Marc Le Menestrel

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References

[1] The 8th Grade - Ten Years of Free Climbing in France

References

[1] The 8th Grade - Ten Years of Free Climbing in France

8A+. First ascent after hold breakage. Marc repeated the problem for The Real Thing (@43:00), released in 1996.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/brbxoKEgsw0?t=2582

References

[1] News report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

[2] Pic by Steve Lewis who met him out there and witnessed the ascent. There may be further pics in an issue On The Edge from 1994 or 1995?

Graded 14b initially which would have made it the third of the grade in America at the time.

http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

One day I was trying with Sébastien Frigault. He makes a good try, where he nearly reaches the right hand hold at the top. It had taken me 3 years to get to that point and for him a few sessions sufficed. I told him I was impressed and he answered "It is normal the old generation must leave place for the new." [Laughing] I got annoyed and did it next try. [1]

Facebook comment from Marc on Nalle's repeat:

Hello Nalle! It is cool to see your pic and drive for a new way to do the Alchemist. I remember this boulder as one of the greatest climb I ever did. The pinch was so wonderful to hold, as must be the slope you photographed. Of course, I resented very much the breaking of the holds, without having ever figured out what happened. With much encouragements!

Marc

PS. I did the first ascent in 1996 and repeated it the year after, in 1997, before the camera of the video Bleau. These are the only two ascents to date. [2]

Repeated in 1997 for the video.

References

[1] OTE

[2] https://www.facebook.com/hukkataival/photos/this-hold-makes-it-possible!/814307881916101/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIreNKro7QU?t=2565

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CN1hLG4A_4x/

The first ascent using a foot on the rail. Marc tried the jump method once, realised it wasn’t the way for him, so put his toe on the rail and did the problem first try. [3]

Stu Littlefair:

I was there to see Marc do Brad Pit. It was pretty incredible. These days a high foot seems obvious but it was so visionary then, and he knew he was going to do it that way from the photos of Jason [Myers] on it. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31061.msg626382.html#msg626382

[2] Date is approx https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33546.msg677007.html#msg677007

[3] Interview in ‘Peak Rock’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

Previously Deliverance had been a problem for basketball slam-dunkers; Marc was likely the first to spot the high foot method now used more commonly. This was the same day as working out the high-foot beta on Brad Pit. Date is approx [1].

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33546.msg677007.html#msg677007

References

[1] 7+8 guide, 2016

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 20

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C09aKQQtBaT/