Rare Lichen | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn y Tarw

United Kingdom / Wales / Bangor

Quick Info

Grade E9
Type Trad climb
Crag Clogwyn y Tarw
Country United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Rock type Rhyolite
History
First ascent Leo Houlding (Aug 1997)
Recorded repeats 14

Quick Info

Grade E9
Type Trad climb
Crag Clogwyn y Tarw
Country United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Rock type Rhyolite
History
First ascent Leo Houlding (Aug 1997)
Recorded repeats 14
Contributors
21 contributions since 31st January 2024.
6 contributions since 28th September 2026.
5 contributions since 17th March 2025.

Pics + Vids

Loading pics and vids...

Ascents

15 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 9

Second ascent. Pre-placed gear. Easier than Gribin Wall Climb.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 64

First female ascent.

Second british woman to climb E9.

Did Rare Lichen up on Griben Facet in the Ogwen Valley which is given E9 6c. Such a cool route with some seriously small gear! I was not hopeful of doing it as it was pretty grim walking in then it burnt off! The rock felt a bit smeggy and just as I was about to set off some low level cloud came in. Decided to have a look and shout for a rope if it felt awful. Middle pic is of me pulling a terrified face just before setting off and the end pic is of me celebrating still being in one piece and not in a hospital. Thanks to Alex for belaying me very attentively and Ray and Llyr for being very nice whilst filming it.

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/emma-twyford-interview

[2] https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames/status/382211879474855937

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0yIxeGoXOs

Nathan Lee Lead | worked 4th Apr 2014
Ed Booth Lead | worked 28th Sep 2015
Tom Livingstone Lead | worked 19th Jul 2016

Third british woman to climb E9?

Eve tested the fall before getting the route done. Fortunately the small wires that protect the route held!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/eve_lancashire_repeats_rare_lichen_e9_6c-70658

[2] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1109267069121075

[3] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt1

[4] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt2

Alex Moore Lead | worked 25th Jul 2023
Angus Kille Lead | worked
James Taylor Lead | worked
Charlie Woodburn Lead | worked
Morus Sanderson Lead | worked
James McHaffie Lead | worked