Rare Lichen | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Y Tarw

First ascent.

Second ascent. Pre-placed gear. Easier than Gribin Wall Climb.

References

[1] OnThe Edge Issue 101, page 64

First female ascent.

Second british woman to climb E9.

Did Rare Lichen up on Griben Facet in the Ogwen Valley which is given E9 6c. Such a cool route with some seriously small gear! I was not hopeful of doing it as it was pretty grim walking in then it burnt off! The rock felt a bit smeggy and just as I was about to set off some low level cloud came in. Decided to have a look and shout for a rope if it felt awful. Middle pic is of me pulling a terrified face just before setting off and the end pic is of me celebrating still being in one piece and not in a hospital. Thanks to Alex for belaying me very attentively and Ray and Llyr for being very nice whilst filming it.

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/emma-twyford-interview

[2] https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames/status/382211879474855937

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0yIxeGoXOs

Third british woman to climb E9?

Eve tested the fall before getting the route done. Fortunately the small wires that protect the route held!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/eve_lancashire_repeats_rare_lichen_e9_6c-70658

[2] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1109267069121075

[3] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt1

[4] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt2