Chris Sharma


Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Dave Graham
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Daila Ojeda
Dave Graham
Social Media

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.

More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas and Alasha, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:03 on 05 March 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Biographie (9a+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Gancho Perfecto (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
El Bon Combat (9b, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 21 December 2020
Witness the Fitness (8C, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
Added at 22:02 on 15 February 2021
Le Blond (9c)
Added at 15:06 on 29 June 2021
La Novena Enmienda (9a+)
Added at 08:07 on 03 July 2021
Fight or Flight (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Golpe de Estado (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
Dreamcatcher (9a, FA)
Added at 08:09 on 05 September 2021
V for Vendetta (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:04 on 05 April 2022
Super Tweak (8c)
Added at 08:05 on 29 May 2021
© Jim Thornburg
La Dura Dura (9b+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Stoking the Fire (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:01 on 04 January 2022
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:01 on 06 January 2022
Es Pontas (9a+, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 29 April 2021
First Round, First Minute (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b)
Added at 17:08 on 04 August 2022
Necessary Evil (8c+, FA)
Added at 12:10 on 31 October 2022
Necessary Evil (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 31 October 2022

Ascents

45 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1996 Super Tweak 8c (Lead) July 1996

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/sport-why-kid-grinning/

1997 Necessary Evil 8c+ (Lead) 17th March 1997

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

Just Do It 8c+ (Lead) April 1997

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

1998 To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) April 1998
1999 Slashface 8B (Boulder) 1999
2000
2001 The Mandala 8A+ (Boulder) 2001
Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 18th July 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

2002
2003 Massive Attack 8A+ (Boulder Flash) 1st July 2003
2004 Ring of Fire 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) 2004

Second ascent.

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) August 2004
Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder) August 2004
2005 Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) March 2005

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CgANjR9DSR3/

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) September 2005

https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

2006 La Rambla Extension 9a+ (Lead) 2006

Third ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

2007 La Novena Enmienda 9a+ (Lead) 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (Lead) 15th July 2007

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html

Es Pontas 9a+ (Deep Water Solo) 26th September 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM8gO4IDN_s

https://www.instagram.com/p/COAgRrAK5ct/

2008 Jumbo Love 9b (Lead) 11th September 2008

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317

Golpe de Estado 9b (Lead) 17th December 2008

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

2009 Raindogs 8a (Lead Onsight) 2009
Spicy Noodle 8c+ (Lead) 2009
Demencia Senil 9a+ (Lead) February 2009
Pachamama 9a+ (Lead) 29th May 2009
Neanderthal 9b (Lead) 18th December 2009

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

2010 Era Vella 9a (Lead) 2010
Samfaina 9a (Lead) 2010
Analógica 9a+ (Lead) February 2010
First Ley 9a+ (Lead) 28th February 2010

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530

2011 First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 19th April 2011

Chris suggested hard 9b.

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU

Fight or Flight 9b (Lead) 5th May 2011

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Chaxi 9a+ (Lead) 5th May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

2012 Ratstaman Vibrations 9b (Lead Did not finish) 2012

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBM5bu_hxM8

2013 Stoking the Fire 9b (Lead) 6th February 2013

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

La Dura Dura 9b+ (Lead) 23rd March 2013

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

2014
2015 El Bon Combat 9b (Lead) 7th March 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

2016 Le Blond 9c (Lead Did not finish) 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ (Boulder) 2nd January 2016
Alasha 9a (Deep Water Solo) September 2016
Joe Mama 9a+ (Lead) October 2016

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/chris_sharma_does_joe_mama_9a+-70736

2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022 V for Vendetta 8c (Lead Onsight) 1st April 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-L2nqlCOM/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Le Blond 9c (Lead Did not finish) 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k

La Dura Dura 9b+ (Lead) 23rd March 2013

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

Jumbo Love 9b (Lead) 11th September 2008

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317

Golpe de Estado 9b (Lead) 17th December 2008

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

Neanderthal 9b (Lead) 18th December 2009 9b

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 19th April 2011 9b

Chris suggested hard 9b.

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU

Fight or Flight 9b (Lead) 5th May 2011

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Stoking the Fire 9b (Lead) 6th February 2013

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

El Bon Combat 9b (Lead) 7th March 2015 9b/9b+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

Ratstaman Vibrations 9b (Lead Did not finish) 2012

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBM5bu_hxM8

Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 18th July 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Demencia Senil 9a+ (Lead) February 2009
Pachamama 9a+ (Lead) 29th May 2009
Analógica 9a+ (Lead) February 2010
First Ley 9a+ (Lead) 28th February 2010

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530

Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (Lead)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-nBGhLMGPM

Papichulo 9a+ (Lead)
La Rambla Extension 9a+ (Lead) 2006

Third ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

La Novena Enmienda 9a+ (Lead) 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY

Chaxi 9a+ (Lead) 5th May 2011

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Joe Mama 9a+ (Lead) October 2016

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/chris_sharma_does_joe_mama_9a+-70736

Mutation 9a+ (Lead Did not finish)

I will never climb this route.

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) September 2005

https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (Lead) 15th July 2007 9a

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html

Era Vella 9a (Lead) 2010
Samfaina 9a (Lead) 2010
Necessary Evil 8c+ (Lead) 17th March 1997

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

Spicy Noodle 8c+ (Lead) 2009
Just Do It 8c+ (Lead) April 1997

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

Super Tweak 8c (Lead) July 1996

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/sport-why-kid-grinning/

V for Vendetta 8c (Lead Onsight) 1st April 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-L2nqlCOM/

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) April 1998
Raindogs 8a (Lead Onsight) 2009
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) March 2005

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CgANjR9DSR3/

Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder) August 2004
Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ (Boulder) 2nd January 2016
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) August 2004 8B+
Off the Wagon 8B+ (Boulder Did not finish)

Chris came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the campus move to the slot.

The Buttermilker 8B (Boulder)
Slashface 8B (Boulder) 1999
The Mandala 8A+ (Boulder) 2001
Massive Attack 8A+ (Boulder Flash) 1st July 2003
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Es Pontas 9a+ (Deep Water Solo) 26th September 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM8gO4IDN_s

https://www.instagram.com/p/COAgRrAK5ct/

Alasha 9a (Deep Water Solo) September 2016
Ring of Fire 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) 2004

Second ascent.