Dave MacLeod


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 17 July 1978
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Social Media

Scottish lone wolf who has performed at a very high level across many disciplines. Dave has established or repeated almost all the hard climbing in Scotland, from 8B+ boulder problems to grade XI winter routes.

https://twitter.com/davemacleod09

Features in Cutting Loose.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 17 July 1978
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Social Media

Scottish lone wolf who has performed at a very high level across many disciplines. Dave has established or repeated almost all the hard climbing in Scotland, from 8B+ boulder problems to grade XI winter routes.

https://twitter.com/davemacleod09

Features in Cutting Loose.


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 22:01 on 18 January 2021
Hunger (9a)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Practice of the Wild (8C)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Darwin Dixit (8b+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Catalan Witness the Fitness (8B+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Natural Method (8B+, FA)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
Gut Buster (8B+)
Added at 09:12 on 19 December 2020
The Walk of Life (E9)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Rhapsody (E11, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Return of the King (E9)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
From Shallow Water to Riverbed (8B+)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
4th Wave (8B, FA)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
Gimme that Swing (8B, FA)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
One Summer in Paradise (8B)
Added at 15:01 on 06 January 2021
Natural Method (8B+, FA)
Added at 08:01 on 14 January 2021
Pressure (8B, FA)
Added at 08:01 on 14 January 2021
Indian Face (E9)
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
Zero (8B, FA)
Added at 14:05 on 13 May 2021
If 6 was 9 (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:08 on 24 August 2021
Hyperborea (E7)
Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2021
Hyperborea (E7)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2021
Breathless (E9)
Added at 20:09 on 17 September 2021
Hold Fast, Hold True (E10)
Added at 06:09 on 22 September 2021
Mind Riot (E10, FA)
Added at 07:09 on 22 September 2021
What we do in the Shadows (E10)
Added at 17:11 on 23 November 2021
Hurley Burley (8b)
Added at 13:07 on 01 July 2021
Mnemosyne (E9, FA)
Added at 17:09 on 13 September 2021
Below Zero (8B+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:01 on 31 January 2022
Below Zero (8B+)
Added at 11:02 on 03 February 2022
Deathwatch (E7)
Added at 19:02 on 05 February 2022
Lexicon (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:04 on 01 April 2022

Ascents

55 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1997 Craig's Wall E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

Dave's first new route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

1998
1999
2000
2001 Achemine E9 (Lead) 09 Oct 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

2002 The Fugue E9 (Lead) 16 Oct 2002

Scotland's second E9.

Hold Fast E9 (Lead) 01 Dec 2002 (approx)
2003
2004
2005 Breathless E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

Perfect Crime 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2005 (approx)
Pressure 8B (Boulder) 01 Dec 2005 (approx)

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

2006 Sanction 8B (Boulder) 01 Feb 2006 (approx)
Rhapsody E11 (Lead) 01 Apr 2006 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Divided Years E9 (Lead) 01 Jul 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

2007 Impact Day E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

Caution E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)
If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

The long awaited second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

Metalcore 8c+ (Lead) 02 May 2007
Trauma E9 (Lead) 10 Jun 2007 (approx)

Third ascent.

To Hell and Back E10 (Lead) 24 Jul 2007
Ring of Steall 8c+ (Lead) 01 Aug 2007

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html

A Muerte 8c+ (Lead) 29 Nov 2007 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/11/dave_macleod_-_a_muerte_f9a-41388

2008 Darwin Dixit 8b+ (Solo) 15 Mar 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY

Echo Wall E10 (approx) (Lead) 01 Jul 2008 (approx)

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

Big Long Now 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Aug 2008 (approx)
2009 The Walk of Life E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

2010 At Eternity's Gate 8B (Boulder) 01 May 2010 (approx)
Indian Face E9 (Lead) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

The Usual Suspects E9 (Lead) 28 Aug 2010

Dave led the meat of the route with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

Muy Caliente! E9 (Lead) 26 Sep 2010

Third ascent.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

Die by the Drop E10 (Lead) 12 Nov 2010 (approx)

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

2011 Seven of Nine 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Apr 2011 (approx)
Longhope Route Direct E9 (Lead) 21 Jun 2011
2012 New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 30 Apr 2012 (approx)
Mystic Stylez 8B+ (Boulder) 01 May 2012 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

