The first E9 in the UK.
Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:
It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.
9 recorded ascents.
|Johnny Dawes||Lead (Worked)||✓||04 Oct 1986|
|Dave MacLeod||Lead (Worked)||01 Jun 2010 (approx)|
|George Ulrich||Lead (Worked)||09 Jul 2013 (approx)|
|James McHaffie||Lead (Worked)||09 Jul 2013 (approx)|
|Calum Muskett||Lead (Worked)||11 Jul 2013 (approx)|
|Angus Kille||Lead (Worked)||01 Jul 2018 (approx)|
|Nick Dixon||Lead (Worked)|
|Neil Gresham||Lead (Worked)|
|John Redhead||Lead (Did not finish)|
John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it 'The Tormented Ejaculation'.
John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered the first ascenionist who then scraped the painting off.