Face Mecca | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)


Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Nick Dixon
Added at 22:02 on 25 February 2024
Nick Dixon
Added at 22:02 on 25 February 2024


3 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Nick Dixon Lead | worked Jun 1989
First ascent.

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]


[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Johnny Dawes Lead | worked 1995
Second ascent.
James McHaffie Lead | worked Jun 2016
Third ascent.

It's a fantastic bit of climbing, very Nick Dixon, I used about five thumb spraggs on it and it has quite knacky manoeuvres. Glad I never tried to onsight it as I wouldn't have got very far and the finish would be gnarly if you didn't know it as the peg and rurp would rip in a fall which would give a very big fall.

I was happy to do it in a day. Pete Hurley had brought up a spare beer as well. [2]


[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/james-mchaffie-repeats-face-mecca-e9/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/face_mecca_e9_6c_for_james_mchaffie-70510