Natural Method 8B+ (Boulder) 01 May 2012 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

2013 Bellavista E10 (Alternate Leads) 23 Sep 2013 (approx)

With Alan Cassidy, Dave took the crux pitch.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

2014
2015 4th Wave 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2015 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/149216716

One Summer in Paradise 8B (Boulder) 01 Nov 2015 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

https://vimeo.com/145013170

2016 Gimme that Swing 8B (Boulder) 24 Mar 2016

https://vimeo.com/160221796

Practice of the Wild 8C (Boulder) 01 May 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

Return of the King E9 (Lead) 28 Jun 2016 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/173051918

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

2017 Lithium 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

2018 Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

2019 Hunger 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz73lqhL8Ro

Mind Riot E10 (Lead) 01 Oct 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

2020 Nosferatu E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2020 (approx)

Second ascent.

2021 Zero 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

Mnemosyne E9 (Lead) 12 Sep 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

What we do in the Shadows E10 (Lead) 05 Oct 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

Hyperborea E7 (Lead) 12 Nov 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

2022 Below Zero 8B+ (Boulder) 30 Jan 2022 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

Lexicon E11 (Lead) 01 Mar 2022 (approx)

Third ascent.

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Practice of the Wild 8C (Boulder) 01 May 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

Big Long Now 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Aug 2008 (approx)
Seven of Nine 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Apr 2011 (approx)
Natural Method 8B+ (Boulder) 01 May 2012 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

Lithium 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 30 Apr 2012 (approx)
Mystic Stylez 8B+ (Boulder) 01 May 2012 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

Gut Buster 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

Below Zero 8B+ (Boulder) 30 Jan 2022 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ (Boulder)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7cSJ0g3kNo

From Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+ (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/163236472

Perfect Crime 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2005 (approx)
Pressure 8B (Boulder) 01 Dec 2005 (approx)

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

Sanction 8B (Boulder) 01 Feb 2006 (approx)
At Eternity's Gate 8B (Boulder) 01 May 2010 (approx)
4th Wave 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2015 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/149216716

Gimme that Swing 8B (Boulder) 24 Mar 2016

https://vimeo.com/160221796

Zero 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

One Summer in Paradise 8B (Boulder) 01 Nov 2015 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

https://vimeo.com/145013170

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Rhapsody E11 (Lead) 01 Apr 2006 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Lexicon E11 (Lead) 01 Mar 2022 (approx)

Third ascent.

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

To Hell and Back E10 (Lead) 24 Jul 2007
Echo Wall E10 (approx) (Lead) 01 Jul 2008 (approx)

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

Die by the Drop E10 (Lead) 12 Nov 2010 (approx)

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

Mind Riot E10 (Lead) 01 Oct 2019 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

Bellavista E10 (Alternate Leads) 23 Sep 2013 (approx)

With Alan Cassidy, Dave took the crux pitch.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

What we do in the Shadows E10 (Lead) 05 Oct 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

Hold Fast, Hold True E10 (Lead Did not finish)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bElfeCKrRvY

Achemine E9 (Lead) 09 Oct 2001

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

The Fugue E9 (Lead) 16 Oct 2002

Scotland's second E9.

Hold Fast E9 (Lead) 01 Dec 2002 (approx)
The Usual Suspects E9 (Lead) 28 Aug 2010

Dave led the meat of the route with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

Longhope Route Direct E9 (Lead) 21 Jun 2011
Mnemosyne E9 (Lead) 12 Sep 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

Breathless E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2005 (approx) E9

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

Divided Years E9 (Lead) 01 Jul 2006 (approx)

Third ascent.

If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

The long awaited second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

Trauma E9 (Lead) 10 Jun 2007 (approx)

Third ascent.

The Walk of Life E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

Indian Face E9 (Lead) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

Muy Caliente! E9 (Lead) 26 Sep 2010

Third ascent.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

Return of the King E9 (Lead) 28 Jun 2016 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/173051918

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

Caution E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)
Impact Day E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2007 (approx)

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

Nosferatu E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 2020 (approx)

Second ascent.

Doug E8 (Solo Did not finish)

Dave snapped a pebble and broke his ankle while going for a headpoint ascent.

Craig's Wall E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

Dave's first new route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

Hyperborea E7 (Lead) 12 Nov 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

Deathwatch E7 (Lead Onsight)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade