Colin Kirkus

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First ascent.

The crack was about 40 feet high and overhung at the top. It looked very difficult. I tied the rope round my waist, with the other end hanging free, and started up. The crack was just about wide enough to fit a boot, and I progressed chiefly by jamming my hands and my feet. In places there were small chockstones jammed in the crack and these were a great help, though I had first to test them to make sure they were firm.

After an exhausting struggle I arrived at the overhang. I felt tired, because when you are climbing a pitch that is really vertical you get no rest at all. And now I had the overhang to tackle, where my whole weight would come on my hands. There was a convenient little stone here, jammed firmly in the crack, and I threaded the whole length of my rope down behind it, hanging on meanwhile with my left hand only. Then I tied myself on to the chockstone and was able to rest my arms, hanging more or less bodily on the rope.

Before I started off again I untied the rope from the chockstone but still left it hanging down behind, hoping that it might jam and hold me if I did happen to fall off the next section. Then I started up the overhang. It was very strenuous, and I struggled frantically. Then, just at a crucial moment, my rucksack jammed in the crack. With a despairing effort I worked it off my shoulder and abandoned it, precious camera and all. Another blind struggle and I was up, surprised and relieved to find the rucksack still hanging over the other shoulder. [1]

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent.

Albert Hargreaves:

I believe that Hicks' party was a bit chary about taking him along with them on their first day, and they might well have been because Colin lured them on to the Glyder Fach and there pointed out Lot's Groove as something he thought he would like to try. They obliged with a rope from above and in due course, to their astonishment he led it, only Hicks being able to follow. [2]

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

[2] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

Second ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent. With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

First ascent. With Albert Hargreaves.

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)

First ascent.

Albert Hargreaves:

To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent.

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 171 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

First ascent.

First ascent.