Dave MacLeod

Also known as: Dumby Dave

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 17th July 1978
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Social Media

Scottish lone wolf who has performed at a very high level across many disciplines. Dave has established or repeated almost all the hard climbing in Scotland, from 8B+ boulder problems to grade XI winter routes.

https://twitter.com/davemacleod09

Features in Cutting Loose.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 17th July 1978
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Social Media

Scottish lone wolf who has performed at a very high level across many disciplines. Dave has established or repeated almost all the hard climbing in Scotland, from 8B+ boulder problems to grade XI winter routes.

https://twitter.com/davemacleod09

Features in Cutting Loose.


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 22:01 on 18 January 2021
Darwin Dixit (8b+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Zero (8B, FA)
Added at 14:05 on 13 May 2021
Catalan Witness the Fitness (8B+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Deathwatch (E7)
Added at 19:02 on 05 February 2022
Practice of the Wild (8B+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Gut Buster (8B+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Mind Riot (E10, FA)
Added at 07:09 on 22 September 2021
Hurley Burley (8b)
Added at 13:07 on 01 July 2021
One Summer in Paradise (8B)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
From Shallow Water to Riverbed (8B+)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
4th Wave (8B, FA)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
Gimme that Swing (8B, FA)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
If 6 was 9 (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:08 on 24 August 2021
Mnemosyne (E9, FA)
Added at 17:09 on 13 September 2021
The Fugue (E9, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:11 on 21 November 2022
Breathless (E9)
Added at 20:09 on 17 September 2021
Natural Method (8B+, FA)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Natural Method (8B+, FA)
Added at 08:01 on 14 January 2021
Hunger (9a)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
The Walk of Life (E9)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Rhapsody (E11, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Indian Face (E9)
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
Hold Fast, Hold True (E10)
Added at 06:09 on 22 September 2021
Below Zero (8B+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:01 on 31 January 2022
Below Zero (8B+)
Added at 11:02 on 03 February 2022
Hyperborea (E7)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2021
Hyperborea (E7)
Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2021
What we do in the Shadows (E10)
Added at 17:11 on 23 November 2021
Return of the King (E9)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
Pressure (8B, FA)
Added at 08:01 on 14 January 2021
Craig's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 16:06 on 20 June 2022
Mission Impossible (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:09 on 16 September 2022
Mission Impossible (E9)
Added at 16:09 on 21 September 2022
The Golden Road (E9, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:09 on 12 September 2022
Lexicon (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:04 on 01 April 2022
Lexicon (E11)
Added at 17:06 on 14 June 2022
Echo Wall (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:10 on 12 October 2022
Messiah (E7)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:10 on 27 October 2022
Big Chief (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:11 on 16 November 2022
Belly of the Beast (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 23:12 on 03 December 2022
Keen Roof (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 23:12 on 01 December 2022

Ascents

65 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1997 Craig's Wall E7 (Lead) 1st January 1997 (approx)

Dave's first new route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

1998
1999
2000
2001 Impulse E8 (Lead) 1st August 2001 (approx)
Achemine E9 (Lead) 9th October 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

2002 The Fugue E9 (Lead) 16th October 2002

Scotland's second E9.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck8tb95JjWd/

Hold Fast E9 (Lead) 1st December 2002 (approx)
2003
2004
2005 Breathless E9 (Lead) 1st January 2005 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

Perfect Crime 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2005 (approx)
Pressure 8B (Boulder) 1st December 2005 (approx)

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

2006 Sanction 8B (Boulder) 1st February 2006 (approx)
Rhapsody E11 (Lead) 1st April 2006 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Body Blow 8b+ (Lead) 22nd May 2006
Divided Years E9 (Lead) 1st July 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

Body Swerve 8c (Lead) 8th October 2006
2007 If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

The long awaited second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

Blind Vision E9 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

Second ascent.

Impact Day E8 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

Caution E8 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)
Metalcore 8c+ (Lead) 2nd May 2007
Trauma E9 (Lead) 10th June 2007 (approx)

Third ascent.

To Hell and Back E10 (Lead) 24th July 2007
Ring of Steall 8c+ (Lead) 1st August 2007

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html

A Muerte 8c+ (Lead) 29th November 2007 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/11/dave_macleod_-_a_muerte_f9a-41388

2008 Darwin Dixit 8b+ (Solo) 15th March 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY

Echo Wall E10 (approx) (Lead) 1st July 2008 (approx)

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjnyVzUIpsl/

Big Long Now 8B+ (Boulder) 1st August 2008 (approx)
2009 The Walk of Life E9 (Lead) 1st January 2009 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

2010 At Eternity's Gate 8B (Boulder) 1st May 2010 (approx)
Indian Face E9 (Lead) 1st June 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

The Usual Suspects E9 (Lead) 28th August 2010

Dave led the meat of the route with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

Muy Caliente! E9 (Lead) 26th September 2010

Third ascent.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

Die by the Drop E10 (Lead) 12th November 2010 (approx)

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

2011 Seven of Nine 8B+ (Boulder) 1st April 2011 (approx)
Longhope Route Direct E9 (Lead) 21st June 2011

First free ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html

2012 New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 30th April 2012 (approx)
Mystic Stylez 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2012 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

Natural Method 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2012 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

2013 Bellavista E10 (Alternate Leads) 23rd September 2013 (approx)

With Alan Cassidy, Dave took the crux pitch.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

2014
2015 4th Wave 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2015 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/149216716

One Summer in Paradise 8B (Boulder) 1st November 2015 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

https://vimeo.com/145013170

2016 Gimme that Swing 8B (Boulder) 24th March 2016

https://vimeo.com/160221796

Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

Return of the King E9 (Lead) 28th June 2016 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/173051918

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

2017 Lithium 8B+ (Boulder) 1st March 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

2018 Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 1st March 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

2019 Hunger 9a (Lead) 1st January 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz73lqhL8Ro

The Golden Road E9 (Lead) 1st June 2019 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiZtXRODxCT/

Mind Riot E10 (Lead) 1st October 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

2020 Nosferatu E8 (Lead) 1st January 2020 (approx)

Second ascent.

