Indian Face, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

E9 Trad climb

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clogwyn_dur_arddu_cloggy-457/indian_face-2171

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.

Media

Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes
Dave MacLeod

Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Johnny Dawes Lead (Worked) 04 Oct 1986

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276

Dave MacLeod Lead (Worked) 01 Jun 2010 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

James McHaffie Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205

George Ulrich Lead (Worked) 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213

Calum Muskett Lead (Worked) 11 Jul 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213

Angus Kille Lead (Worked) 01 Jul 2018 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/indian_face_e9_6c_by_angus_kille-71634

Nick Dixon Lead (Worked)

Second ascent.

John Redhead Lead (Did not finish)

John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it 'The Tormented Ejaculation'.

Neil Gresham Lead (Worked)

Third ascent.