Arnis Strapcans

Quick Info ˅

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight):	E5
Notable Partnerships
Chris King
Ken Wilson
Richard Harrison

Arnis Strapcans was a British climber who was active in the 1970s. He was killed in a suspected fall from the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc in 1980.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/the_late_arnie_strapcans-423688

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/arnie_strapcans-390263?v=1#x5631533

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight):	E5
Notable Partnerships
Chris King
Ken Wilson
Richard Harrison

Arnis Strapcans was a British climber who was active in the 1970s. He was killed in a suspected fall from the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc in 1980.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/the_late_arnie_strapcans-423688

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/arnie_strapcans-390263?v=1#x5631533

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Added at 06:12 on 08 December 2023

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=18...

Elder Crack (E2)

Added at 17:11 on 30 November 2023

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Elder Crack (E2)

Added at 17:11 on 30 November 2023

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Robert Brown (E3, FA)

Added at 14:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Hammer (HVS)

Added at 14:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Yellow Edge (E3)

Added at 14:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Yellow Edge (E3)

Added at 14:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Illegal Eagle (E3, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Robert Brown (E3, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Atmosfears (E5, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Atmosfears (E5, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Polaris (E5, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Polaris (E5, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

The Wall of Prey (E5, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

The Exorcist (E3, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Eroica (E4)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Yellow Edge (E3)

Added at 14:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Illegal Eagle (E3, FA)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Darkinbad the Brightdayler (E5)

Added at 18:01 on 08 January 2024

https://www.mountain-heritage.org/

Ascents

26 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.

Year	Climb	Grade	Style	Ascent Date
1970	Darkinbad the Brightdayler	E5	Lead \| did not finish	1970s
1970	Eroica	E4	Lead	1970s
1971
1972
1973
1974	Illegal Eagle	E3	Lead \| onsight	30th Mar 1974
	Illegal Eagle	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Yellow Edge	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	23rd Jun 1974
	Hammer	HVS	Lead \| onsight	Aug 1974
	Robert Brown	E3	Lead	30th Nov 1974
	Robert Brown	First ascent. Free climbed the old Bastion Wall. A really first-class route, even if I say so myself! So it's the least I could do to name it after poor Rob. ... I flung myself at the slimy, grass-filled crack, not daring to stop, for fear of falling off. Then after a very committing move over a bulge I was confronted by a steep fragile wall with uselessly fragile, shallow, greay finger pockets. It was getting dark fast and my fingers squirmed about in the grease, no light left except for three blood red tongues of sky tearing the jet black clouds on the horizon, absolutely no time left for emssing about, I frantically got a peg out to put in for pro. Unfortunately, as I whipped out my hammer I smashed myself in the mouth with it, bursting my lip and breaking off a corner and a flake of my front tooth. Now I was really freaked out, the sun had long since gone below the ridge. I sped up the crisp wall like there was no tomorrow and gained the break below the enormous summit bulge. I reached up over this, and to my surprise my hand came onto a line of fine holds leading away to the left. I boated across in exuberance and exploded up to the summit tree, to the sound of loose rock crashing down the cliff from the east last ten feet. Poor old Jerry [Peel?] prussicked up in the dark. Mission accomplished. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1975	Lord of the Flies	E2	Lead \| onsight	10th Oct 1975
1975	Lord of the Flies	First ascent. A peg was used to clean the last few feet. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1976	Cumming Round the Mountain	E3	Lead \| onsight	Jan 1976
	Cumming Round the Mountain	First ascent. Over a couple of January weekends in 1976. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Nimrod	E2	Lead \| onsight	29th Feb 1976
	Nimrod	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	G.T. Special	E4	Lead \| onsight	30th Mar 1976
	G.T. Special	First ascent. With a rest on a peg on the first pitch. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	The Exorcist	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	24th Apr 1976
	The Exorcist	First ascent. With Frank Cannings. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	The Last Gasp	E2	Lead \| onsight	18th May 1976
	The Last Gasp	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Main Wall Eliminate	E4	Alternate Leads \| onsight	20th May 1976
	Main Wall Eliminate	First ascent. With Richard Harrison. With a point of aid. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Steppenwolf	E3	Lead \| onsight	24th May 1976
	Steppenwolf	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Heart of the Sun	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	19th Sep 1976
	Heart of the Sun	First ascent. With Chris King. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1977	Regular Northwest Face	HVS	Alternate Leads \| onsight	1977
	Regular Northwest Face	References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Scorched Earth	E2	Lead \| worked	11th Apr 1977
	Scorched Earth	First ascent. With Frank Cannings. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1978	Atmosfears	E5	Lead \| onsight	11th Aug 1978
	Atmosfears	First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. With 2 points of aid. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Polaris	E5	Alternate Leads	13th Aug 1978
	Polaris	First ascent. With Frank Farrell and Gordon Jenkin. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	West Route	E5	Alternate Leads \| worked	Between 1st Oct 1978 and 1st Dec 1978
	West Route	First ascent. With Steve Monks. The finest and most demanding undertaking in Cheddar. Sustained technical difficulty in an unparalleled position. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1979	The Wall of Prey	E5	Lead	Aug 1979
	The Wall of Prey	First ascent. A real man-eater. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Depth Charge	E5	Alternate Leads	6th Oct 1979
	Depth Charge	First ascent. With Mick Fowler. Monstrously brilliant! A new breed in space walking. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
1980	Decadence	E4	Alternate Leads	1980
	Decadence	First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. Brilliant! A modern debauchery connecting a subtle line of ramps from the base of The Pillar to the stance on Original Route. Whilst no single move compares with Bastille's crux, the climbing is bold and sustained without the comfort of pegs or bolts to go for. Cool nerve and careful wire arrangement important. the crux pitch was led on three 9mm ropes to avoid dislodging important runners. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Sticil Face	D	Alternate Leads \| onsight	Between 1st Mar 1980 and 1st Jan 1981
	Sticil Face	First ascent. Arnis' 136th new route, and the last he recorded in his new routes book before he sadly died while soloing in the Alps. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
	Panting Dog Climb	E2	Alternate Leads	10th Jul 1980
	Panting Dog Climb	First ascent. With Mick Fowler.

