Nightmayer | E8 Trad climb at Dinas Cromlech

The hardest route on Dinas Cromlech. 8a climbing with spicy gear.

Pics + Vids

Nicolas Favresse
Added at 04:05 on 07 May 2023
Steve McClure
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Rachel Pearce
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:06 on 21 June 2023


7 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Steve Mayers Lead (Worked) Jun 1992
Tim Emmett Lead (Worked) Jul 1996

Second ascent?

Nicolas Favresse Lead (Did not finish) 2008

An unsuccessful onsight attempt that ended with a memorable whipper.

Talking about E8 on-sights - you took a whipper down Nightmare on Dinas Cromlech…

Yes, it was my first day climbing in the UK. I was still virgin to this type of climbing so still a bit ignorant! The famous old school local climber Pat Littlejohn was climbing next to us and had seen me looking easy on climbs. Nightmare E8 6c was a good looking line so I decided to try it. I mentioned to Sean [Villanueva O’Driscoll] that I would first try it on toprope but Pat said to Sean: "If there is somebody here who is able to give a good try ground up it's him." When Sean told me this I thought it would be good to follow this wise local climber's suggestion. The route was completely dirty so Sean first went up to clean the route a bit and look at the gear. The climbing was really nice with a style of climbing that I like particularly, crimpy and dead vertical. But the climb was still very dirty with poor gear on the first part of the climb. After a few good pieces of pro midway up the wall the crux arrived at the upper section. While searching for other pro I got too pumped to keep on climbing and so I fell. The piece I thought would hold didn't, it ripped out and so I unexpectedly fell a long way down the wall. 3 pieces ripped and I was stopped upside down about 20 meters below by a good wire. Afterwards people talked about this fall a lot, even though for me it was just an unsuccessful try. [2]




Alex Mason Lead (Worked) 10th Jun 2016
Emma Twyford Lead (Worked) Jul 2018

Steve McClure Lead (Onsight) 2019

Rachel Pearce Lead (Worked) 13th Jun 2023

Journey of the cromlech complete :( what an experience, from the first time I tried it i couldn’t stop smiling. It’s everything I love about the cromlech. The most psyched for a route I have ever been on trad. I sort of didn’t want to lead it because I didn’t want it to end, but then the weather is so good now that I feel I’m missing out on the mountain crags. 6 sessions, touch and go but went down on the first lead. Hottest day of the year, I like being warm? leading it made me realise what a bad ass Steve Mac is, incredible. Found a white tri cam at the top under the sky hooks that made the ending quite safe imo.