James McHaffie

James had an epic whilst trying to onsight the route:

After a few tough sequences leading up right to get stood up in semi balance on crimps I thought I was ‘in’, a small amount of euphoria started to arrive. Unfortunately the handholds went dry, just having those ‘only for balance’ type hand holds. The move was obvious, put your left foot high onto a small edge and spring for what was hopefully an edge above. I was pretty baked from the effort so far and could see the feet went shit beyond. Half an hour of failing to progress via any possible option and the invincibility had worn off with the pain of reality soon to become the biggest epic I’d ever had in climbing dangerous routes. I think the sun had hit me before I’d realised I’d have to drop the ropes and it was 2 hours or so later before the ropes, 2* 9mm’s tied together got thrown blindly from Adam Wilde out over Cloggy to rescue my absolutely fucked body and mind from the clutches of the black cliff.

The situation had been horrendous for both of us, he was looking at having a teenage kid die on him and I had assumed for some length of time I was going to die as my tendons had been ebbing away in a really terrifying manner. I also knew my family would be devastated and I knew it was stupid. I remember thinking so fast about everything. Everything I wouldn’t ever be able to do. I was so sure I was a dead man. I’d pleaded with every god I could think of for a miracle and tbh when I sailed down to near the base of Vember on that line it did feel like I’d received one. [1]

[1] http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock

I was struggling with the key wire placement – I reckon I only had ten seconds to place it and clip it before I would fall. But then I sussed a more comfortable body position and knew it was on. As for the grade, well, I think with the pecker hook it doesn't warrant E9. E8 7a seems a more accurate appraisal.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/06/james_mchaffie_downgrades_trauma_to_e8-37873

Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/4925236

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/06/james_mchaffie_tom_cruises_mission_impossible-47686

He went back a few days later for some pictures and threw down a quick lap!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/08/james_mchaffie_repeats_the_big_bang_-_9a-63370

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=4217119138388286&set=pcb.4217120798388120

https://vimeo.com/28107941

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLz56lDzjAg

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg325555.html#msg325555

In a day and same day as Unjustified!

In a day and same day as Predator!

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-meltdown

Guessed the date based on the blog post.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KQFQXrMmwM

Swapping leads with Ben Bransby. James led the crucial crux pitch.

https://vimeo.com/67457960

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaDPqsDNpO1/

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/04/megalopa_8c+_for_james_mchaffie-69637.

Without doubt it’s one of the best single pitch routes, sport or trad, that I’ve ever done. It’s physically around 8a+, safe and straight-forward to get the gear in. The rock is immaculate and the moves are great. The climbing was a lot better than I expected with a lot of cool and varied moves. A great route with a great name.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/divided_years_e89_ground_up_-_mchaffie+pasquill-69801

https://vimeo.com/187316913

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muSoaZCkN-0

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/04/new_12-skyhook_e9_by_james_mchaffie_house_of_talons-70418

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/new_e9_7a_for_mchaffie_on_dinas_mot_-_dark_religion-70461

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/james-mchaffie-repeats-face-mecca-e9/

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/moonrise-kingdom

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

I was drawn up there almost unconsciously. I’d justified it to myself, partly through listening to Jerrys take on the route. I’ve always loved treading in the footsteps of heros [sic] and this was another opportunity. It wasn’t about the quality of the route, it was about the experience it offered. It was also a mental block and I hate the thought of those, they just shouldn’t be allowed.

...

I’d done more than 200 routes of E7-9 and this bastard felt amongst the most serious few leads I’d ever done. It was more than just my history with it for sure, the way Jerry went was really dangerous and if Leo went that way as a 17 year old in shit shoes it’s just extraordinary and shows the mental audacity he had in the late 90s. From reading into Jerrys account of his ascent I’m pretty sure this is where he went and I’ll just throw it out there and say I think he did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. [1]

[1] http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock

This ascent marked the end of James' challenge to climb every route in Ken Wilson's book Extreme Rock and the first person to complete the challenge.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/05/james_mchaffie_becomes_first_extreme_rock_completionist-72402

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRwGjwMFS5t/