Malcolm Smith


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon
Social Media

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?si=42c01ce82102438f

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

Contributors: remus

Lists


Pics + Vids

Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 21:01 on 16 January 2023
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) (8B, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 23 February 2024
Careless Torque (8A)
Added at 00:02 on 01 February 2024
Monk Life (8B+, FA)
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
Powerband (7C)
Added at 10:01 on 07 January 2021
Firefight (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Magnetic Fields (8b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:01 on 22 January 2023
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022
Pas de Deux (8a+)
Added at 08:04 on 13 April 2022
Gut Buster (8B+, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

Ascents

34 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1991 Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked 4th May 1991

Fourth redpoint of the day.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

1992 Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
1993 Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1993

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

1994 Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
1995 Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000 Transform 8c Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
2001 Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2001
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

2002
2003 Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 2003
2004 Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | worked 2004
First ascent.
Director's Cut 8B Boulder | worked 2004
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2004
2005 The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
2006
2007 Metalcore 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2007

2nd ascent.

True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2007
The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.
2008 Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2008
Gut Buster 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2008
2009
2010 Firefight 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2010
Pas de Deux 8a+ Lead | worked 18th May 2010
Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.
Hunger 9a Lead | worked 7th Jul 2010
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hunger 9a Lead | worked 7th Jul 2010
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
Metalcore 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2007

2nd ascent.

Transform 8c Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1993

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2007
The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2008
Dr Crimp 8b+ Lead | worked
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked 4th May 1991

Fourth redpoint of the day.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

Pas de Deux 8a+ Lead | worked 18th May 2010
Energy Vampire 8a+ Lead | flash

Early 90s.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 2003
Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | worked 2004 9a
First ascent.
Gut Buster 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2008
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2004 8C
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
Firefight 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2010
Director's Cut 8B Boulder | worked 2004
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2001
Pinch 2 8A+ Boulder | worked
Halfway House 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Muttertag 8A Boulder | worked

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

Powerband 7C Boulder | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade