Indian Face | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.


Pics + Vids

Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Dave MacLeod
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
Angus Kille
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
John Redhead
Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
© Paul Williams

Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Johnny Dawes Lead (Worked) 04 Oct 1986

I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. Arthur Birtwhistle on Diagonal, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276

Dave MacLeod Lead (Worked) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

George Ulrich Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213

James McHaffie Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205

Calum Muskett Lead (Worked) 11 Jul 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213

Angus Kille Lead (Worked) 01 Jul 2018 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/indian_face_e9_6c_by_angus_kille-71634

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQP7nqwaEog

Nick Dixon Lead (Worked)

Second ascent.

Neil Gresham Lead (Worked)

Third ascent.

John Redhead Lead (Did not finish)

John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it 'The Tormented Ejaculation'.

John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered the first ascenionist who then scraped the painting off.