Arnis Strapcans

More

• Change Log
• Pics and vids by Arnis Strapcans
• Library
• Threads

Graded HVS at the time!

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Free climbed the old Bastion Wall. A really first-class route, even if I say so myself! So it's the least I could do to name it after poor Rob.

...

I flung myself at the slimy, grass-filled crack, not daring to stop, for fear of falling off. Then after a very committing move over a bulge I was confronted by a steep fragile wall with uselessly fragile, shallow, greay finger pockets. It was getting dark fast and my fingers squirmed about in the grease, no light left except for three blood red tongues of sky tearing the jet black clouds on the horizon, absolutely no time left for emssing about, I frantically got a peg out to put in for pro. Unfortunately, as I whipped out my hammer I smashed myself in the mouth with it, bursting my lip and breaking off a corner and a flake of my front tooth.

Now I was really freaked out, the sun had long since gone below the ridge. I sped up the crisp wall like there was no tomorrow and gained the break below the enormous summit bulge. I reached up over this, and to my surprise my hand came onto a line of fine holds leading away to the left. I boated across in exuberance and exploded up to the summit tree, to the sound of loose rock crashing down the cliff from the east last ten feet. Poor old Jerry [Frost] prussicked up in the dark. Mission accomplished. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

A peg was used to clean the last few feet. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Over a couple of January weekends in 1976. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

With a rest on a peg on the first pitch.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

[2] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club

With a point of aid. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

[2] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club p365

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Strapcans and Monks used one point of aid: a hanging belay mid-pitch.

The finest and most demanding undertaking in Cheddar. Sustained technical difficulty in an unparalleled position. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

One point of aid.

A real man-eater. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Monstrously brilliant! A new breed in space walking. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Brilliant! A modern debauchery connecting a subtle line of ramps from the base of The Pillar to the stance on Original Route. Whilst no single move compares with Bastille's crux, the climbing is bold and sustained without the comfort of pegs or bolts to go for. Cool nerve and careful wire arrangement important. the crux pitch was led on three 9mm ropes to avoid dislodging important runners. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Arnis' 136th new route, and the last he recorded in his new routes book before he sadly died while soloing in the Alps. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.