Malcolm Smith

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Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors: remus
Added on 14th November 2020. Last updated on 4th October 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Ben Moon

An early adherent of training on a woody who put his strength to excellent use, putting up many of the hardest problems in the UK from the early 90s to early 2000s. Notably he made the second ascent of Hubble aged just 18, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson:

He had the strength of character to turn his back on the tradition of climbing, the summit and the romance, and do his own thing. As he says, he's always got time for more training. [1]

References

[1] Dave Cuthbertson interview with Niall Grimes on The Jam Crack Podcast Jan 2023. 1hr13mins. https://open.spotify.com/episode/2cj6Zduv5LRmqwotmqg5Nd?

[2] Splinter, a short portrait by Ben Pritchard

[3] Stone Love

[4] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Contributors: remus
Added on 14th November 2020. Last updated on 4th October 2024.

Lists


Pics + Vids

Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 21:01 on 16 January 2023
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Progress (8c+)
Added at 09:08 on 13 August 2024
Progress (8c+)
Added at 09:08 on 13 August 2024
Evolution (8c+)
Added at 09:08 on 13 August 2024
Progress (8c+)
Added at 09:08 on 13 August 2024
Evolution (8c+)
Added at 09:08 on 13 August 2024
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) (8B, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 23 February 2024
Careless Torque (8A)
Added at 00:02 on 01 February 2024
Monk Life (8B+, FA)
Added at 07:12 on 22 December 2020
Powerband (7C)
Added at 10:01 on 07 January 2021
Firefight (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Magnetic Fields (8b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:01 on 22 January 2023
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022
Hunger (9a, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022
Pas de Deux (8a+)
Added at 08:04 on 13 April 2022
Gut Buster (8B+, FA)
Added at 20:09 on 22 September 2022

Ascents

40 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1990 Fated Path 7c+ Lead | worked 1990
1991 Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked 4th May 1991

Fourth redpoint of the day.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

1992 Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
1993 Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1993

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

1994 Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
1995 Progress 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
1996
1997
1998 Pongo SDS 8A Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
1999
2000 Northern Lights 9a Lead | did not finish Before 1st Jan 2000
Transform 8c Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
Frank's Wild Years 8A+ Boulder | worked Mar 2000

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 108, page 60.

2001 Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

Turn That Frown Upside Down 8A+ Boulder | worked 2001
Second ascent.

Chris Sharma was close to getting the third ascent in the same session, but the team were arrested for parking in the wrong place before he was able to seal the deal. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 112, page 16.

8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2001
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

2002 UIAA Worldcup - Lecco ...
World Cup
1st 26th June 2002
Int. Event - Arco Rock...
Comp
2nd Boulder (Men) 7th September 2002
UIAA Worldcup - Rovere...
World Cup
3rd Boulder (Men) 14th September 2002
2003 Int. Event - Birmingha...
Comp
1st 16th March 2003
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 2003
First ascent.

At the time I didn't have to do any special training for it, it was well within my level. [3]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6245846

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

[3] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

2004 Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | worked 2004
First ascent.
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
Director's Cut 8A+ Boulder | worked 2004
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2004
2005 The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
2006
2007 Metalcore 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2007

2nd ascent.

True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2007
The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.
2008 Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2008
Gut Buster 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5098601

2009
2010 Firefight 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2010
Pas de Deux 8a+ Lead | worked 18th May 2010
Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.
Hunger 9a Lead | worked 7th Jul 2010
First ascent.

Scotland's first 9a.

References

[1] https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hunger 9a Lead | worked 7th Jul 2010
First ascent.

Scotland's first 9a.

References

[1] https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Scotland's_First_9a!_Malcolm_Smith,_Hunger

Hubble 9a Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
Northern Lights 9a Lead | did not finish Before 1st Jan 2000
Blood Diamond 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Jun 2010
First ascent.
Progress 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
Metalcore 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2007

2nd ascent.

Transform 8c Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
Cry Freedom 8c Lead | worked Jun 1993

An early, fast repeat (date not exact)

True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2007
The Smiddy 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2007
First ascent.
Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2008
Dr Crimp 8b+ Lead | worked
Blackout 8b Lead | worked 19th Sep 2007
First ascent.
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | worked 4th May 1991

Fourth redpoint of the day.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnuOhI_NugM/

Pas de Deux 8a+ Lead | worked 18th May 2010
Energy Vampire 8a+ Lead | flash

Early 90s.

Fated Path 7c+ Lead | worked 1990
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leviathan 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994
First ascent.
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Oct 2003
First ascent.

At the time I didn't have to do any special training for it, it was well within my level. [3]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6245846

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/smith_completes_kyloe-in_project_at_font_8b+-9503

[3] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith

Pilgrimage 8B+ Boulder | worked 2004 9a
First ascent.
Gut Buster 8B+ Boulder | worked Sep 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5098601

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2004 8C
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) 8B Boulder | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 11

Supersize Me 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2005
First ascent.
Firefight 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2010
Mithril 8B Boulder | worked 2004
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 2005
Frank's Wild Years 8A+ Boulder | worked Mar 2000

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 108, page 60.

Turn That Frown Upside Down 8A+ Boulder | worked 2001
Second ascent.

Chris Sharma was close to getting the third ascent in the same session, but the team were arrested for parking in the wrong place before he was able to seal the deal. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 112, page 16.

8 Ball 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2001
Director's Cut 8A+ Boulder | worked 2004
Pinch 2 8A+ Boulder | worked
Pongo SDS 8A Boulder | worked 1998
First ascent.
Halfway House 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
The Joker 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Muttertag 8A Boulder | worked

Got told by a German named Fabian that he showed Malc muttertag n went round to clean the top for him, by the time he'd walked round the boulder Malc met him comin over the top. Then within 20 mins he climbed thro the sit to miss the top hold. He put his boots in his bag n Fabien said what are you doing its one of the best projects here to which Malc replied its not is it n then walked off. src

Powerband 7C Boulder | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade