Chris Sharma


Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23 April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23 April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:03 on 05 March 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Fight or Flight (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
La Dura Dura (9b+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Witness the Fitness (8C, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
First Round, First Minute (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
El Bon Combat (9b, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 21 December 2020
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
Added at 22:02 on 15 February 2021
Le Blond (9c)
Added at 15:06 on 29 June 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Dreamcatcher (9a, FA)
Added at 08:09 on 05 September 2021
La Novena Enmienda (9a+)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
Gancho Perfecto (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 29 April 2021
Stoking the Fire (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:01 on 04 January 2022
Golpe de Estado (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
Super Tweak (8c)
Added at 08:05 on 29 May 2021
© Jim Thornburg
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
V for Vendetta (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:04 on 05 April 2022

Ascents

38 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1996 Super Tweak 8c (Lead) 01 Jul 1996 (approx)

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/sport-why-kid-grinning/

1997 Necessary Evil 8c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years at the time of making this ascent, at the time the hardest route in the US.

Just Do It 8c+ (Lead) 01 Apr 1997 (approx)

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

1998 To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) 15 Apr 1998 (approx)
1999
2000
2001 The Mandala 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2001 (approx)
Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 18 Jul 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

2002
2003
2004
2005 Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) 01 Sep 2005 (approx)

https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

2006 La Rambla Extension 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

Ring of Fire 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) 01 Jan 2006 (approx)

Second ascent.

2007 La Novena Enmienda 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (Lead) 15 Jul 2007

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html

Es Pontas 9a+ (Deep Water Solo) 26 Sep 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM8gO4IDN_s

https://www.instagram.com/p/COAgRrAK5ct/

2008 Jumbo Love 9b (Lead) 11 Sep 2008

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317

Golpe de Estado 9b (Lead) 17 Dec 2008

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

2009 Raindogs 8a (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)
Demencia Senil 9a+ (Lead) 01 Feb 2009 (approx)
Pachamama 9a+ (Lead) 29 May 2009
Neanderthal 9b (Lead) 18 Dec 2009

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

2010 Era Vella 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2010 (approx)
Samfaina 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2010 (approx)
First Ley 9a+ (Lead) 28 Feb 2010

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530

2011 First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 19 Apr 2011

Chris suggested hard 9b.

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU

Fight or Flight 9b (Lead) 05 May 2011

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Chaxi 9a+ (Lead) 05 May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

2012
2013 Stoking the Fire 9b (Lead) 06 Feb 2013

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

La Dura Dura 9b+ (Lead) 23 Mar 2013

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

2014
2015 El Bon Combat 9b (Lead) 07 Mar 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

2016 Le Blond 9c (Lead Did not finish) 01 Jan 2016 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k

Alasha 9a (Deep Water Solo) 01 Sep 2016 (approx)
Joe Mama 9a+ (Lead) 12 Oct 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/chris_sharma_does_joe_mama_9a+-70736

2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022 V for Vendetta 8c (Lead Onsight) 01 Apr 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-L2nqlCOM/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Le Blond 9c (Lead Did not finish) 01 Jan 2016 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k

La Dura Dura 9b+ (Lead) 23 Mar 2013

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

Jumbo Love 9b (Lead) 11 Sep 2008

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317

Golpe de Estado 9b (Lead) 17 Dec 2008

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

Neanderthal 9b (Lead) 18 Dec 2009 9b

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 19 Apr 2011 9b

Chris suggested hard 9b.

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU

Fight or Flight 9b (Lead) 05 May 2011

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Stoking the Fire 9b (Lead) 06 Feb 2013

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

El Bon Combat 9b (Lead) 07 Mar 2015 9b/9b+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 18 Jul 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Demencia Senil 9a+ (Lead) 01 Feb 2009 (approx)
Pachamama 9a+ (Lead) 29 May 2009
First Ley 9a+ (Lead) 28 Feb 2010

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530

Papichulo 9a+ (Lead)
Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (Lead)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-nBGhLMGPM

La Rambla Extension 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

La Novena Enmienda 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY

Chaxi 9a+ (Lead) 05 May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Joe Mama 9a+ (Lead) 12 Oct 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/chris_sharma_does_joe_mama_9a+-70736

Mutation 9a+ (Lead Did not finish)

I will never climb this route.

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) 01 Sep 2005 (approx)

https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (Lead) 15 Jul 2007 9a

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html

Era Vella 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2010 (approx)
Samfaina 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2010 (approx)
Necessary Evil 8c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years at the time of making this ascent, at the time the hardest route in the US.

Just Do It 8c+ (Lead) 01 Apr 1997 (approx)

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

Super Tweak 8c (Lead) 01 Jul 1996 (approx)

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/sport-why-kid-grinning/

V for Vendetta 8c (Lead Onsight) 01 Apr 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-L2nqlCOM/

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) 15 Apr 1998 (approx)
Raindogs 8a (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ (Boulder)
Off the Wagon 8B+ (Boulder Did not finish)

Chris came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the campus move to the slot.

The Buttermilker 8B (Boulder)
The Mandala 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2001 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Es Pontas 9a+ (Deep Water Solo) 26 Sep 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM8gO4IDN_s

https://www.instagram.com/p/COAgRrAK5ct/

Alasha 9a (Deep Water Solo) 01 Sep 2016 (approx)
Ring of Fire 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) 01 Jan 2006 (approx)

Second ascent.