Toru Nakajima


Quick Info

Nationality: JP
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

Quick Info

Nationality: JP
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

Lists


Pics + Vids

Elm Street (7C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:01 on 18 January 2023
Epitaph (8C+)
Added at 11:10 on 20 October 2022
Epitaph (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:04 on 02 April 2022
Epitaph (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:04 on 02 April 2022
Tomorrow Land (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:02 on 06 February 2023
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2021
Stand-Alone (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:10 on 31 October 2022
Vanitas (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:10 on 31 October 2022

Ascents

14 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2009 Black Out E9 (Lead) 19th August 2009

Aged 15, first trip on the grit!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/japanese_junior_-_new_burbage_e9-48913

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840797072806

Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 (Lead) 25th August 2009

The same day as leading Meshuga!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545

Meshuga E9 (Lead) 25th August 2009

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545

Child's Play E7 (Lead) 25th August 2009
2010
2011
2012 Tokoyo 8C (Boulder) December 2012

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/12/tokoyo_8c_by_toru_nakajima-67698

2013 The Big Island 8C (Boulder) February 2013

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/the_big_island_8c_for_toru_nakajima-67863

2014 Asagimadara 8C (Boulder) March 2014

Second ascent.

Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me. After the crux, the next eight moves to a small ledge are easier, but since I tried it ground up, I couldn't predict holds and movement I should do. Actually, holds were dirty and I fell from this section two times. The top out is very easy, but it was also dirty and I felt nervous.

I took five days to climb this problem. Tokio Muroi made the first ascent of this amazing problem without boulderingpads.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/03/updatedtoru_nakajima_repeats_asagimadara_f8c+-67932

The Story of Two Worlds 8C (Boulder) March 2014

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/the_story_of_2_worlds_8c_by_toru_nakajima-68776

2015
2016
2017 Lucid Dreaming 8C (Boulder) February 2017

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

2018
2019
2020
2021 Vanitas 8C (Boulder) 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM3pLk0jQuI/

Stand-Alone 8B (Boulder) December 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYBzQrCF3NR/

2022 Epitaph 8C+ (Boulder) 1st April 2022

Third ascent and the first ascent since one of the crucial crux holds broke.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb05hVJvDgh/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb06l7_P08o/

[3] https://vimeo.com/760144758

2023 Tomorrow Land 8C (Boulder) February 2023

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoUQ3LKyfjZ/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Epitaph 8C+ (Boulder) 1st April 2022 8C+

Third ascent and the first ascent since one of the crucial crux holds broke.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb05hVJvDgh/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb06l7_P08o/

[3] https://vimeo.com/760144758

Tokoyo 8C (Boulder) December 2012

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/12/tokoyo_8c_by_toru_nakajima-67698

The Big Island 8C (Boulder) February 2013

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/the_big_island_8c_for_toru_nakajima-67863

Asagimadara 8C (Boulder) March 2014

Second ascent.

Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me. After the crux, the next eight moves to a small ledge are easier, but since I tried it ground up, I couldn't predict holds and movement I should do. Actually, holds were dirty and I fell from this section two times. The top out is very easy, but it was also dirty and I felt nervous.

I took five days to climb this problem. Tokio Muroi made the first ascent of this amazing problem without boulderingpads.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/03/updatedtoru_nakajima_repeats_asagimadara_f8c+-67932

The Story of Two Worlds 8C (Boulder) March 2014

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/the_story_of_2_worlds_8c_by_toru_nakajima-68776

Lucid Dreaming 8C (Boulder) February 2017

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

Vanitas 8C (Boulder) 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM3pLk0jQuI/

Tomorrow Land 8C (Boulder) February 2023

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoUQ3LKyfjZ/

Stand-Alone 8B (Boulder) December 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYBzQrCF3NR/

Elm Street 7C+ (Solo Unknown)

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnh8Hm3DNc6/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade