Toru Nakajima

Instagram.com

Quick Info

Nationality: JP
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Contributors: remus
Added on 22nd February 2021. Last updated on 15th July 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: JP
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Contributors: remus
Added on 22nd February 2021. Last updated on 15th July 2024.

Lists


Pics + Vids

Flux (8C, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:12 on 01 December 2023
Regret (8C+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 03 March 2024
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2021
Tomorrow Land (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:02 on 06 February 2023
Epitaph (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:04 on 02 April 2022
Epitaph (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:04 on 02 April 2022
Elm Street (7C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:01 on 18 January 2023
Epitaph (8C+)
Added at 11:10 on 20 October 2022
Stand-Alone (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:10 on 31 October 2022
Vanitas (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:10 on 31 October 2022

Ascents

19 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
2003 Flat Mountain 9a Lead | worked Between 1st Jan 2003 and 1st Jan 2016
Second ascent.
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009 Black Out E9 Lead | worked 19th Aug 2009
Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
Meshuga E9 Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
Child's Play E7 Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
2010
2011
2012 Tokoyo 8C Boulder | worked Dec 2012
2013 The Big Island 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2013
2014 The Story of Two Worlds 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2014
Asagimadara 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2014
Second ascent.

Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me. After the crux, the next eight moves to a small ledge are easier, but since I tried it ground up, I couldn't predict holds and movement I should do. Actually, holds were dirty and I fell from this section two times. The top out is very easy, but it was also dirty and I felt nervous.

I took five days to climb this problem. Tokio Muroi made the first ascent of this amazing problem without boulderingpads.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/03/updatedtoru_nakajima_repeats_asagimadara_f8c+-67932

2015
2016
2017 Lucid Dreaming 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2017
Fourth ascent. 16 sessions.

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

2018
2019
2020
2021 Vanitas 8C Boulder | worked 2021
Stand-Alone 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2021
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYBzQrCF3NR/

2022 Epitaph 8C+ Boulder | worked 1st Apr 2022
Third ascent.

The first re-ascent since one of the crucial crux holds broke.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb05hVJvDgh/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb06l7_P08o/

[3] https://vimeo.com/760144758

2023 Tomorrow Land 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2023
Flux 8C Boulder | worked Nov 2023
2024 Regret 8C+ Boulder | worked Between 1st Jan 2024 and 1st Mar 2024
First ascent. 20 sessions.

It feels harder than Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop, US, , which is kinda similar, but then again, who's to say if a 3-move V16 is a thing? While trying this challenge, I often thought back to my 20 days on Emotion 10 years ago. Just like anything else, looking back helps you get the full picture. Hopely someday I will know about this problem. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4CKIiOyueH/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Flat Mountain 9a Lead | worked Between 1st Jan 2003 and 1st Jan 2016
Second ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Regret 8C+ Boulder | worked Between 1st Jan 2024 and 1st Mar 2024
First ascent. 20 sessions.

It feels harder than Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop, US, , which is kinda similar, but then again, who's to say if a 3-move V16 is a thing? While trying this challenge, I often thought back to my 20 days on Emotion 10 years ago. Just like anything else, looking back helps you get the full picture. Hopely someday I will know about this problem. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4CKIiOyueH/

Epitaph 8C+ Boulder | worked 1st Apr 2022 8C+
Third ascent.

The first re-ascent since one of the crucial crux holds broke.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb05hVJvDgh/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb06l7_P08o/

[3] https://vimeo.com/760144758

Flux 8C Boulder | worked Nov 2023
Tokoyo 8C Boulder | worked Dec 2012
The Big Island 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2013
The Story of Two Worlds 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2014
Asagimadara 8C Boulder | worked Mar 2014
Second ascent.

Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me. After the crux, the next eight moves to a small ledge are easier, but since I tried it ground up, I couldn't predict holds and movement I should do. Actually, holds were dirty and I fell from this section two times. The top out is very easy, but it was also dirty and I felt nervous.

I took five days to climb this problem. Tokio Muroi made the first ascent of this amazing problem without boulderingpads.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/03/updatedtoru_nakajima_repeats_asagimadara_f8c+-67932

Lucid Dreaming 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2017
Fourth ascent. 16 sessions.

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

Vanitas 8C Boulder | worked 2021
Tomorrow Land 8C Boulder | worked Feb 2023
Decided 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Stand-Alone 8B Boulder | worked Dec 2021
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYBzQrCF3NR/

Elm Street 7C+ Solo
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade