Arnis Strapcans


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Chris King
Ken Wilson
Richard Harrison

Arnis Strapcans was a British climber who was active in the 1970s. He was killed in a suspected fall from the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc in 1980.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/the_late_arnie_strapcans-423688

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/arnie_strapcans-390263?v=1#x5631533

Contributors
66 contributions since 22nd November 2023.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Chris King
Ken Wilson
Richard Harrison

Arnis Strapcans was a British climber who was active in the 1970s. He was killed in a suspected fall from the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc in 1980.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/the_late_arnie_strapcans-423688

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/arnie_strapcans-390263?v=1#x5631533

Contributors
66 contributions since 22nd November 2023.

Pics + Vids

No media.


Ascents

26 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Atmosfears E5 Lead | onsight 11th Aug 1978
First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin.

With 2 points of aid.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Polaris E5 Alternate Leads 13th Aug 1978
First ascent. With Frank Farrell and Gordon Jenkin.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

West Route E5 Alternate Leads | worked Between 1st Oct 1978 and 1st Dec 1978
First ascent. With Steve Monks.

The finest and most demanding undertaking in Cheddar. Sustained technical difficulty in an unparalleled position. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

The Wall of Prey E5 Lead Aug 1979
First ascent.

A real man-eater. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Depth Charge E5 Alternate Leads 6th Oct 1979
First ascent. With Mick Fowler.

Monstrously brilliant! A new breed in space walking. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 Lead | did not finish 1970s
G.T. Special E4 Lead | onsight 30th Mar 1976
First ascent.

With a rest on a peg on the first pitch.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Main Wall Eliminate E4 Alternate Leads | onsight 20th May 1976
First ascent. With Richard Harrison.

With a point of aid. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Decadence E4 Alternate Leads 1980
First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin.

Brilliant! A modern debauchery connecting a subtle line of ramps from the base of The Pillar to the stance on Original Route. Whilst no single move compares with Bastille's crux, the climbing is bold and sustained without the comfort of pegs or bolts to go for. Cool nerve and careful wire arrangement important. the crux pitch was led on three 9mm ropes to avoid dislodging important runners. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Eroica E4 Lead 1970s
Illegal Eagle E3 Lead | onsight 30th Mar 1974
First ascent.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Robert Brown E3 Lead 30th Nov 1974
First ascent.

Free climbed the old Bastion Wall. A really first-class route, even if I say so myself! So it's the least I could do to name it after poor Rob.

...

I flung myself at the slimy, grass-filled crack, not daring to stop, for fear of falling off. Then after a very committing move over a bulge I was confronted by a steep fragile wall with uselessly fragile, shallow, greay finger pockets. It was getting dark fast and my fingers squirmed about in the grease, no light left except for three blood red tongues of sky tearing the jet black clouds on the horizon, absolutely no time left for emssing about, I frantically got a peg out to put in for pro. Unfortunately, as I whipped out my hammer I smashed myself in the mouth with it, bursting my lip and breaking off a corner and a flake of my front tooth.

Now I was really freaked out, the sun had long since gone below the ridge. I sped up the crisp wall like there was no tomorrow and gained the break below the enormous summit bulge. I reached up over this, and to my surprise my hand came onto a line of fine holds leading away to the left. I boated across in exuberance and exploded up to the summit tree, to the sound of loose rock crashing down the cliff from the east last ten feet. Poor old Jerry [Peel?] prussicked up in the dark. Mission accomplished. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Cumming Round the Mountain E3 Lead | onsight Jan 1976
First ascent.

Over a couple of January weekends in 1976. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

The Exorcist E3 Alternate Leads | onsight 24th Apr 1976
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Steppenwolf E3 Lead | onsight 24th May 1976
First ascent.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Heart of the Sun E3 Alternate Leads | onsight 19th Sep 1976
First ascent. With Chris King.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Yellow Edge E3 Alternate Leads | onsight 23rd Jun 1974
Lord of the Flies E2 Lead | onsight 10th Oct 1975
First ascent.

A peg was used to clean the last few feet. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Nimrod E2 Lead | onsight 29th Feb 1976
First ascent.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

The Last Gasp E2 Lead | onsight 18th May 1976
First ascent.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Scorched Earth E2 Lead | worked 11th Apr 1977
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Panting Dog Climb E2 Alternate Leads 10th Jul 1980
First ascent. With Mick Fowler.
Elder Crack E2 Lead | onsight
Hammer HVS Lead | onsight Aug 1974
Regular Northwest Face HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 1977

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Sticil Face D Alternate Leads | onsight Between 1st Mar 1980 and 1st Jan 1981
First ascent.

Arnis' 136th new route, and the last he recorded in his new routes book before he sadly died while soloing in the Alps. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.