2021 Zero 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

Mnemosyne E9 (Lead) 12th September 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

What we do in the Shadows E10 (Lead) 5th October 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

Hyperborea E7 (Lead) 12th November 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

2022 Messiah E7 (Lead) 1st January 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd5ICoWjxWP/

Below Zero 8B+ (Boulder) 30th January 2022 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

Lexicon E11 (Lead) 27th March 2022

Third ascent.

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

Mission Impossible E9 (Lead) 15th September 2022

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CikzhSnDiaV/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAh40hzqSAc

Big Chief 8B (Boulder) 6th November 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkozHa9DBuH/

Keen Roof 8B (Boulder) 1st December 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClpEl_NDjrV/

Belly of the Beast 8B (Boulder) 3rd December 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CluPC8-DEwC/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hunger 9a (Lead) 1st January 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz73lqhL8Ro

Metalcore 8c+ (Lead) 2nd May 2007
Ring of Steall 8c+ (Lead) 1st August 2007

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html

A Muerte 8c+ (Lead) 29th November 2007 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/11/dave_macleod_-_a_muerte_f9a-41388

Body Swerve 8c (Lead) 8th October 2006
Body Blow 8b+ (Lead) 22nd May 2006
Darwin Dixit 8b+ (Solo) 15th March 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY

Hurley Burley 8b (Solo)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GOW2iwgPdI

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Big Long Now 8B+ (Boulder) 1st August 2008 (approx)
Seven of Nine 8B+ (Boulder) 1st April 2011 (approx)
Natural Method 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2012 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

Lithium 8B+ (Boulder) 1st March 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 30th April 2012 (approx)
Mystic Stylez 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2012 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder) 1st May 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 1st March 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

Below Zero 8B+ (Boulder) 30th January 2022 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

From Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+ (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/163236472

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ (Boulder)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7cSJ0g3kNo

Perfect Crime 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2005 (approx)
Pressure 8B (Boulder) 1st December 2005 (approx)

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

Sanction 8B (Boulder) 1st February 2006 (approx)
At Eternity's Gate 8B (Boulder) 1st May 2010 (approx)
4th Wave 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2015 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/149216716

Gimme that Swing 8B (Boulder) 24th March 2016

https://vimeo.com/160221796

Zero 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

One Summer in Paradise 8B (Boulder) 1st November 2015 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

https://vimeo.com/145013170

Big Chief 8B (Boulder) 6th November 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkozHa9DBuH/

Keen Roof 8B (Boulder) 1st December 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClpEl_NDjrV/

Belly of the Beast 8B (Boulder) 3rd December 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CluPC8-DEwC/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Rhapsody E11 (Lead) 1st April 2006 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Lexicon E11 (Lead) 27th March 2022

Third ascent.

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

To Hell and Back E10 (Lead) 24th July 2007
Echo Wall E10 (approx) (Lead) 1st July 2008 (approx)

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjnyVzUIpsl/

Die by the Drop E10 (Lead) 12th November 2010 (approx)

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

Mind Riot E10 (Lead) 1st October 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

Bellavista E10 (Alternate Leads) 23rd September 2013 (approx)

With Alan Cassidy, Dave took the crux pitch.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

What we do in the Shadows E10 (Lead) 5th October 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

Hold Fast, Hold True E10 (Lead Did not finish)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bElfeCKrRvY

Achemine E9 (Lead) 9th October 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

The Fugue E9 (Lead) 16th October 2002

Scotland's second E9.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck8tb95JjWd/

Hold Fast E9 (Lead) 1st December 2002 (approx)
The Usual Suspects E9 (Lead) 28th August 2010

Dave led the meat of the route with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

Longhope Route Direct E9 (Lead) 21st June 2011

First free ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html

The Golden Road E9 (Lead) 1st June 2019 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiZtXRODxCT/

Mnemosyne E9 (Lead) 12th September 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

Breathless E9 (Lead) 1st January 2005 (approx) E9

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

Divided Years E9 (Lead) 1st July 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

Blind Vision E9 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

Second ascent.

If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

The long awaited second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

Trauma E9 (Lead) 10th June 2007 (approx)

Third ascent.

The Walk of Life E9 (Lead) 1st January 2009 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

Indian Face E9 (Lead) 1st June 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

Muy Caliente! E9 (Lead) 26th September 2010

Third ascent.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

Return of the King E9 (Lead) 28th June 2016 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/173051918

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

Mission Impossible E9 (Lead) 15th September 2022

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CikzhSnDiaV/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAh40hzqSAc

Impulse E8 (Lead) 1st August 2001 (approx)
Caution E8 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)
Impact Day E8 (Lead) 1st January 2007 (approx)

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

Nosferatu E8 (Lead) 1st January 2020 (approx)

Second ascent.

Doug E8 (Solo Did not finish)

Dave snapped a pebble and broke his ankle while going for a headpoint ascent.

Craig's Wall E7 (Lead) 1st January 1997 (approx)

Dave's first new route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

Hyperborea E7 (Lead) 12th November 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

Messiah E7 (Lead) 1st January 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd5ICoWjxWP/

Deathwatch E7 (Lead Onsight)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade