Trauma | E9 Trad climb at Dinas Mot

On an earlier attempt Leo took a nasty fall on to the slab at the start of the route when a dodgy russian peg he was resting on popped out.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CjblYEnDC8j/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKXosd-POHE

I was struggling with the key wire placement – I reckon I only had ten seconds to place it and clip it before I would fall. But then I sussed a more comfortable body position and knew it was on. As for the grade, well, I think with the pecker hook it doesn't warrant E9. E8 7a seems a more accurate appraisal.

James got on the route again some years later and revised his grade suggestion to E9:

The downgrading game is bollox a lot of the time. Me n Robins said trauma was e8, I got back on it years later n it's definitely e9. I thought Longhope was e8 7a when I did main pitch in 2012 as was sport fit but its safe e9. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/06/james_mchaffie_downgrades_trauma_to_e8-37873

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CsHXDtQIJic/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujLQkKI1YpI