Divided Years | E9/8a+ Trad climb at Buzzard's Roost

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References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?si=3a0hFWT-Xbwoopyd&t=1993

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/08/birkett_repeats_divided_years-19542

Placing all gear on lead:

My big ambition was to make the first ascent placing all the gear on lead. John's ascent used a peg and a couple of pre-placed wires and Dave Birkett's second ascent last summer appeared (judging by the photos in the mags) to have several pieces in place at the crux. This was because the climbing is really steep and physical and it's difficult to stop in the middle of hard moves and fiddle in wires. The route had lots of wires in place in various states of decay. For me though, placing gear on lead is part of trad climbing, headpoint or not. The headpoint style is nothing more than a rehearsal for a ‘real’ lead. For me, if the gear is pre-placed then it might as well be bolted. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpe7bnNI7HP/

[2] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?t=762

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2006/07/divided-years.html

Ricky found the crucial pecker placement that now makes running it out through the hard section more feasible.

Simon [Moore] and I both fell a few times on the move into the crack after placing the crux wire. We both realized we didn't quite have the gas for the whole route but didn't want to sacrifice placing the gear on lead. Various attempts to gain stamina on the quick didn't quite work (3 red bulls and an aspirin) but we soon figured out that you could place a big bird beak or 'Simon's pecker' in the mono before the crux and then run it out through all the hard climbing leaving out the crux wire. It's not exactly the most inspiring looking bit of gear but it made the difference and occasionally got tested. I had the good fortune of going first yesterday and just about shuffled my way to the top. Si fell off on pretty much the last move before easy climbing. A move my mum could do in her bare feet! Not bad for someone who's last three routes are The Salathé Wall 2005, Mizen Star E2 at Fair Head 2008 and The French Route E2 (on second) Mourne Mountains 2008.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/divided_years_4th_ascent_-_ricky_bell-44788

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/06/eddie_barbour_climbs_divided_years_e89_6c-47707

Without doubt it’s one of the best single pitch routes, sport or trad, that I’ve ever done. It’s physically around 8a+, safe and straight-forward to get the gear in. The rock is immaculate and the moves are great. The climbing was a lot better than I expected with a lot of cool and varied moves. A great route with a great name.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/divided_years_e89_ground_up_-_mchaffie+pasquill-69801

[2] https://vimeo.com/187316913

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/divided_years_e89_ground_up_-_mchaffie+pasquill-69801

[2] https://vimeo.com/187316913

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BUe06JPFBZL/

[2] https://vimeo.com/326685819

The route I’ve most wanted to climb for a long, long time. 4 days, one day on a rope, and three from the ground. Hard, fell on the pecker a lot, felt pretty near my limit sportwise. Had basically given up the go before as well, I can still barely believe it!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzl9r0Qjfdf/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DLswgJ7Iofl/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OUt7W2xhGE

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DadDHM-sTKf/

[2] personal communication

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2026/07/robbie_phillips_flashes_divided_years_e9_6c-74177