Mutation | 9a+ Sport route at Raven Tor

First ascent. 24 sessions.

A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route (Zeke the Freak in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the grade by a British person.

It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.

The first time I did that move from the ground, I did the route, but I only did the last move by the skin of my teeth. I'm pretty sure a gust of wind blew me up that last move...

Steve's diary [2]

Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route.

7th October 1998, day 22:

Yet another failed day. Getting annoying now! Feel as though I should be doing better. Maybe I am getting a ‘head’ problem on ‘that’ move. Today I had 2 RP efforts, first go was the best, swinging over to the pinch but not getting the distance. 2nd go was rubbish. No psyche and hardly tried. Evo is feeling a path, but that cross is just a killer! Today I got Myles (Gibson) up there for a look, and with his fingers his opinion on moves is really important. He found it nails too, and no info change really (would have been nice if he found an easier way!). He reckoned 8b at least for the extension if not more, so it means the route could be overall 9a. That’s probably why I’m not getting up it!

10th October 1998, day 23:

THAT move FOUR times today! Excellent conditions. I’m wasting them! They will run out soon for sure. Not sure about the head problem except I expect to fail now. I set off knowing I’ll get to that move, and fall off that move. But I still think I’m trying hard enough, even on the move. Its just so momentum orientated. I need to have the movement pattern in my mind and not just try and static it. I’m sure it will go. Spent ages fiddling with the move and found perhaps a slightly easier way of swinging it, but only slightly, and probably not at all really. But that top section is still so hard. Today after each go I climbed the top section to keep it fresh. I could for sure drop that bit! Just need to keep plugging away.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/

[2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor

[3] Rupert Davies and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/

[5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/

Ryan has tried the route extensively over the course of a few years.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVz-nKpoCuB/

Second ascent. 40 sessions.

The long awaited second ascent after 4 years and 40 sessions.

Finally! This was by far and away my longest project on a route and I am so happy to clip the chains. It is so typical of the redpointing game that the route went down on the last go of the day with little expectation that I would send it! Full credit to Steve McClure on an amazing first ascent and for establishing a climb with such amazing moves. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_repeat_of_mutation_9a_by_will_bosi_proposes_9a+-72918

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVxr19WLZRL/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVxrF8ZoBB8/

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBDqpUKgAyE

I will never climb this route.