The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook as follows:
It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
[1] Williams, Paul. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
10 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.
Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Johnny Dawes | Lead | worked | 4th Oct 1986 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE [2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA [3] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276 |
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Nick Dixon | Lead | worked | 1994 | |
Second ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756 |
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Neil Gresham | Lead | worked | 1994 | |
Third ascent.
Just days after Nick Dixon made the second ascent. |
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Dave MacLeod | Lead | worked | Jun 2010 | |
Fourth ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039 |
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Calum Muskett | Lead | worked | Jul 2013 | |
George Ulrich | Lead | worked | Jul 2013 | |
James McHaffie | Lead | worked | Jul 2013 | |
Angus Kille | Lead | worked | Jul 2018 | |
Morus Sanderson | Lead | worked | 25th Jul 2023 | |
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/morus_sanderson_climbs_indian_face_e9_6c-73423 |
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John Redhead | Lead | did not finish | ||
John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it The Tormented Ejaculation. John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off. |