Longhope Route Direct | E9 Multi-pitch at St John's Head

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9 pitches. Trad version of Longhope Route (A2). See also Longhope Route.

Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.

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remus

27 contributions since 9th February 2021.

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Ascents

5 successful ascents recorded.

	Climber	Style	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
	Dave MacLeod	Lead \| worked	21st Jun 2011	E10
	First ascent. First free ascent.
	References [1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html
	James McHaffie	Alternate Leads \| worked	25th May 2013	E9
	With Ben Bransby.
	James led the crucial crux pitch. References [1] https://vimeo.com/67457960 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088
	Ben Bransby	Alternate Leads \| worked	25th May 2013
	With James McHaffie.
	Fulmar vomited in my chalk bag at some point but I didn't realise until chalking up to start the crux, nasty! [2] References [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_johns_head-3034/longhope_direct-336561
	Robbie Phillips	Alternate Leads \| worked	25th May 2022	E10
	With Alex Moore.
	Swapping leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time). References [1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CeBHtZespew/ [2] Not a Hope in Hoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5O_iysYwj0
	Alex Moore	Alternate Leads \| worked	25th May 2022
	With Robbie Phillips.
	Swapping leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time). While practicing the crux pitch on a previous day Alex took a 30m fall, snapping 2 wires before stopping level with the belay!