Burden of Dreams | 9A Boulder problem

Also known as The Lappnor Project.

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (Toru Nakajima, Shawn Raboutou and Aidan Roberts to name a few) before Will Bosi made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by Marko Siivinen:

At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [Anton Johansson] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take Nalle there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. Aidan Roberts made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with Core Climbing to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, Will Bosi trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

References

[1] Marko Siivinen on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/


Pics + Vids

Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
Added at 13:02 on 08 February 2021
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Nalle Hukkataival
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Added at 07:04 on 16 April 2023
Will Bosi
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Added at 16:04 on 16 April 2023
Will Bosi
Added at 04:06 on 07 June 2023
Will Bosi
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Added at 09:04 on 14 April 2023
Will Bosi
Added at 09:04 on 15 April 2023

Ascents

2 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Nalle Hukkataival Boulder (Worked) 24th Oct 2016 9A

Nalle invested a huge amount of time and effort in to the problem before finally making the first ascent, spending 3 years and 4000+ attempts on the problem.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/nalle_hukkataival_puts_up_burden_of_dreams_-_font_9a-70761

[2] https://vimeo.com/241518809

[3] https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thelappnorproject17

[4] While working the problem Nalle posted about in a series of Instagram posts:

Will Bosi Boulder (Worked) 12th Apr 2023 9A
14 sessions.

The long-awaited second ascent after 24 days of work, with 10 sessions on a replica created using 3d scans of the holds and then 14 sessions on the real thing.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CrAtt4YtyXc/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/04/first_repeat_of_burden_of_dreams_9a_by_will_bosi-73279

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/will-bosi-repeats-burden-of-dreams-9a-in-finland.html

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4F0rw3OCCtjOTO9pPCREGg

[5] https://www.instagram.com/p/CrGeNBatv6G/

[6] https://youtu.be/SlUw8X7xuq0