Yma O Hyd | E10/8c+ Trad climb at Gallt Yr Ogof

First ascent. Belayed by Darren McMaster.

The hard version was a rollercoaster and also sometimes felt hard to imagine, just incredibly pumpy. In July I crept higher and higher and it looked like it could go any session, we used tin foil over the 'always' wet hold but it would often become damp so it was far from a perfect solution.

I was living on mackerel and salmon salads all July; totally hate the stuff now. At first, I was only fit enough for one go, then eventually two good goes. July left, then August and I started to accept I might not do it this year and perhaps not at all, but I looked on the bright side of it getting me in the best shape I'd been in since 2011, the year I did Big Bang.

I eventually managed three good goes doing about an F8c three times, trained afterwards and felt steely, but the one good go eluded me for a few more sessions, partly due to shit conditions and I became uncertain if I'd do it. I always hit such a wall a bit beyond the flat hold on Mission right beneath the crux. As it was when I latched the crimp which had eluded me on my three best attempts I was super close to dropping the next two moves too. It felt f**king desperate. [4]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_3MO16NfL1/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_3gvY7NULN/?img_index=1

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_7m8CWtcPk/

[4] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/mchaffie-makes-first-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a-north-wales-hardest-trad-route/

Second ascent. Belayed by Darren McMaster. 6 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DBIuK_Mt8ji/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/steve_mcclure_makes_second_ascent_of_yma_o_hyd_e10_7a-73823

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/steve-mcclure-gets-second-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a/