Longhope Route Direct | E9 Trad climb at St Johns Head

See also Longhope Route.

Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.


Pics + Vids

James McHaffie
Added at 07:02 on 09 February 2021
Robbie Phillips
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:05 on 26 May 2022
Robbie Phillips
Added at 16:11 on 22 November 2022

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ed Drummond Aid (Worked) 1st July 1970 (approx)
Oliver Hill Aid (Worked) 1st July 1970 (approx)
Dave MacLeod Lead (Worked) 21st June 2011

First free ascent.

https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html

Ben Bransby Alternate Leads (Worked) 25th May 2013

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088

James McHaffie Alternate Leads (Worked) 25th May 2013

Swapping leads with Ben Bransby. James led the crucial crux pitch.

https://vimeo.com/67457960

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088

Alex Moore Alternate Leads (Worked) 25th May 2022

Alex and partner Robbie Philips swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time).

While practicing the crux pitch on a previous day Alex took a 30m fall, snapping 2 wires before stopping level with the belay!

Robbie Phillips Alternate Leads (Worked) 25th May 2022 E10

Robbie and partner Alex Moore swapped leads on the lower section. Robbie then lead the crux pitch placing the gear before abbing the pitch so Alex could also lead it (on Robbie's gear, to save time).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CeBHtZespew/

[2] Not a Hope in Hoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5O_iysYwj0