Jacopo Larcher

Second free ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/12/jacopo_larcher_and_barbara_zangerl_repeat_magic_mushroom_8b+_multi_pitch_on_el_capitan-71414

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7fYUiXkHys

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIQHjHBA_Us/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPldNqUgs3r/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYI8UswMtf1/

https://fanatic-climbing.com/triple-repetition-du-voyage-a-annot-triple-send-of-le-voyage-in-annot/

The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

The moves are simply amazing! Poor footholds, big lock offs and compression climbing towards the end… a real gem! Personally I think this is the hardest climb I’ve done in Orco so far. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW32UHvs0s7/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcoFX16MRn1/