Rare Lichen | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Y Tarw (The Gribin Facet)


Pics + Vids

Emma Twyford
Added at 11:12 on 19 December 2020


13 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Leo Houlding Lead | worked Aug 1997
First ascent.
Emma Twyford Lead | worked 23rd Sep 2013
First female ascent.

Second british woman to climb E9.

Did Rare Lichen up on Griben Facet in the Ogwen Valley which is given E9 6c. Such a cool route with some seriously small gear! I was not hopeful of doing it as it was pretty grim walking in then it burnt off! The rock felt a bit smeggy and just as I was about to set off some low level cloud came in. Decided to have a look and shout for a rope if it felt awful. Middle pic is of me pulling a terrified face just before setting off and the end pic is of me celebrating still being in one piece and not in a hospital. Thanks to Alex for belaying me very attentively and Ray and Llyr for being very nice whilst filming it.


[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/emma-twyford-interview

[2] https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames/status/382211879474855937

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0yIxeGoXOs

Nathan Lee Lead | worked 4th Apr 2014
Ed Booth Lead | worked 28th Sep 2015
Eve Lancashire Lead | worked 29th Aug 2016

Third british woman to climb E9?

Eve tested the fall before getting the route done. Fortunately the small wires that protect the route held!


[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/eve_lancashire_repeats_rare_lichen_e9_6c-70658

[2] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1109267069121075

[3] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt1

[4] Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt2

Alex Moore Lead | worked 25th Jul 2023
Calum Muskett Lead | worked
Tom Livingstone Lead | worked
Charlie Woodburn Lead | worked
Morus Sanderson Lead | worked
James McHaffie Lead | worked
James Taylor Lead | worked
Angus Kille Lead | worked