Once Upon a Time in the Southwest | E9 Trad climb at Dyers Lookout

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/11/birkett_strikes_again_in_the_southwest-58697

First female ascent.

With this ascent Hazel became the first British woman to climb E9.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/07/hazel_findlay_on_once_upon_e9-63019

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUUyI39FOf4

Anna had very limited experience of trad climbing at the time having only a few weeks under her belt!

The working process was a bit unusual, seeing as it was the first time I was placing the majority of these gear sizes. Having only really placed gear on 5.9s, these micro sizes were completely new to me. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUTQwQ_DYVm/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/09/once_upon_a_time_in_the_south_west_e9_6c_by_anna_hazlett_and_tom_randall-72891

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUcTnSkD_TD/

[4] https://latticetraining.com/2021/09/17/climbing-my-first-5-14-anna-hazelnutt-ask-lattice/

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTT2TRhuJQY

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dNWbndhciM

Fast forward a decade and I accidentally (or was it by necessity?) starting singing Ava Max “Kings & Queens” to myself on Once Up A Time down in Devon. Almost instantly, I just got lost in the words and the movement flow combo. Literally everything just connected together and what (for me) was quite an intimidating climb became ridiculously fun and engaging. I almost wanted the whole thing to never end. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUVVcwes1-Q/

I removed the top peg in the hope of revealing a bomber ballnut placement, but there was just flared mud and bugs.