Pete Oxley

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

Pete Oxley was a prolific first ascentionist in the dorset area and was one of the driving forces behind the growth of sport climbing on the south coast of England before he moved away from the area in 2005. He's put up over 800 new routes in areas such as Portland, Lulworth and Swanage as well as (slightly) further afield in Avon, Cheddar and The Peak District.

Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

Pete Oxley was a prolific first ascentionist in the dorset area and was one of the driving forces behind the growth of sport climbing on the south coast of England before he moved away from the area in 2005. He's put up over 800 new routes in areas such as Portland, Lulworth and Swanage as well as (slightly) further afield in Avon, Cheddar and The Peak District.

Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast.

Podcasts

Ascents

10 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1987 Bullet the Blue Sky 7b+ (Lead) ✓ 13th September 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115413186582234
Mark of the Beast 7c (Lead) ✓ 23rd October 1987
1988 Laughing Arthur E8 (Lead) ✓ 3rd December 1988
1989
1990
1991 Palace of the Brine 8b (Lead) ✓ 21st September 1991
1992 Infinite Gravity 8a+ (Lead) ✓ April 1992
Adrenochrome 8a (Lead) ✓ 20th May 1992
1993
1994 Vespasian 8b (Lead) ✓ 1st October 1994
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999 Balance of Power 8a (Lead) ✓ 21st November 1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005 Haka Pereperu 8a+ (Lead) ✓ 12th June 2005
Lifeforce 8b+ (Lead) ✓ 2nd October 2005

It's one of the most inspiring hard sport climbs in the South, on superb rock, and probably the widest sport overhang ever climbed in the UK? I first bolted it 14 years ago [1991] and then abandoned it after failure. Recently I rebolted it and success was achieved after six half days, with cool conditions the key to success. During the ascent I had a very emotional and overwhelming sense of the presence of my great friend the late Brian Tilley. He filled my mind all the way up as we had done great things in this cave many years ago. When I got home Jan said the phone had rung about 2.00 in the afternoon about the time I was on the route, the caller asked 'Is Brian there...'. I dedicate the route to his memory. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/10/pete_oxley_says_goodbye_to_dorset-20525
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Lifeforce 8b+ (Lead) ✓ 2nd October 2005

It's one of the most inspiring hard sport climbs in the South, on superb rock, and probably the widest sport overhang ever climbed in the UK? I first bolted it 14 years ago [1991] and then abandoned it after failure. Recently I rebolted it and success was achieved after six half days, with cool conditions the key to success. During the ascent I had a very emotional and overwhelming sense of the presence of my great friend the late Brian Tilley. He filled my mind all the way up as we had done great things in this cave many years ago. When I got home Jan said the phone had rung about 2.00 in the afternoon about the time I was on the route, the caller asked 'Is Brian there...'. I dedicate the route to his memory. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/10/pete_oxley_says_goodbye_to_dorset-20525
Palace of the Brine 8b (Lead) ✓ 21st September 1991
Vespasian 8b (Lead) ✓ 1st October 1994 8a+
Infinite Gravity 8a+ (Lead) ✓ April 1992
Haka Pereperu 8a+ (Lead) ✓ 12th June 2005
Adrenochrome 8a (Lead) ✓ 20th May 1992
Balance of Power 8a (Lead) ✓ 21st November 1999
Bullet the Blue Sky 7b+ (Lead) ✓ 13th September 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115413186582234
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Laughing Arthur E8 (Lead) ✓ 3rd December 1988
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Mark of the Beast 7c (Lead) ✓ 23rd October 1987