Stanage

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A very hard ascent for 1926. A series of photographs show Wood on the climb utilising double ropes but, uncharacteristically, it was not recorded at the time. This and the difficulty have lead some to question the ascent.

References

[1] Grimes, N (2007) Stanage: The Definitive Guide p325. United Kingdom: BMC

[2] Kelly, P, Hoey, G, Barker B (2013) Peak Rock. p45 UK: vertebrate publishing

References

[1] https://rucksackclub.org/2023/04/14/a-dip-into-the-club-journals-from-1993-just-a-bit-difficult-by-peter-harding/

References

[1] Graham Hoey, Geoff Millburn Stanage 1989

Hard technical climbing for the time.

Alan Richard McHardy:

Daydreamer wasn't hard to Brayshaw. There was a pebble and Bob could make a couple of moves up and stand on the pebble. From there, he was so tall, he could reach the ledge halfway up and it wasn't all that hard. I remember watching Gray West doing it in a pair of Kletts. He stood on the pebble and the pebble fell off and so did he. But it was impossibly hard for a normal sized person.[1]

References

[1] 'Peak Rock', Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa

[3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12

John's first new route, at the age of 12

John arrived at the crag to find the arête caked in Drummond's chalk, inspiring the name.

Solo after top rope practice.

Certainly Ulysses was very dangerous. I mean, it was really dangerous. If you think, when I went there, there was nobody on the crag. We got the bus to Redmires and walked, so it was an hour's walk, nobody on the crag, no safety, nothing, no bouldering mats, no phones. I mean, if anything had happened, I would have been absolutely screwed. I only top roped it 10 times over two days, and then top roped it once and did it. I mean, it's ridiculous. I mean, now you top rope it till you're blue in the face. Till you have it totally wired. I mean, I top roped it 10 times and fell off it twice. I mean, it's crazy. (2)

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

[2] https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000554413296&r=3285

With side runners.

Johnny dossed below the crag for three days trying the route.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 103, page 18 /library/11124/mountain-103

Allen originally started by coming in from the right, returning later to add the 7C direct start.

Dawes onsighted Ulysses straight after.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

John had previously soloed the route in winter above a large snowdrift, only to fail at the cornice.

After solving the start, Ron tried the upper moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

Starting on its right-hand side, I got my feet on a jutting block under the boulder's lip and threw my left hand up onto the blunt edge of the arête. For my right hand there was a sloper, and using this I'd get whatever I could - knee, toe, whatever - onto the arête and then go again with my left hand. It was a desperate move and it took weeks before I could do it, trying it again and again each time I went up to Stanage. This kind of behaviour was unprecedented for me. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[2] Ron Fawcett, Ed Douglas, ‘Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2011

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=81792

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 13 /library/11314/mountain-129

References

[1] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 13 /library/11317/mountain-134

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838200706399

Top roped and then led on the same day.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117980099658876

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117981222992097

Graded B13 on the Peak bouldering scale

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO71X2Zr3is

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 15

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 67, page 75

On his first attempt Robin soloed the scary start, placed the cams in the break and then down climbed to the ground. The cams were then left pre-clipped for subsequent attempts.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 80

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 72

Confirmed over email with Malcolm Smith and Steve.

Climbed using Jason Myers' original jump method for Brad Pit which makes the stand start significantly harder.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 99, page 11

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/peak-stanage-left-wobbler-area-requiem-for-klem-8a.28566/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca-I8QAFAMv/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DM53MUOt_xS/