| From | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
| Gender | Male |
| Climbing | |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked) | 8B+ |
| Hardest Sport (Worked) | 9a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash) | 8a+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked) | E9 |
| World Cups | |
| 🥇 | 1 |
| 🥉 | 1 |
| Appearances | 13 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Jerry Moffatt | |
| Ben Moon | |
Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of Hubble in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world.
He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]
He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as Monk Life (8B+) and Pilgrimage (8B+). His traverses Lothlorian (8c+) and Leviathan (9a) remain unrepeated.
Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.
As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on School Room 50° Board remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.
[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?
[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard
[3] Stone Love
[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith
| From | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
| Gender | Male |
| Climbing | |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked) | 8B+ |
| Hardest Sport (Worked) | 9a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash) | 8a+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked) | E9 |
| World Cups | |
| 🥇 | 1 |
| 🥉 | 1 |
| Appearances | 13 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Jerry Moffatt | |
| Ben Moon | |
Malcolm Smith is a Scottish boulderer and sport climber who was primarily active between 1990 and 2010. As an early adherent of training, and specifically training boards, he put his strength to excellent use putting up many of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. He burst onto the scene with his quick second ascent of Hubble in 1992 aged just 18, at the time one of the hardest routes in the world.
He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]
He went on to climb some the last great problems in the UK such as Monk Life (8B+) and Pilgrimage (8B+). His traverses Lothlorian (8c+) and Leviathan (9a) remain unrepeated.
Alongside his hard bouldering, he repeated many of the hardest sport routes of the time including making the second ascent of Evolution at Raven Tor, the second ascent of Progress at Kilnsey as well as early repeats of Bat Route and Cry Freedom at Malham Cove. In 2010 he established Scotland's first 9a with his ascent of Hunger at The Anvil.
As dedicated to training as to climbing outdoors, his testpieces on School Room 50° Board remain benchmarks of raw power and went unrepeated for years.
[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?
[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard
[3] Stone Love
[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith