Salathé Wall | 8a+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan

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First ascent. With Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.

First ascent. With Royal Robbins and Tom Frost.

13 bolts placed, mainly on the lower slabs.

First ascent. With Royal Robbins and Chuck Pratt.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CahGHKkNYcs/

With Doug Scott.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 15, page 12

With Peter Habeler.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 15, page 12

With Max Jones. All free bar 250' of climbing of which 100' had already gone free (the Jungle Pitch, which was wet). 5.12d climbing was cutting-edge at the time and unprecedented on a big wall.

References

[1] Mountain #79

[2] https://web.archive.org/web/20170213064201/http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe

First ascent. With Paul Piana.

First free ascent and a psychological breakthrough: the first time a route on the main face of El Capitan had been freed.

Climbed alternating hard leads with second jumaring and with the headwall split into three pitches.

First ascent. With Todd Skinner.

First free ascent.

Huber claimed this as the first free ascent as he led all the hard pitches. However he avoided the pitch above The Ear (8a) instead taking the Monster Offwidth. He climbed the headwall in two pitches taking a belay at a hands-off rest.

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/connor-herson-frees-5-13c-on-el-cap-its-not-the-salathe-if-you-do-the-monster-offwidth/

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199606700/Freeing-the-Salath-The-Greatest-Rock-Climb-in-the-World

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/pietro-dal-pra-the-mountain-from-all-perspectives.html

Yuji attempted to onsight Salathé Wall falling only three times, once on The Teflon Corner and then twice on The Headwall.

I put so much energy into this project. Every single minute was great. If I had to pick my best climbing moment, then I'd choose the Salathe on-sight attempt in 1997. This is my fondest memory so far in my entire climbing career. [1]

Hans Florine:

We ascended the route in two days as [Yuji] fought to onsight the route. If I recall correctly we made it to the teflon corner and a little beyond the first day. The second day Yuji threw himself at the head wall. An effort like this has not been done even in recent times despite all the traffic and beta on the route. For 1997 it was way off the charts, only the past 27 years confirms that. [2]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/yuji-hirayama-the-nose-big-walls-and-bouldering.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCTyllktwK7/?hl=en

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZueiGMv4x6w&ab_channel=narutokintoki

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7_3cISi-kA

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1bmDTu05xejaLMkjUkqdoL?

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/10/steph_davis_frees_the_salathe_wall-20848

[3] https://vimeo.com/69361561

With Dan McManus.

References

[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2014/05/salathe-wall.html