Climb	Grade	Style	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade

Climb	Grade	Style	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade

Climb	Grade	Style	Ascent Date
Atmosfears	E5	Lead \| onsight	11th Aug 1978
Atmosfears	First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. With 2 points of aid. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Polaris	E5	Alternate Leads	13th Aug 1978
Polaris	First ascent. With Frank Farrell and Gordon Jenkin. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
West Route	E5	Alternate Leads \| worked	Between 1st Oct 1978 and 1st Dec 1978
West Route	First ascent. With Steve Monks. The finest and most demanding undertaking in Cheddar. Sustained technical difficulty in an unparalleled position. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
The Wall of Prey	E5	Lead	Aug 1979
The Wall of Prey	First ascent. A real man-eater. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Depth Charge	E5	Alternate Leads	6th Oct 1979
Depth Charge	First ascent. With Mick Fowler. Monstrously brilliant! A new breed in space walking. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Darkinbad the Brightdayler	E5	Lead \| did not finish	1970s
G.T. Special	E4	Lead \| onsight	30th Mar 1976
G.T. Special	First ascent. With a rest on a peg on the first pitch. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Main Wall Eliminate	E4	Alternate Leads \| onsight	20th May 1976
Main Wall Eliminate	First ascent. With Richard Harrison. With a point of aid. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Decadence	E4	Alternate Leads	1980
Decadence	First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. Brilliant! A modern debauchery connecting a subtle line of ramps from the base of The Pillar to the stance on Original Route. Whilst no single move compares with Bastille's crux, the climbing is bold and sustained without the comfort of pegs or bolts to go for. Cool nerve and careful wire arrangement important. the crux pitch was led on three 9mm ropes to avoid dislodging important runners. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Eroica	E4	Lead	1970s
Illegal Eagle	E3	Lead \| onsight	30th Mar 1974
Illegal Eagle	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Robert Brown	E3	Lead	30th Nov 1974
Robert Brown	First ascent. Free climbed the old Bastion Wall. A really first-class route, even if I say so myself! So it's the least I could do to name it after poor Rob. ... I flung myself at the slimy, grass-filled crack, not daring to stop, for fear of falling off. Then after a very committing move over a bulge I was confronted by a steep fragile wall with uselessly fragile, shallow, greay finger pockets. It was getting dark fast and my fingers squirmed about in the grease, no light left except for three blood red tongues of sky tearing the jet black clouds on the horizon, absolutely no time left for emssing about, I frantically got a peg out to put in for pro. Unfortunately, as I whipped out my hammer I smashed myself in the mouth with it, bursting my lip and breaking off a corner and a flake of my front tooth. Now I was really freaked out, the sun had long since gone below the ridge. I sped up the crisp wall like there was no tomorrow and gained the break below the enormous summit bulge. I reached up over this, and to my surprise my hand came onto a line of fine holds leading away to the left. I boated across in exuberance and exploded up to the summit tree, to the sound of loose rock crashing down the cliff from the east last ten feet. Poor old Jerry [Peel?] prussicked up in the dark. Mission accomplished. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Cumming Round the Mountain	E3	Lead \| onsight	Jan 1976
Cumming Round the Mountain	First ascent. Over a couple of January weekends in 1976. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
The Exorcist	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	24th Apr 1976
The Exorcist	First ascent. With Frank Cannings. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Steppenwolf	E3	Lead \| onsight	24th May 1976
Steppenwolf	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Heart of the Sun	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	19th Sep 1976
Heart of the Sun	First ascent. With Chris King. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Yellow Edge	E3	Alternate Leads \| onsight	23rd Jun 1974
Lord of the Flies	E2	Lead \| onsight	10th Oct 1975
Lord of the Flies	First ascent. A peg was used to clean the last few feet. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Nimrod	E2	Lead \| onsight	29th Feb 1976
Nimrod	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
The Last Gasp	E2	Lead \| onsight	18th May 1976
The Last Gasp	First ascent. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Scorched Earth	E2	Lead \| worked	11th Apr 1977
Scorched Earth	First ascent. With Frank Cannings. References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.
Panting Dog Climb	E2	Alternate Leads	10th Jul 1980
Panting Dog Climb	First ascent. With Mick Fowler.
Elder Crack	E2	Lead \| onsight
Hammer	HVS	Lead \| onsight	Aug 1974
Regular Northwest Face	HVS	Alternate Leads \| onsight	1977
Regular Northwest Face	References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Climb	Grade	Style	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Sticil Face	D	Alternate Leads \| onsight	Between 1st Mar 1980 and 1st Jan 1981
Sticil Face	First ascent. Arnis' 136th new route, and the last he recorded in his new routes book before he sadly died while soloing in the Alps. [1] References [1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.