Tom Proctor

Also known as: Clark and The Hydraulic Man

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 1st September 1947
Age: 54 years old
Date of death: 9th September 2001
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Geoff Birtles

An influential climber in the UKs Peak District throughout the 1960s and 70s.

I climbed solo for the first year because I had no one to climb with, I didn't know anybody. I treated it like a job, I'd go out at 8 O’clock in the morning and take my sandwiches, climb to about 12, eat my lunch and then climb to about 4 O'clock and then go home. I did about 4,000 foot of solo in a day and that was every week. 1 went about 38-39 weeks on the trot around Birchens, finding new bits to do and treating it as a bit like a workout. [4]

Tom once climbed "157 routes, mostly hard" [3] in a day on Stanage.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/09/tom_proctor_dies-1249

[2] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

[3] Alan Rouse in Two's a Crowd, Mountain issue 21, page 28

[4] The Power of Climbing (1991), page 35

Contributors
11 contributions since 25th October 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 1st September 1947
Date of death: 9th September 2001
Age: 54 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Geoff Birtles

An influential climber in the UKs Peak District throughout the 1960s and 70s.

I climbed solo for the first year because I had no one to climb with, I didn't know anybody. I treated it like a job, I'd go out at 8 O’clock in the morning and take my sandwiches, climb to about 12, eat my lunch and then climb to about 4 O'clock and then go home. I did about 4,000 foot of solo in a day and that was every week. 1 went about 38-39 weeks on the trot around Birchens, finding new bits to do and treating it as a bit like a workout. [4]

Tom once climbed "157 routes, mostly hard" [3] in a day on Stanage.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/09/tom_proctor_dies-1249

[2] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

[3] Alan Rouse in Two's a Crowd, Mountain issue 21, page 28

[4] The Power of Climbing (1991), page 35

Contributors
11 contributions since 25th October 2021.

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

24 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
A Little Extra 7a+ Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Rubicon 7a Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Tom's Original 7A Boulder | worked 1960s
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Scarab E6 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Green Death E5 Lead | worked 1969
First ascent.

You did GREEN DEATH E5, was that an epic?

That was a turning point. I realised then that I could climb blank rock, because when you get to it, it's not blank. From below you just look up and don't see the holds, but you've got to literally, get a rope, and go down and have a look. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991), David Jones, page 38
Green Death E5 Lead | onsight 1970
First ascent.

Tom nabbed also nabbed the first winter ascent of this very fickle line in the early 1970s.
Jermyn Street E5 Lead 1971
First ascent.
Great Arête E5 Solo 1975
First ascent.
Circe E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Kink E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.

With some aid.
Hard Cheddar E5 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Traffic Jam E5 Lead Mar 1979
First ascent.
Menopause E5 Lead | did not finish Nov 1979

Tom stopped climbing after he sustained a tendon injury while attempting to make the first free ascent. He went on to become a caver.
Wee Doris E4 Lead 1967
First ascent.

Some aid.
Oedipus! Ring Your Mother E4 Solo | worked 1968
First ascent.
Our Father E4 Lead | worked Jun 1968
First ascent.

At the time one of the hardest routes in the country. Tom led the line with only 3 pieces of protection, a worrying thought for the modern climbers! [3]

References

[1] http://smhccg.org/rock-climbing/mick-ward/

[2] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[3] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12
Bubbles Wall E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.

Tom originally started up an adjacent route but later added the current and more direct start.
Mortlock's Arete E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Cabbage Crack E4 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Jasper E3 Lead | onsight 1975
First ascent.

First free ascent.
Jasper E3 Lead | repeat 1980
First ascent.

First re-ascent after a big flake came off.
Great Slab E3 Solo
Scoop Wall E2 Lead 1967
First ascent.
Knightsbridge E2 Lead
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade