Voyager | 8B Boulder problem at Burbage

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First ascent.

Second ascent. 3 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/landman-15-climbs-voyager-8b

[2] Winter Sessions @ 47:00

Third ascent. 2 sessions.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6413.0.html

[2] Climb Issue 23, page 12

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/54526166

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/significant-repeats.10607/post-470816

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/115998767

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg473547.html#msg473547

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/120252530

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/155391063

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=603237206494388

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Bs6d5llxLnY

Will was the first to repeat it post break and suggested the boulder was more on the 8B+ side now.

Yeah, it’s such a good problem! Learning the move took a while, but in the end, I didn’t quite hit the right hand. Still, I felt solid in the position and was able to sketch through to the top. Instead of using four fingers, I had to go with three, and when I hit that crimp, I fully crimped on it. At that point, I was just praying it wouldn’t rip and hoping for the best up there. I think it’s been three years since the hold broke, and I don’t think anyone has done that move until today. It’s a hard one—people have tried it, and from those I’ve spoken to who attempted it before and after the break, they say it’s a lot harder now. I never tried it before, so I can’t compare, but it definitely felt hard for the grade. With grit, when you finally send the climb, the sequence always seems to work out better and feels a bit easier. But to be honest, this one still felt pretty tough at the top. There aren’t many moves, and I suppose with a lot of good days and good skin, you could learn it quite well. Still, it felt hard. I was pulling really hard through the top. I definitely think it’s more than likely on the 8B+ side.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZCx-QfINLd/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xgXpMRj1HY