Climbers

References

[1] https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-japanese-crusher-shinichiro-nomura/

Leo Houlding is a british climber, mountaineer and adventurer. Initially known for his hard trad climbing in the UK, particularly in North Wales and the Peak District, he quickly moved on to climbing big walls in Yosemite with very impressive ascents such as his near-onsight of El Niño. He then moved on to more remote big walls from Greenland to Antarctica.

References

[1] Houlding, L. (2022). Closer to the Edge: Climbing to the Ends of the Earth. United Kingdom: Headline.

[2] Top Gear segment, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKLsBk5CijQ

Robbie is a Scottish all rounder. He is particularly experienced with long/big wall free routes, including the Alpine Trilogy of three iconic 8b+ multipitches: Silbergeier, Des Kaisers neue Kleider and End of Silence.

Vadim Timonov is somewhat of an enigma in global climbing. Due to his Russian citizenship it makes travel inaccessible for him. Despite this he boasts a wealth of hard boulder ascents, including Monkey Wedding 8C/V15 and The Understanding 8C/V15. He has also flashed Mirta 8B+/V14.

In 2022 Vadim begun projecting Blackflip SDS and in May 2023 he got the first ascent giving it 8C+/9A and later retro upgrading it to 9A/V17.

John Alcock:

The news of Pete's death was emotional for me. He and his friends had a profound influence on my young life, while getting to know my Dad had a profound influence on him.

My Mum and Dad had been keen climbers in the 40s and 50s, but had given up climbing when my sister and I were born. When we started to show an interest in the late 60s/early 70s, my Dad booked a week's guiding with Pete to learn about modern equipment such as nylon ropes, hemp waist lines and chockstone runners, though of course we were still using waist belays, had no harnesses, no nuts and the accepted rule was that "the leader must not fall." They got on from the start: both driven, self-made, working class men who'd won scholarships to Oxford.

My Dad (Professor Leslie Alcock) was one of the country's leading archaeologists and Pete became fascinated by the subject. His focus switched with remarkable speed from climbing to archaeology. With the same passionate, ruthless, single-mindedness that he'd brought to new-routing, he rebuilt his life around archaeology. My Dad helped guide him on his new path.

For me, however, their friendship had very different consequences. Pete kindly allowed me to spend large parts of my summers living in his home in Deiniolen grabbing every opportunity to climb that I could. I believe that I earned my keep by sometimes baby-sitting his children Patrick and Angharad. Unqualified of course, but perhaps I was more responsible than many adults on the North Wales climbing scene at that time.

It was quite an eye-opener for a church-going, scouting, goody two shoes from suburban Cardiff who hadn't yet reached his teens. Pete lived a relatively "normal" life, but the Byronesque Jim Perrin spent time there apparently hiding from the police and angry women.. He emerged to take me up Cloggy and play "let's go continental" with the wild Al Harris. If we saw a car we thought was being driven by Al approaching on the narrow twisting road to Llanberis, Jim would immediately switch to the wrong side of the track to see who would blink first. Somehow we survived. For the first time I was exposed to a rebellious, swearing, irreligious, womanising, drink and drug-taking disorganised gang of individuals- many of whom were brilliant, bold climbers. I never looked back.

Although his focus was now elsewhere, Pete sometimes took me climbing in the Pass and on Cloggy. Evenings were often spent wandering the then deserted slate quarries beneath his house or bouldering at Fach Wen. Other climbing legends like Joe Brown and Martin Boysen sometimes joined Pete, Jim, Al and others. For all his ability to battle his way up audacious routes, Pete was a useless technician compared to climbers like Boysen and Harris.

I have vivid memories of Pete's wedding to Liz- me somewhat awestruck surrounded by my climbing inspirations. My Dad and I spent the morning drinking Bloody Marys. By early afternoon we were pretty pissed so decided to go for a walk up Snowdon to "clear the air". To Pete's bemusement we asked if he had a rope we could take as we always carried a rope on the hills in Scotland. He gave us an old tatty climbing rope he used as a car tow rope. We staggered off up the Miners Track and before long found ourselves using the rope to rescue a walker who'd fallen two hundred feet down one of the Trinity Gullies. Amazingly he only had two cracked ankles, so we lowered him to Glaslyn to await the trained and sober MRT. We then wobbled back to Pete's wedding party to resume our drinking.

