Chris Sharma


Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Dave Graham
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Contributors: remus, LeodF

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Dave Graham
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Contributors: remus, LeodF

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:03 on 05 March 2021
Super Tweak (8c)
Added at 08:05 on 29 May 2021
Black Pearl (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:11 on 09 November 2023
Black Pearl (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:11 on 11 November 2023
Sleeping Lion (9b, FA)
Added at 06:11 on 14 November 2023
Black Pearl (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:11 on 21 November 2023
Groove Train (8c)
Added at 17:11 on 27 November 2023
Sleeping Lion (9b, FA)
Added at 15:12 on 06 December 2023
Le Blond (9c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 29 February 2024
Le Blond (9c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 29 February 2024
Le Blond (9c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 29 February 2024
Just Do It (8c+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 14 January 2024
Chouca (8a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:08 on 22 August 2023
Necessary Evil (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:08 on 31 August 2023
Necessary Evil (8c+, FA)
Added at 15:08 on 31 August 2023
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
Added at 15:08 on 31 August 2023
Biographie (9a+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Fight or Flight (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
La Dura Dura (9b+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Witness the Fitness (8C, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
First Round, First Minute (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
El Bon Combat (9b, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 21 December 2020
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
Added at 22:02 on 15 February 2021
Dreamtime (pre break) (8B+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:03 on 24 March 2023
Sleeping Lion (9b, FA)
Added at 21:03 on 28 March 2023
Sleeping Lion (9b, FA)
Added at 07:03 on 31 March 2023
© Jan Novak
Sleeping Lion (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:03 on 31 March 2023
La Reina Mora (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:03 on 31 March 2023
Big Fish (8c+, FA)
Added at 17:03 on 31 March 2023
Big Fish (8c+, FA)
Added at 17:03 on 31 March 2023
Le Blond (9c)
Added at 15:06 on 29 June 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Dreamcatcher (9a, FA)
Added at 08:09 on 05 September 2021
La Novena Enmienda (9a+)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
Gancho Perfecto (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 29 April 2021
Stoking the Fire (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:01 on 04 January 2022
Golpe de Estado (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
V for Vendetta (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:04 on 05 April 2022
Esperanza (8B+)
Added at 10:05 on 07 May 2023
Middle Trifecta (8B, FA)
Added at 10:05 on 07 May 2023
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b)
Added at 17:08 on 04 August 2022
Necessary Evil (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 31 October 2022

Ascents

60 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1996 Super Tweak 8c Lead | worked Jul 1996
1997 Necessary Evil 8c+ Lead | worked 17th Mar 1997
First ascent.

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlUDpmrP4O/?img_index=1

Just Do It 8c+ Lead | worked Apr 1997
3 sessions.

First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/BddU4Qln3au/

1998 Chouca 8a+ Lead | flash 1998
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1998
1999 Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1999
2000
2001 The Mandala 8A+ Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked 18th Jul 2001
First ascent.

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

2002 Biotop 8b+ Lead | onsight 2002

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

2003 Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 1st Jul 2003
The Fly 9a Lead | worked 30th Oct 2003

Chris dropped the last move on his flash attempt.

2004 Ring of Fire 8b+ Deep Water Solo | ground up 2004
Second ascent.
Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked Aug 2004
First ascent.
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Aug 2004
2005 Witness the Fitness 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2005
Dreamcatcher 9a Lead | worked Sep 2005
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

2006 La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Dec 2006
Third ascent.

The day after Eduard Marin made the second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

2007 La Novena Enmienda 9a+ Lead | worked 2007
Three Degrees of Separation 9a Lead | worked 15th Jul 2007
Es Pontas 9a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 26th Sep 2007
2008 Lucifer 8c+ Lead | worked 2008

A very impressive second-go effort. Chris had previously pulled up to the first bolt to check some holds but the decided to try something else, he then came back to it in 2008 and did it first go that day.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/purgatory_rrgpmrp-21440/lucifer-346990

Jumbo Love 9b Lead | worked 11th Sep 2008
Golpe de Estado 9b Lead | worked 17th Dec 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

2009 Spicy Noodle 8c+ Lead | worked 2009
First ascent.
Raindogs 8a Lead | onsight 2009
Demencia Senil 9a+ Lead | worked Feb 2009
First ascent.
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 29th May 2009
First ascent.
Neanderthal 9b Lead | worked 18th Dec 2009
2010 Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
Samfaina 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
Analógica 9a+ Lead | worked Feb 2010
First ascent.
First Ley 9a+ Lead | worked 28th Feb 2010
2011 First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 19th Apr 2011
Fight or Flight 9b Lead | worked 5th May 2011
First ascent.

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

[2] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Chaxi 9a+ Lead | worked 5th May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

References

[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

2012 Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | did not finish 2012
Tierra Negra 9a Lead | worked Oct 2012
2013 Groove Train 8c Lead | worked 2013
Stoking the Fire 9b Lead | worked 6th Feb 2013
First ascent.

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

La Dura Dura 9b+ Lead | worked 23rd Mar 2013
Second ascent.

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

2014
2015 El Bon Combat 9b Lead | worked 7th Mar 2015
2016 Le Blond 9c (approx) Lead | did not finish Between 1st Jan 2016 and 1st Jan 2025
Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ Boulder | worked 2nd Jan 2016
First ascent.
Alasha 9a Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2016
First ascent.
Joe Mama 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2016
2017 Big Fish 8c+ Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022 V for Vendetta 8c Lead | onsight 1st Apr 2022
La Reina Mora 9a Lead | worked Dec 2022
2023 Sleeping Lion 9b Lead | worked 28th Mar 2023
First ascent.

