Jacopo Larcher


Quick Info

From: Italy 🇮🇹
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8

Contributors
32 contributions since 6th January 2021.
1 contribution since 7th December 2023.
1 contribution since 16th December 2024.

Quick Info

From: Italy 🇮🇹
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5SisJOwqwhllLtqX0yZXrb?

Contributors
32 contributions since 6th January 2021.
1 contribution since 7th December 2023.
1 contribution since 16th December 2024.

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

24 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Sprengstoff 9a Lead | worked 1st Dec 2020
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CIQHjHBA_Us/

Instructor 8c+ Lead | worked 2019
First ascent.
Lapoterapia 8c Lead | worked Dec 2015

First climbed on the bolts, then 4 days later Jacopo repeated it on trad gear only.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-climbs-lapoterapia-trad-at-osso-in-italy.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uahuFVGmtlQ

The Gift 8c Lead | worked 12th Aug 2024
Seventh Direction 8c Lead | worked 3rd Sep 2024
Third ascent. Belayed by Barbara Zangerl.

With no falls.

The Nose 8b+ Lead | worked 2019
Freerider 7c+ Alternate Leads | ground up Nov 2024
With Barbara Zangerl.

Jacopo was tantalisingly close to the flash taking just one fall on the boulder problem pitch before redpointing the pitch successfully on his second attempt. [1]

Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Jacopo and partner Barbara Zangerl swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/it-goes-again-boys-barbara-zangerl-interview-after-freerider-flash-el-cap.html

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Tribe E11 Lead | worked Mar 2019
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7fYUiXkHys

Rhapsody E11 Lead | worked May 2016
Meltdown E11 Lead | worked Nov 2022
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btdQE4fee44

Jeune et Con E10 Lead | worked Apr 2022
Magic Mushroom E10 Lead | worked Dec 2017
Le Voyage E10 Lead | worked May 2021
Into the Sun E10 Lead | worked Nov 2021
Parthian Shot E10 Lead | worked 7th Jul 2023
Magic Line E10 Lead | worked 6th Nov 2024
Shikantaza E9 Lead | worked Oct 2021
First ascent.

The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

Blood Diamond E9 (approx) Lead | worked 24th Oct 2021
First ascent.

The moves are simply amazing! Poor footholds, big lock offs and compression climbing towards the end… a real gem! Personally I think this is the hardest climb I’ve done in Orco so far. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

Couilles de Mammouth E9 (approx) Lead | worked Dec 2023
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0cFAfdNY8H/

Prinzip Hoffnung E9 Lead | worked 12th Feb 2014
Psychogramm E9 Lead | worked Dec 2015
The Path E9 Lead | worked
Eternal Flame E8 Lead | flash Between 18th Jul 2022 and 23rd Jul 2022
Eye of the Tiger E7 Lead | onsight 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade