Pete Oxley


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Resident: Australia 🇦🇺
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

Pete Oxley was a prolific first ascentionist in the dorset area and was one of the driving forces behind the growth of sport climbing on the south coast of England before he moved away from the area in 2005. He's put up over 800 new routes in areas such as Portland, Lulworth and Swanage as well as (slightly) further afield in Avon, Cheddar and The Peak District.

References

[1] Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast.

Contributors
161 contributions since 20th February 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Resident: Australia 🇦🇺
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

Pete Oxley was a prolific first ascentionist in the dorset area and was one of the driving forces behind the growth of sport climbing on the south coast of England before he moved away from the area in 2005. He's put up over 800 new routes in areas such as Portland, Lulworth and Swanage as well as (slightly) further afield in Avon, Cheddar and The Peak District.

References

[1] Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast.

Contributors
161 contributions since 20th February 2021.

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Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

It's one of the most inspiring hard sport climbs in the South, on superb rock, and probably the widest sport overhang ever climbed in the UK? I first bolted it 14 years ago [1991] and then abandoned it after failure. Recently I rebolted it and success was achieved after six half days, with cool conditions the key to success. During the ascent I had a very emotional and overwhelming sense of the presence of my great friend the late Brian Tilley. He filled my mind all the way up as we had done great things in this cave many years ago. When I got home Jan said the phone had rung about 2.00 in the afternoon about the time I was on the route, the caller asked 'Is Brian there...'. I dedicate the route to his memory. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/10/pete_oxley_says_goodbye_to_dorset-20525

References

[1] Mountain 144 (1992), page 13 /library/11322/mountain-144

Vespasian First ascent. 8b Lead | worked 1st Oct 1994 8a+
Infinite Gravity First ascent. 8a+ Lead | worked Apr 1992
Freaky Ralph First ascent. 8a+ Lead | worked 3rd Oct 1992
Haka Pereperu First ascent. 8a+ Lead | worked 12th Jun 2005
Monoculture First ascent. 1 point of aid. 8a Lead | worked Dec 1988
Hell's Darker Chambers First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 3rd May 1992

References

[1] Mountain 144 (1992), page 12 /library/11322/mountain-144

Monoculture First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 17th Apr 1993
Magnetic Pull First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 15th Sep 1996
Balance of Power First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 21st Nov 1999
Bullet the Blue Sky First ascent. 7b+ Lead | worked 13th Sep 1987
Cocteau Phenomena First ascent. 7b+ Lead | worked 11th May 1989
Zinc Oxide Mountain First ascent. 7b+ Lead | worked 25th Jul 1990
Bream in Black First ascent. 7a+ Lead 1987
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Laughing Arthur First ascent. E8 Lead | worked 3rd Dec 1988

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

The Roaring Boys First ascent. E6 Lead | yo-yo 1st Aug 1987

References

[1] Mountain 144 (1992), page 14 /library/11322/mountain-144

Rocket USA First ascent. E6 Lead | worked 31st Jul 1991

References

[1] Climber August 1999, page 20

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Adrenochrome First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 20th May 1992
Mark of the Beast First ascent. 7c Lead | worked 23rd Oct 1987

Originally climbed as a sport line.

The first DWS ascent. Pete went back to remove the bolts.

References

[1] Climber August 1997, page 52

Privateer First ascent. 7b+ Deep Water Solo 23rd May 1998

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 70

Riding to Babylon First ascent. 7a+ Lead 22nd Dec 1992
Horny Lil' Devil First ascent. 7a Deep Water Solo | onsight 19th May 1992