Indian Face | E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.

Pics + Vids

Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Dave MacLeod
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
Angus Kille
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
John Redhead
Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
© Paul Williams


9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Johnny Dawes Lead (Worked) 04 Oct 1986

I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. Arthur Birtwhistle on Diagonal, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...

Dave MacLeod Lead (Worked) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

George Ulrich Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

James McHaffie Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

Calum Muskett Lead (Worked) 11 Jul 2013 (approx)

Angus Kille Lead (Worked) 01 Jul 2018 (approx)

Nick Dixon Lead (Worked)

Second ascent.

Neil Gresham Lead (Worked)

Third ascent.

John Redhead Lead (Did not finish)

John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it 'The Tormented Ejaculation'.

John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered the first ascenionist who then scraped the painting off.