Indian Face, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

E9 Trad climb

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.


Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Dave MacLeod


9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Johnny Dawes Lead (Worked) 04 Oct 1986

Dave MacLeod Lead (Worked) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

James McHaffie Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

George Ulrich Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

Calum Muskett Lead (Worked) 11 Jul 2013 (approx)

Angus Kille Lead (Worked) 01 Jul 2018 (approx)

Nick Dixon Lead (Worked)

Second ascent.

John Redhead Lead (Did not finish)

John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it 'The Tormented Ejaculation'.

Neil Gresham Lead (Worked)

Third ascent.