 1st Mar 1996 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+. References | 
                                ||||
| Eau Profonde | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Oct 1997 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Coeur de Lion | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References | 
                                ||||
| Oliphant's Dawn | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Sep 2000 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    
 References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html  | 
                                ||||
| Dreamtime (pre break) | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 28th Oct 2000 | 8C | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References | 
                                ||||
| Goldfish Trombone | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Feb 2001 | |
| Esperanza | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 15th Feb 2001 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Black Eagle Assis (pre break) | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2002 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| New Base Line | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Mar 2003 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Second ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html  | 
                                ||||
| Entlinge | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Amandla | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| La Danse des Balrogs | 8B | Boulder | worked | Apr 1992 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References | 
                                ||||
| Li | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1997 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Slashface | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1997 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/456926684373512  | 
                                ||||
| La Proue | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| La Pierre Philosophale | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Cave Rave | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Second ascent?
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| Ammagamma | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    1 session.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| La Soucoupe | 8B | Boulder | worked | 15th Nov 1999 | 8B/8B+ | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| The Arch | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2000 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Fatman (assis) | 8B | Boulder | worked | Between 1st Jan 2000 and 1st Mar 2000 | 8B/8B+ | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-nicole-and-fatman.html  | 
                                ||||
| Spectre | 8B | Boulder | worked | 20th Jan 2001 | |
| Alma Blanca | 8B | Boulder | worked | Mar 2001 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/451840591548788  | 
                                ||||
| Nagual | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2003 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Mooiste Meisie | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2003 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Madiba | 8B | Boulder | worked | 18th Jul 2003 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Terre de Sienne | 8B | Boulder | worked | Dec 2004 | 8C | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| The Swarm | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2009 | |
| The Escapist | 8B | Boulder | worked | Sep 2014 | |
| The Vice | 8B | Boulder | worked | ||
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Second ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Netsuke | 8B | Boulder | worked | ||
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Karma | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1995 | 8A | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    Originally 8A, upgraded to 8A+ after holds were chipped off in June 2001 References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| Dominator | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1995 | 8A+ | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Third ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                                 
                                    Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.  | 
                                ||||
| Reve de Faire | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| The Mandala | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2000 | 8A+ | 
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    Second ascent. 3 sessions.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Massive Attack | 8A+ | Boulder | flash | 12th May 2003 | |
| Frank's Wild Years | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | ||
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Souvenir | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1988 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Hinerauge | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
| Team Work | 8A | Boulder | worked | ||
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Thriller | 7C+ | Boulder | flash | 1993 | |
                                        References[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 45  | 
                                ||||
| Caroline | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | 1996 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Tea Garden Roof | 7C | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | 
|---|
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | 
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E La Nave Va | 8c+ | Boulder | worked | May 1994 | |
| 
                                         
                                            
                                                
                                                    First ascent.
                                                
                                            
                                            
                                            
                                         
                                     | 
                                ||||