Nationality: | GB |
Date of death: | 23rd April 2019 |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 6A |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E5 |
Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E4 |
Notable Partnerships | |
Oliver Hill |
Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]
[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064
[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond
17 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | Style | Date |
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1965 | Delicatessen | E2 | Alternate Leads | 1965 |
First ascent. With Jack Street.
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1966 | ||||
1967 | Krapp's Last Tape | E3 | Lead | May 1967 |
First ascent.
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The Blik | E3 | Lead | May 1967 | |
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
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1968 | ||||
1969 | ||||
1970 | Longhope Route Direct | E9 | Aid | worked | Jul 1970 |
First ascent.
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1971 | Banana Finger | 6A | Boulder | worked | 1971 |
First ascent.
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Archangel | E3 | Solo | worked | Apr 1971 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 [2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa [3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12 |
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1972 | Don't Slip | E5 | Lead | worked | 5th Apr 1972 |
1973 | Linden | E6 | Lead | 1973 |
First ascent. 2 points of aid.
With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain:
To which Drummond replied:
Though in a later interview he repented:
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 |
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Wuthering | E2 | Lead | 1973 | |
First ascent.
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1974 | ||||
1975 | Chameleon | E4 | Lead | 1975 |
First ascent.
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The Asp | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
First ascent.
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Embankment 3 | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
First ascent.
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1976 | ||||
1977 | ||||
1978 | ||||
1979 | ||||
1980 | ||||
1981 | ||||
1982 | ||||
1983 | ||||
1984 | ||||
1985 | Don | E4 | Solo | 1985 |
First ascent.
|
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Banana Finger | 6A | Boulder | worked | 1971 | |
First ascent.
|
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Longhope Route Direct | E9 | Aid | worked | Jul 1970 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Linden | E6 | Lead | 1973 | |
First ascent. 2 points of aid.
With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain:
To which Drummond replied:
Though in a later interview he repented:
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 |
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Don't Slip | E5 | Lead | worked | 5th Apr 1972 | |
Chameleon | E4 | Lead | 1975 | |
First ascent.
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Don | E4 | Solo | 1985 | |
First ascent.
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The Boldest | E4 | Lead | ground up | ||
Over three days! References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 |
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Great Wall | E4 | Lead | onsight | ||
Fifth ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 |
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Krapp's Last Tape | E3 | Lead | May 1967 | |
First ascent.
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The Blik | E3 | Lead | May 1967 | |
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
|
||||
Archangel | E3 | Solo | worked | Apr 1971 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940 [2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa [3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12 |
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The Asp | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
First ascent.
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Embankment 3 | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
First ascent.
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Delicatessen | E2 | Alternate Leads | 1965 | |
First ascent. With Jack Street.
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Wuthering | E2 | Lead | 1973 | |
First ascent.
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The Strand | E2 | Lead | ||
First ascent.
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A Dream of White Horses | HVS | Alternate Leads | onsight | ||
First ascent.
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Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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