Strawberries | E7 Trad climb at Tremadog

First ascent.

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Date is a guess but likely some time in the 1980s.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629

Third ascent.

I first tried it in the Spring of '82 on a dismal, damp and grey day. I was less than motivated to try anything that hard on that particular day, but I was climbing with Jerry Moffatt and he is an enthusiastic and persuasive fellow. The attempt ended predictably, low on the pitch, at the technical crux.

My next try was during the International Exchange Meet with the American crew in September '82. I was with the late Alex Lowe that day, climbing pretty well and keen to try it. I think I fell from the crux twice, then got through it and made it really high on the pitch to a place where I could get a shake. At that point I was so gassed that I was not recovering at all, and after a few minutes it was clear that I was not going to make it that try.

There was a big peanut gallery above the Meshach wall, interested in witnessing some sort of spectacle. I remember being far enough above the gear that I was a bit gripped about breaking the RPs, so I asked Alex to keep taking in the rope till he eventually pulled me off, so that the slack was minimized.

The gear held just fine. I rested and did it the next go. Alex enjoyed telling people of how he once got to pull someone off a route at the end of a run-out. These were the days of placing gear as you went and yoyo-ing back to the belay after you fell. Redpointing was not widely practised in '82 and I do not recall whether I pulled the rope or not.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

I fell of the crux onsight putting the gear in in 1985 lowered off and did it after 3 attempts, yo yo style. I then returned a week later leading the route and putting all the gear in in one push. This was the first time all the gear had been put in on lead and the route done in this fashion.

Ian Carr:

Held Dougie’s ropes on this. The famous creaky green single 9mm. On the flash he went for it from gear about 1/2 way up. Only to slip off the final move, ending up at or below me. Not sure about the date. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/craig_bwlch_y_moch_tremadog-221/strawberries-2502

The first onsight of the route and a remarkable effort for it's time.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

Only the second onsight ascent after Stefan Glowacz's excellent effort in 1987.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/05/strawberries_gets_onsighted-62371

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hansjorg-auer-onsights-strawberries-at-tremadog.html

References

[1] https://twitter.com/stemac5a/status/478260353399545857

[2] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/sweet-taste-of-strawberries-for-steve-mcclure

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVItYSLwKo

First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/10/strawberries_e7_6b_for_emma_twyford-69213

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/jim_pope_headpoints_olwen_e9_6c_and_onsights_strawberries_e7_6b-73415

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvsKsmuqG75/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdMCqMtkxGw

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3454948037904680

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c85vuZASrN4