Malcolm Smith

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Scotland's first 9a.

References

[1] https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

2nd ascent.

An early, fast repeat.

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/malc_smith_climbs_unjustified_8c_-_malham-44629

Fourth redpoint of the day.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

1st redpoint.

http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEoMeB7EpA8

Early 90s.

At the time I didn't have to do any special training for it, it was well within my level. [3]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6245846

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

[3] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/DFgDPa2tb8P/?img_index=2

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DOynhvkgGxW/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/smith_repeats_dreamtime-73118

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5098601

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGOjvukty_D/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=447667

References

[1]https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

https://vimeo.com/11089789

https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html

Less than half an hour

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6362.msg89768.html#msg89768

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 108, page 60.

Chris Sharma was close to getting the third ascent in the same session, but the team were arrested for parking in the wrong place before he was able to seal the deal. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 112, page 16.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/malcolm_smith_repeats_8_ball_font_8b-1801

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

References

[1] 6th go, shortly followed by The Ace and the same day as Careless Torque,

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1438499346354592&set=pcb.1438500846354442

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

References

[1] https://youtu.be/ngQbNJeCVls?t=101

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4

With a 10lb weight belt!

References

[1] Email correspondence