Buoux

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This wonderful line is a vampire. Her holds cut through my fingers, they skin them raw and I lose my fingerprints, my identity! Her holds, I grab them like a stem covered in thorns in order to climb up to the calyx of the flower, my sweat waters it. This line has taken me over and it’s all I can think of, all I want is her. I have been vampirised. This line is thirsty for my blood to feed her own beauty, I live solely for her.

This cross-through opens my face to the world. Thanks to it, I offer you a rose. With you who are watching me, I create an emotional team, I become an artist. [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-la-rose-et-le-vampire/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1661583483907820

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k @ 53mins

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/289577857775063

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/14-year-old-erwan-legrand-sends-a-5-14c-barefoot/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIW2FlzMVdU/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsHjQxicqNw

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DVgsBY5jd05/

I instantly fell in love with the route. I'd heard so much about it, for so many years, and as soon as I finally touched the holds, I was completely obsessed. I also knew right from the beginning that I would be able to climb it one day, perhaps even the next winter if I trained properly.

...

Marc's vision was incredibile. He saw the line and wanted to bolt it because it's so beautiful, and when he tried the moves he imagined they would be possible one day. Not by him, but by someone much stronger, far in the future. At that time, chipping was more frequent, so it would have been easy to chip some holds and make it easier, but Marc didn't want this. And it became something like a "protected" project. His vision, his ethics made him leave the route exactly as mother nature created it, and I need to thank him for this. He was right. And so was everyone else who tried and left it as it is. It's the most perfect climb on the most beautiful holds with amazing moves in an incredible position. At my home crag Buoux, which even today still has many other hard projects for the future. I'm in paradise. [7]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DSTP2Z8ANtI/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/news/erwan-legrand-17-fas-beginning-of-the-strongness-9a-8tpfn

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reels/DVgp9iQjJWi/

[4] https://fanatic-climbing.com/erwan-legrand-libere-le-bombe-bleu-erwan-legrand-frees-le-bombe-bleu/

[5] https://www.grimper.com/news-erwan-legrand-fait-tomber-bombe-bleu-buoux-ecrit-page-histoire-escalade

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/DV6eZeAjBBh/

[7] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/interview-erwan-legrand-on-first-ascent-of-le-bombe-bleu-at-buoux.html

[8] https://gripped.com/profiles/interview-after-bombe-bleu-5-15b-erwan-legrand-shows-us-how-to-climb-barefoot/