Chris' second 9b+, climbed almost exactly 10 years after he made the second ascent of La Dura Dura.

This whole time I’ve been trying to stay in shape, which has been a huge challenge. I never wanted to let go of my climbing goals. But as the years go by, you start to wonder, are things going to coalesce? Am I just saying that to myself, that I’m still in shape and ready?

...

In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5.15 in life, not just on the rock. So I have this higher-arching goal of climbing at my limit while also being present with my kids, and being present as a husband, and creating these climbing gyms and this TV show. All those other things are way out of my comfort zone, but that’s where a lot of growth and the progression of ourselves comes from.[3]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM

[3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/

[5] https://www.8a.nu/news/a-sleeping-lion-no-more-interview-with-chris-sharma-and-a-look-back-at-his-greatest-ascents-t27s3

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw

[7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion

[8] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8

[9] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX5hkFSM5JU

Black Pearl 9a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 7th Nov 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Le Blond 9c (approx) Lead | did not finish Between 1st Jan 2016 and 1st Jan 2025
La Dura Dura 9b+ Lead | worked 23rd Mar 2013
Second ascent.

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

Jumbo Love 9b Lead | worked 11th Sep 2008
Golpe de Estado 9b Lead | worked 17th Dec 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

Neanderthal 9b Lead | worked 18th Dec 2009 9b
First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 19th Apr 2011 9b
Fight or Flight 9b Lead | worked 5th May 2011
First ascent.

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

[2] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Stoking the Fire 9b Lead | worked 6th Feb 2013 9b
First ascent.

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

El Bon Combat 9b Lead | worked 7th Mar 2015 9b/9b+
Sleeping Lion 9b Lead | worked 28th Mar 2023 9b+
First ascent.

Chris' second 9b+, climbed almost exactly 10 years after he made the second ascent of La Dura Dura.

This whole time I’ve been trying to stay in shape, which has been a huge challenge. I never wanted to let go of my climbing goals. But as the years go by, you start to wonder, are things going to coalesce? Am I just saying that to myself, that I’m still in shape and ready?

...

In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5.15 in life, not just on the rock. So I have this higher-arching goal of climbing at my limit while also being present with my kids, and being present as a husband, and creating these climbing gyms and this TV show. All those other things are way out of my comfort zone, but that’s where a lot of growth and the progression of ourselves comes from.[3]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM

[3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/

[5] https://www.8a.nu/news/a-sleeping-lion-no-more-interview-with-chris-sharma-and-a-look-back-at-his-greatest-ascents-t27s3

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw

[7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion

[8] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8

[9] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX5hkFSM5JU

Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | did not finish 2012
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked 18th Jul 2001
First ascent.

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Demencia Senil 9a+ Lead | worked Feb 2009
First ascent.
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 29th May 2009
First ascent.
Analógica 9a+ Lead | worked Feb 2010
First ascent.
First Ley 9a+ Lead | worked 28th Feb 2010
Papichulo 9a+ Lead | worked
First ascent.
Gancho Perfecto 9a+ Lead | worked
La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Dec 2006
Third ascent.

The day after Eduard Marin made the second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

La Novena Enmienda 9a+ Lead | worked 2007
Chaxi 9a+ Lead | worked 5th May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

References

[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Joe Mama 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2016
Mutation 9a+ Lead | did not finish

I will never climb this route.

Dreamcatcher 9a Lead | worked Sep 2005
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

Three Degrees of Separation 9a Lead | worked 15th Jul 2007 9a
Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
Samfaina 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
Tierra Negra 9a Lead | worked Oct 2012
The Fly 9a Lead | worked 30th Oct 2003

Chris dropped the last move on his flash attempt.

La Reina Mora 9a Lead | worked Dec 2022
Necessary Evil 8c+ Lead | worked 17th Mar 1997
First ascent.

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlUDpmrP4O/?img_index=1

Spicy Noodle 8c+ Lead | worked 2009
First ascent.
Just Do It 8c+ Lead | worked Apr 1997
3 sessions.

First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/BddU4Qln3au/

Lucifer 8c+ Lead | worked 2008

A very impressive second-go effort. Chris had previously pulled up to the first bolt to check some holds but the decided to try something else, he then came back to it in 2008 and did it first go that day.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/purgatory_rrgpmrp-21440/lucifer-346990

Super Tweak 8c Lead | worked Jul 1996
Groove Train 8c Lead | worked 2013
V for Vendetta 8c Lead | onsight 1st Apr 2022
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1998
Biotop 8b+ Lead | onsight 2002

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

Chouca 8a+ Lead | flash 1998
Raindogs 8a Lead | onsight 2009
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Witness the Fitness 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2005
Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked Aug 2004
First ascent.
Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ Boulder | worked 2nd Jan 2016
First ascent.
The Never Ending Story (Part 1+2) 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Aug 2004 8B+
Off the Wagon 8B+ Boulder | did not finish

Chris came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the campus move to the slot.

Esperanza 8B+ Boulder | worked
Middle Trifecta 8B Boulder | worked
Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1999
The Mandala 8A+ Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.
The Buttermilker 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 1st Jul 2003
Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked

In June!

Evilution to the Lip 7C+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Es Pontas 9a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 26th Sep 2007
Black Pearl 9a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 7th Nov 2023
Alasha 9a Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2016
First ascent.
Big Fish 8c+ Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2017 8c+/9a
Ring of Fire 8b+ Deep Water Solo | ground up 2004
Second ascent.