Of course I hero-worshiped Pete and his friends. Pete gave me a tatty white chest harness he'd used on North Faces in the Dolomites, the battered shoes he used to climb the Boldest, the oiled wool sweater he wore in some of the iconic John Cleare photos in Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia. I wish I still had them. For all his extreme competitiveness, sharp tongue and fierce intellect, Pete was always kind, supportive and generous to me. They were attributes shared by my Dad, so I guess I knew how to cope.

In 1974/75, when I was 14 Pete and I teamed up to help my Dad excavate Castle Rock Dumbarton. We used our climbing skills to work on the steep slopes outside the castle walls. Evenings were spent occasionally doing routes on the cliffs below, but more often traversing Glasgow's famous Finnieston Walls.

After that I saw less of Pete though my Dad kept in close touch. What remained with me though was the inspiration of Pete's boldness, ambition and drive. Being a tiny, insignificant part of that vibrant North Wales scene for a short while helped fire the enthusiasm to climb which remains with me today. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/pete_crew-138403

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/pete_crew_-_rip-783907

[3] Obituary by his son Patrick Crew, August 2025 https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1FGC2W817j/?mibextid=wwXIfr

[4] https://www.climber.co.uk/people/peter-crew-the-climbing-years/

[5] Pete Crew: 'Trumph of the Will' by Mick Ward (2025) https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/pete_crew_triumph_of_the_will-16574

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/how_tim_clifford_tamed_the_wild_west-65

Neil Gresham is a British climber who is notable for his hard trad. ascents, including early repeats of test pieces such as Johnny Dawes' Indian Face E9 and Neil Bentley's Equilibrium E10 as well as making his own contributions to hard trad in the uk with routes such as Lexicon E11 and Final Score E10.

As well as his trad. climbing Neil was an early adopter of deep water soloing in the UK, establishing some of the harder DWS lines in the UK such as

• Cutlass 8a
• Excalibur 8a
• San Simian 8a
• Hydrotherapy 8a+
• Olympiad 8b

References

[1] Interview with Dave MacLeod 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2wgXc_blao

[2] Interview with Niall Grimes part 1, 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/4H9lcr8Fp4lR6lMMmJa8Yt?

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes part 2, 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCwXDQiDfIM

Pete Oxley was a prolific first ascentionist in the dorset area and was one of the driving forces behind the growth of sport climbing on the south coast of England before he moved away from the area in 2005. He's put up over 800 new routes in areas such as Portland, Lulworth and Swanage as well as (slightly) further afield in Avon, Cheddar and The Peak District.

References

[1] Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast.

References

[1] Features in La Obsesión

[2] Interview with 8a.nu, 2018 https://www.8a.nu/news/dani-andrada-4-015-routes-and-boulders-8a-or-harder

North wales based crusher and first British woman to climb 9a (skipping 8c+!) with her ascet of Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn in 2019.

References

[1] https://climbingaway.fr/en/climbers/griffin-whiteside

[2] https://kitkaclimbing.com/blog/griffin-whiteside-talks-about-route-setting-and-boulder-competitions/

Bleausard, legend.

Success in climbing is just the tip of the iceberg. The most important thing for me is how to deal with such an important passion and also the rest of life. I am lucky to have had 5 children, and none of them never ever climbed, so at home at least I'm just a human trying to surf on the waves of life. This is a way harder than the most difficult boulder I ever climbed. [1]

References

[1] Interview in The Project Magazine, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/5/13/jacky-godoffe-interview

[2] Bleau https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIreNKro7QU

[3] http://www.grimporama.com/francais/bleau/itw/bl_jg-interview.htm

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5SisJOwqwhllLtqX0yZXrb?

[2] Podcast with Sonnie Trotter, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDX7_mDDTmE

Star of the film Hard Grit, scaring (and scarring) audiences with his bold ascents.

Jean-minh Trin-Thieu:

I know how weak he is and I can't understand how he is able to do these routes. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 31