Colin Kirkus


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 18th September 1910
Age: 31 years old
Date of death: 14th September 1942
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Onsight): HVS
Notable Partnerships
Alf Bridge
Wilfrid Noyce
Albert Hargreaves

Albert Hargreaves:

As a man he was a delightful companion on the hills, full of fun and interest in the things about him. He was kindliness itself and also most unassuming about his climbing, yet never carrying his modesty so far as to appear to be fishing for adulation. To those who did not know him well he may have appeared dull, but this was not so—he was a simple soul, not much interested in the complicated ways of modern life, finding his escape and true expression in his mountaineering. [3]

References

[1] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2011/05/colin-kirkus-gemini-rising.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/colin_kirkus_routes-3283

[3] In Memoriam, Albert Hargreaves and Jack Longland. Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 168 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Contributors
39 contributions since 7th September 2022.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 18th September 1910
Date of death: 14th September 1942
Age: 31 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Onsight): HVS
Notable Partnerships
Alf Bridge
Wilfrid Noyce
Albert Hargreaves

Albert Hargreaves:

As a man he was a delightful companion on the hills, full of fun and interest in the things about him. He was kindliness itself and also most unassuming about his climbing, yet never carrying his modesty so far as to appear to be fishing for adulation. To those who did not know him well he may have appeared dull, but this was not so—he was a simple soul, not much interested in the complicated ways of modern life, finding his escape and true expression in his mountaineering. [3]

References

[1] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2011/05/colin-kirkus-gemini-rising.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/colin_kirkus_routes-3283

[3] In Memoriam, Albert Hargreaves and Jack Longland. Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 168 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Contributors
39 contributions since 7th September 2022.

Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

13 recorded ascents.

Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Kirkus' Corner E1 Solo 1934
First ascent.
Lot's Groove HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 25th Jun 1929
First ascent.

Albert Hargreaves:

I believe that Hicks' party was a bit chary about taking him along with them on their first day, and they might well have been because Colin lured them on to the Glyder Fach and there pointed out Lot's Groove as something he thought he would like to try. They obliged with a rope from above and in due course, to their astonishment he led it, only Hicks being able to follow. [2]

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

[2] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Kirkus's Route VS Solo | onsight 11th Jul 1928
First ascent.

The crack was about 40 feet high and overhung at the top. It looked very difficult. I tied the rope round my waist, with the other end hanging free, and started up. The crack was just about wide enough to fit a boot, and I progressed chiefly by jamming my hands and my feet. In places there were small chockstones jammed in the crack and these were a great help, though I had first to test them to make sure they were firm.

After an exhausting struggle I arrived at the overhang. I felt tired, because when you are climbing a pitch that is really vertical you get no rest at all. And now I had the overhang to tackle, where my whole weight would come on my hands. There was a convenient little stone here, jammed firmly in the crack, and I threaded the whole length of my rope down behind it, hanging on meanwhile with my left hand only. Then I tied myself on to the chockstone and was able to rest my arms, hanging more or less bodily on the rope.

Before I started off again I untied the rope from the chockstone but still left it hanging down behind, hoping that it might jam and hold me if I did happen to fall off the next section. Then I started up the overhang. It was very strenuous, and I struggled frantically. Then, just at a crucial moment, my rucksack jammed in the crack. With a despairing effort I worked it off my shoulder and abandoned it, precious camera and all. Another blind struggle and I was up, surprised and relieved to find the rucksack still hanging over the other shoulder. [1]

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

Botterill's Slab VS Alternate Leads 1929
With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Gibson's Chimney VS Lead 1929

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Central Route VS Solo | onsight 26th Jun 1929
First ascent.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

Longland's Climb VS Alternate Leads 29th Jun 1929
Second ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Great Slab VS Alternate Leads | onsight 15th Jun 1930
First ascent.

Albert Hargreaves:

To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Direct Route VS Alternate Leads 22nd Jun 1930
First ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Mickledore Grooves VS Alternate Leads | onsight Between 1st Jan 1931 and 1st Jan 1934
First ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 171 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Central Rib HS Alternate Leads | onsight 28th Sep 1929
First ascent. With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

Grooved Wall HS Alternate Leads | onsight 15th Dec 1929
First ascent. With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

Marble Slab HS Lead 21st Jul 1935
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade