Tom Proctor

Also known as: Clark and The Hydraulic Man

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 1st September 1947
Date of death: 9th September 2001
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Geoff Birtles

An influential climber in the UKs Peak District throughout the 1960s and 70s.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/09/tom_proctor_dies-1249

[2] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 1st September 1947
Date of death: 9th September 2001
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Geoff Birtles

An influential climber in the UKs Peak District throughout the 1960s and 70s.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/09/tom_proctor_dies-1249

[2] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Menopause (E5)
Added at 08:12 on 03 December 2021

Ascents

21 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1967 Wee Doris E4 Lead 1967
First ascent.

Some aid.

Scoop Wall E2 Lead 1967
First ascent.
1968 Oedipus! Ring Your Mother E4 Solo | worked 1968
First ascent.
Our Father E4 Lead | worked Jun 1968
First ascent.

At the time one of the hardest routes in the country. Tom led the line with only 3 pieces of protection, a worrying thought for the modern climbers! [3]

References

[1] http://smhccg.org/rock-climbing/mick-ward/

[2] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[3] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

1969 Green Death E5 Lead | worked 1969
First ascent.

You did GREEN DEATH E5, was that an epic?

That was a turning point. I realised then that I could climb blank rock, because when you get to it, it's not blank. From below you just look up and don't see the holds, but you've got to literally, get a rope, and go down and have a look. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991), David Jones, page 38

1970 Green Death E5 Lead | onsight 1970
First ascent.

Tom nabbed also nabbed the first winter ascent of this very fickle line in the early 1970s.

1971 Jermyn Street E5 Lead 1971
First ascent.
1972
1973
1974
1975 Great Arête E5 Solo 1975
First ascent.
Bubbles Wall E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.

Tom originally started up an adjacent route but later added the current and more direct start.

Jasper E3 Lead | onsight 1975
First ascent.

First free ascent.

1976 Mortlock's Arete E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
1977 Circe E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Hard Cheddar E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
1978
1979 Scarab E6 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Cabbage Crack E4 Lead 1979
First ascent.
A Little Extra 7a+ Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Rubicon 7a Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Traffic Jam E5 Lead Mar 1979
First ascent.
Menopause E5 Lead | did not finish Nov 1979

Tom stopped climbing after he sustained a tendon injury while attempting to make the first free ascent. He went on to become a caver.

1980 Jasper E3 Lead | repeat 1980
First ascent.

First re-ascent after a big flake came off.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
A Little Extra 7a+ Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Rubicon 7a Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Scarab E6 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Green Death E5 Lead | worked 1969
First ascent.

You did GREEN DEATH E5, was that an epic?

That was a turning point. I realised then that I could climb blank rock, because when you get to it, it's not blank. From below you just look up and don't see the holds, but you've got to literally, get a rope, and go down and have a look. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991), David Jones, page 38

Green Death E5 Lead | onsight 1970
First ascent.

Tom nabbed also nabbed the first winter ascent of this very fickle line in the early 1970s.

Jermyn Street E5 Lead 1971
First ascent.
Great Arête E5 Solo 1975
First ascent.
Circe E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Hard Cheddar E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Traffic Jam E5 Lead Mar 1979
First ascent.
Menopause E5 Lead | did not finish Nov 1979

Tom stopped climbing after he sustained a tendon injury while attempting to make the first free ascent. He went on to become a caver.

Wee Doris E4 Lead 1967
First ascent.

Some aid.

Oedipus! Ring Your Mother E4 Solo | worked 1968
First ascent.
Our Father E4 Lead | worked Jun 1968
First ascent.

At the time one of the hardest routes in the country. Tom led the line with only 3 pieces of protection, a worrying thought for the modern climbers! [3]

References

[1] http://smhccg.org/rock-climbing/mick-ward/

[2] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[3] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

Bubbles Wall E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.

Tom originally started up an adjacent route but later added the current and more direct start.

Mortlock's Arete E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Cabbage Crack E4 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Jasper E3 Lead | onsight 1975
First ascent.

First free ascent.

Jasper E3 Lead | repeat 1980
First ascent.

First re-ascent after a big flake came off.

Scoop Wall E2 Lead 1967
First ascent.
Knightsbridge E2 Lead
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade